The ECU is plugged in.

I am going to conduct the load capacity testing. Can I use the tester I have to do the capacity testing? At the load of the bulb I have how should I capacity test each module? And what is a good module

Then I'll torque the nuts.

I'll also check the relay in the fuse box and charge the 12v battery.

Anything else simple I can try to get the thing started?

 

The ring terminal installation issue distracted me from the usual first step...

Are you 1000% certain that you installed the safety plug correctly? It's a THREE step process:

1) insert plug.
2) push in and rotate the lever up.
3) slide the lever down to engage the interlock circuit.

To your other question(s);

Sure, the bulb would be fine for capacity, but you need to sit there and babysit it until it reaches 6.00V. You would literally have to sit there for 0.5-1.5hr per module or at least check it VERY frequently to ensure you don't dip much below 6.00V. Do you have a spare 17-51 hours?

 

Yeah the safety plug is in correctly.

Thanks for your help. I'll post again in 17-51 hours.

 

TL;DR

1) replace 12V battery
2) check for leaks
3) Tow to dealership to have codes read properly

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If your goal is to get your car operational, I give you 0% chance of success following capacity testing.

Frankly, something else is wrong. There may be issues with the rebuild, but a battery with multiple failed modules will still enable ready mode.

First, you need to insure your 12V system is 100% healthy. That likely means you need a new 12V battery.

Second, did you check for any leaking modules? Are you 100% sure the replacement module is good and not leaking? Leaks frequently can't be detected visually. To confirm this, remove safety plug and set your voltmeter on a > 300VDC setting and check for voltage between each battery lead and the case. You should measure either 0V or a voltage that bleeds down fairly rapidly. If it holds a voltage, you have a leaking module. If it counts down to <1V, repeat test with the safety plug installed with the same criteria. if both tests bleed down to < 1V, you likely don't have a leaking module.

Lastly, your car is sitting there ready and willing to tell you what's wrong. You simply need to read the codes. However, this requires that your 12V is fully operational. Your best option is to tow it to the dealership, pay the $110 and get your answer.

You can keep taking shots in the dark, or you can try to follow a sensible diagnostic procedure.

 

How many miles on the car? Battery failure.. Interested to know.

 

198k on the vehicle. I replaced the $310 12v battery. but no ready light. I am going to follow your advice and take the hybrid battery apart again to check for leaks. I'll post a bunch of photographs. Maybe you can see something else wrong during the process.

 

With an assembled battery, You check for leaks as follows:

Safety plug out
Multimeter on VDC Auto or 300VDC (or higher) setting:
Check for voltage between negative cable and case
Check for voltage between positive cable and case

Both cables may be probed as they are plugged into the relay by inserting your probe into the connector along the cable until you contact the crimped terminal.

Typically, you will get voltage that rapidly bleeds down to near zero - at least under 1V. If either holds voltage, you have a leaking module.

If both bleed down, install safety plug and repeat on both terminals.