Engine belt replacement 07 TCH
#1
11-14-2014, 06:27 AM
Engine belt replacement 07 TCH
WHich is likely to be same for all models until they introduced electric water pump and belt is different.
Simple job that can be very frustrating.
New belt dealer $30 plus. Reason for replacement - crossed 100 000 miles. Time to do.
You'll need 14mm socket and 10 mm socket, regular and deep.
1. Remove upper 10mm bolt #1 on tensioner cover and LOOSEN lower #2 bolt. DO NOT drop #1 bolt. Swing cover back. Reason being, when you try to install new belt, and move tensioner all the way towards the firewall, cover blocks movement. Hits something on engine.
2. Slide 14mm box wrench or socket wrench onto the 14mm tensioner bolt and turn bolt all the way towards firewall. Slip belt off tensioner.
3. Now you have 2 choices. Have a helper, remove the pass side wheel, fender cover, and have someone help you from the bottom or, simply slide your hand into the gap available and do it from the top. If you have low level of patience, get helper.
Here's fair warning:
See circled stud? It's ideally located to be grabbed by belt and prevent belt from going around tensioner, as then it's too short. Make sure it is bypassed.
4. Start with belt non ribbed side against the water pump pulley, down around crankshaft pulley and up around idler. I have rather thick forearm but - after about 40 minutes of cussing - I did manage to do this.
I used left arm in the gap and right hand providing CONTINUOUS tension up on the belt, so that it does not slip off.
5. Belt should end up about half way onto the tensioner pulley. Turn tensioner towards the firewall and install belt.
6. Re install cover. Upper bolt is tiny and hole is now covered by belt, so it's a PITA. Do NOT drop the bolt, unless you plenty of them.
7. CHECK BELT PROPER POSITION TEN TIMES before deciding you done.
8. Be prepared for your arm to look like this:
Simple job that can be very frustrating.
New belt dealer $30 plus. Reason for replacement - crossed 100 000 miles. Time to do.
You'll need 14mm socket and 10 mm socket, regular and deep.
1. Remove upper 10mm bolt #1 on tensioner cover and LOOSEN lower #2 bolt. DO NOT drop #1 bolt. Swing cover back. Reason being, when you try to install new belt, and move tensioner all the way towards the firewall, cover blocks movement. Hits something on engine.
2. Slide 14mm box wrench or socket wrench onto the 14mm tensioner bolt and turn bolt all the way towards firewall. Slip belt off tensioner.
3. Now you have 2 choices. Have a helper, remove the pass side wheel, fender cover, and have someone help you from the bottom or, simply slide your hand into the gap available and do it from the top. If you have low level of patience, get helper.
Here's fair warning:
See circled stud? It's ideally located to be grabbed by belt and prevent belt from going around tensioner, as then it's too short. Make sure it is bypassed.
4. Start with belt non ribbed side against the water pump pulley, down around crankshaft pulley and up around idler. I have rather thick forearm but - after about 40 minutes of cussing - I did manage to do this.
I used left arm in the gap and right hand providing CONTINUOUS tension up on the belt, so that it does not slip off.
5. Belt should end up about half way onto the tensioner pulley. Turn tensioner towards the firewall and install belt.
6. Re install cover. Upper bolt is tiny and hole is now covered by belt, so it's a PITA. Do NOT drop the bolt, unless you plenty of them.
7. CHECK BELT PROPER POSITION TEN TIMES before deciding you done.
8. Be prepared for your arm to look like this:
#4
11-15-2014, 07:45 AM
Re: Engine belt replacement 07 TCH
Drove her yesterday, all's fine. Amazing, how much frustration such a simple job can give you. Reminded me of air filter change on same car. I spent 1.5 hr re-aligning lid screws back together. Did filter cleaning about 2 months ago (it's K&N) and same screws slid right back where they belong. What can I say...
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