Hi all, new (soon to be) owner here, picking up Tues a.m. Some questions I had been thinking of-

Oil changes: I like to do them generally, since I can use synthetic w/o paying the stealership price. Q: is the oil filter removal a messy affair? Would it be best to puncture the bottom of the can (after loosening it a bit of course) and letting it drain before removing it?

Tire rotations: I'd like to do them (weather permitting) - is owner resetting of the TPMS possible? Some badges it's "dealer only" $$. Some badges one can purchase an aftermarket reset tool. More $$.

General questions:

Is this engine timing chain (I hope?) I'm guessing it is because the 'regular' 2.4 is....

Is there a valve lash adjustment as required maintenance? Ah for the good old days of hydraulic self-adjusting....

Sparkplugs probably iridiums..?

How about tranny pan fluid changes - is this a simple drain and refill? I'm guessing not based on Toyota's other models.

I'm guessing also that the engine coolant is probaby long-life (pink) stuff not requiring early change.
------------------
We've had other Toyota's and they've easily been the least problematic for us versus other badges we've owned. We're really hoping that nothing major goes wrong with this technically complicated vehicle - we're getting the 7/100/0 Platinum ext. warranty just in case (thanks all for the pricing threads on that!).

Hoping the paint isn't as sensitive to chipping as so many have commented ....that thin clearcoat (groan).

 

Congratulations on your new car and welcome to the "club".


The only part on your questions that I can answer easily is concerning tire rotations:

If you're talking about just repositioning your tires: There is NO need to worry about resetting the TPMS. It's a pressure sensor inside the tire itself that sends its data (via RF) to the receiver in the car. Moving front-to-back has no impact. Unless you change the tire pressure due to running different settings front/rear, you won't even need to reset the TPMS switch (which is located inside the glove box), and you can do easily.

Now, if you're speaking about changing from one set of tires to another (you have a "normal" set and a "winter" set w/ separate rims & TPMS sensors), then you will need to go to the dealer to get the other set "re-registered" every time you swap them out. (The system will only remember one set at a time.)

Spark Plugs: ARE iridium tipped, replace: 120,000 miles (150,000 in CA, ME, MA, NY, VT).

Engine/Inverter Coolant: 100,000 Miles (again 150,000 in CA, ME, MA, NY, VT).

OK, I lied -- could answer 3 questions.

I hope this info helps.

 

Welcome! Hope you will enjoy your new car as much as I do.

Regarding oil changes: yes, removal of the filter could be messy because the oil remains pooled into it after draining the crankcase due to its horizontal mount. I never tried to puncture it but you should be able to do that (may take more time). I wear a disposable glove when I remove it and drop it directly into the pan under. Except for some oil on the glove there is no other mess. No valve adjustments should be necessary under normal operation for extended mileage/wear. And yes, of course, the engine better has a timing chain that should last the life of the car

 

How to change the transaxle fluid shown in the attachment

 

Thanks to all for this useful info. Am hoping for a great experience with this vehicle!

 

I am wondering why CA, ME has longer intervals for Sparkplugs and Coolant replacement.

Also, I am wondering if anything damaging could happen to the engine if the spark plugs are not replaced and one or more plugs go bad.

Thanks in advance.

 

(1) Probably a part of the CARB mandated minimums, i.e., "they MUST last this long" to qualify for CARB state emissions vs. "toyota recommends they be changed more frequently". A manufacturer can't tell the government one thing and then tell the consumer another.

(2) Yes. Bad plugs can cause misfires, which can cause detonation, which can cause engine damage. A FLASHING Check engine light indicates ACTIVE misfires. One should not drive it in this condition.

Plugs are made by NGK and Denso. You can buy the correct plugs cheap and install in 30 minutes. Probably run you about $50. No need to be cheap about it and push for longer runs.

In the instances I've seen the fancy "laser iridium" plugs (120K mile plugs) fail, they've had 200K or more miles on them... they just crap out at some point.