I have disassembled and reassembled a 2007 Toyota Camry hybrid battery after getting the check hybrid battery system warning.

One cell was bad reading 6.5v. Is that enough to cause the check hybrid light to come on? I replaced the bad cell.

I have put everything back together. The dash lights up, the check hybrid light is continuously and the car won't start. I says to depress the brake. I've read the existing posts on this condition. I tried removing the fuse suggested but its in there good. I released the tiny clip at the side but still won't budge even with pliers. Any suggestions except brute force?

Can someone tell me where to land the connector in the photograph. The videos I've seen don's show it. I have landed it on the main terminal connecting the black wires which seems to be only place it can go.

 

Under the case nut




Are you sure you plugged in the connectors to the battery ECU under the relay?

Lots of connectors to overlook.

 

 

Okay, you asked where it goes, and I circled the spot... let's try again... You're holding a ring terminal in the first picture. That needs to go under the nut I circled. Period.

If your 12V is reading 10.2V, it's dead, dead, dead. It needs to be charged.

There are multiple faults which will prevent you from getting the car in neutral. You've found at least one.

Hopefully, it's the orange ring terminal you've put in the wrong place. That is supposed to be to chassis ground, but you have it to the isolated terminal.

 

 

7.8V means nothing. I've tested about 160 batteries, and the only things voltage tell you are:

1) Bad
2) maybe good

I tested a 2010 prius a couple months back. All voltages were 7.99 to 8.05. 18 of the 28 modules needed to be replaced for an okay DIY job. 3 were good for something I'd put a warranty on.

Be ready to repeat this every 3-6 months.

12V didn't cause the low voltage module. It was bad. 12V can usually be jumped, but a bad 12V in a hybrid wreaks havoc.

Did you tighten all 68 terminal nuts to 48 in-lb?

 

Can you post a photograph or direct me to one for the "connectors to the battery ECU under the relay?" I am going to open it back up, torque the nuts as instructed and check for the connector you mentioned.

I tested the modules using the device below and got from 7.8v to 7.4v with a 40 amps load for 2 minutes exactly. I should have been checking for more minute differences in voltage.

I bought this scanner. the price difference from this to the next one up is $100 but it includes battery reset features. Are battery reset features important/critical or is that not related to hybrid batteries?

 

The battery ECU is under the black relay. If you remove the black relay, you will see it. You will see plugs in it, or you won't.

40A load? You have not posted a picture of anything that will put a 40A load on a module. If you're referring to the device with a light bulb, no. That might pull 3A.

If you're saying:

You applied a 3A load to each module with the light bulb.
After 2 minutes, you recorded the loaded voltage and terminated the load.
You saw results between 7.4V and 7.8V

Then your battery is a **** show. If 7.8V was your high, anything below 7.7, maybe 7.65 is bad.

3A on a module that can deliver 150A current is a bit of a joke.

I know nothing about that code reader, and your pictures are so small, I can't make out any detail. I suspect it's mostly worthless for your purposes. Whatever codes are available, they are not readable by that reader.

The term "battery reset" is meaningless. Disconnecting the 12V battery resets ALL the computers in the car (something like 18 of them).

 

I tested each battery under a 4.5 amp load based on a 55w lightbulb for 2 minutes.

All batteries started at 7.8 (With the exception of the one I replaced which started at 6.5 volts) and finished at 7.4 I'll set the multimeter to 100th of a volt next time to get more accurate values.

Take a look at the following product page
https://hybridautomotive.com/pages/lt

Ok. At 4.5 amps load for two minutes what do you consider bad and should be replaced?

I have opened the battery back up. I see two connectors under the black relay (assuming the two black wires connected above the main connections to the battery is the right location) but I also see two spots where a connector looks like it could fit. Are all the plugs I need in or are there plugs for the two additional spots. I don't see any more plugs in the cable assemblies. Is there wiring that should come from within the battery?

I'll **** can the tester. thx.

 

The bulb is 60W @ 12V. At 7.5V it's less. You probably got about 3-3.5A out of it.

If all the modules were within 0.1V, they pass that test; however, that sort of test will only catch gross outliers. It tells you nothing of their capacity - only how they respond to a light load.

As much as we've discussed the ECU under the relay, I'm kinda surprised you didn't include a picture of that.