Does anyone know how to interpret the graduations on the temperature gauge in terms of degrees F ?

Perhaps someone with a Scangauge could provide the interpretation.

Thanks for any help !

 

This may be close, using my ScanGauge. 1/4 scale is around 135F degrees. Normal or 40/45% scale is around 185/195 degrees.

I will try to have a closer look tomorrow.

 

This has been discussed a couple of times over the years. Apparently from testing the temp guage does not necessarily always move in proportion to the actual temp of the engine but is a digital interpretation, especially in the area of normal engine temps. The suggestion/finding was that the 1st mark below halfway represents the normal operating temp range beginning at 60C or 140F. The temp guage will not move, but will stay at that mark as long as the engine is in normal operating temp range, even as the temps might increase beyond 140F. The assumption was that the guage will only move higher if something (ICE coolant or inverter coolant?) actually begins to exceed normal operating temps.

I've not heard anyone yet report the symptoms of an overheat condition in this car to confirm...

 

Thanks to both Jimmy and Andy for the info.

We have somewhat inconsistent info at this point.

Jimmy: Thanks in advance for any additional data you can provide.

 

The best I can come up with is it's probably a 280F max reading gauge. Looks like the cold dark blue area is from 0 to 100 degrees.

Straight up and down should be 200 degrees. Each mark above half way looks to be 20 degrees. About the only two places I ever see the temp gauge is 135/137F degrees which is about 1/4 scale. The other is 180/190F which is about 45% of the scale. Temperature readings are from the scangauge.

 

I have one of these infrared Thermometer that has been handy for a number things around the house. If you what to know the real temp use this...

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...yword=infrared

I hope this helps...

 

Jimmy,

Thanks very much for the info, but excuse me if I still don't have it straight.

There are 11 graduations from the cold white needle mark to the red hot needle mark.

Calling white cold needle mark = zero, mid blue zone mark = 1, top of blue zone mark = 2, red thin mark = 10 and red hot needle mark = 11:

Dead cold engine (even at at 70 F ambient) is still well below mark zero.

Mark zero seems to be at least 80F

Mark 2 is 100F (per your info) ???????????

Mark 3 would be "about" quarter scale (135/137F per your info) ?

Mark 5 seems to be consistently normal operating temperature (and 5 marks out of 11 is about 45% or 180/190F per your info).

With mark 5 at 180F, 20F per mark would bring it to 280F at mark 10 (the thin red line) an 300F at mark 11 (top of the scale)

Also with mark 5 at 180F, 20F per mark would bring it to
140F at mark 3, pretty consistent with your 135/137F at about 25% scale
120F at mark 2, a little high vs your info of 100F
100F at mark 1, one mark off of your info
80F at mark zero, consistent with my guess.

Please comment on or improve my take on this.

 

Bill:

Thanks.

I had no idea these were available so cheap.

May look into it. Would be very useful for many things !!

But, here, I was most interested in how to interpret the gauge in order to find our what the car thinks it's engine temperature is.

 

I decided to snap a picture for a better view of the gauge. The gauge is definitely tapered, especially above half scale.

I see 5 lines or spaces to the 190 degree mark where it is now.
Each space would be 38 degrees. 5 x 38 = 190

Between the 190 and approx 300/305 max hot degrees, they are 6 more spaces.
I get 18.33 degrees each above the 190 reading. 18.33 x 6 = 110 degrees.

Using the 18.33 degrees per mark, my frequent 135 warm up degrees. That would be between line 3 and 4.

Takes somebody better than me to figure those taper numbers. Who knows, this still could be a 250, 260 or 280 max reading gauge.

click picture for the large view.

 

Jimmy, you took this picture while driving????!! Why?