Replacing stabilizer bar end links
#1
03-24-2013, 07:21 PM
Replacing stabilizer bar end links
After I rented 2013 conventional Camry, I just could not get over how nicely she corners, how level stays, without any body roll. Mine started rolling some in tight corners, so I changed sway, or stabilizer bar, end links. At 85 000 miles.
Improvement was immediate. She stays flat doing 50 in 90 degree turn. Overall, ride became stiffer, car feels much tighter. I shall replace rear ones next.
General opinion on OEM end link is - they suck. Light they are, but ball joints are stamped metal, and ball is retained in place by edge rolled inward. ***** are tiny for the car.
You are supposed to have 6-17 inch pounds resistance from stud, should you try to turn it, at the 5th turn. That's what Haynes says. I could spin mine by fingers with almost no resistance.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbSN...ature=youtu.be
Start with jackstanding the car safely:
IMG_1458_zpsf53088b8.jpg
remove wheel. Here're upper and lower end link studs:
IMG_1459_zpsabc9d3fe.jpg
IMG_1460_zps6e7d35f5.jpg
Nuts were very snug on both sides, I had to use breaker pipe to loosen them. Once loosened, they spin by hand. 17mm deep socket.
IMG_1464_zps7d373fc2.jpg
If stud starts spinning with the nut, back it with 19mm open end wrench
IMG_1466_zps2cd6887d.jpg
IMG_1465_zpsdb4bd4ae.jpg
Due to sway bar spring action, stud can get torqued in the bar or in the shock strut. I used pry bar to lower it which ever way necessary, jammed the way you see:
IMG_1463_zps20be825b.jpg
Before installing new end links, install zirks that come with the new end link(if you opt for what I had. Moog end links, $9 each. Half dealership price). Zirks simply screw self tap in, using firm pressure on the head down and 10mm open end wrench
IMG_1461_zps04b14a1e.jpg
Pump ball joints with good grease ( I use GM grease with PTFC)
IMG_1462_zps63d1ba3f.jpg
Studs on ne end links have pinch nuts. Stud has to be backed, to prevent from spinning. Mine are 18mm, both nut and back up nut:
IMG_1467_zps3080513a.jpg
End here you go, new end link installed.
Overall complexity 2 out of ten, only because I had to use breaker bar and pry bar. Time roughly 20 minutes each side.
Will do rear ones next week, will post.
Improvement was immediate. She stays flat doing 50 in 90 degree turn. Overall, ride became stiffer, car feels much tighter. I shall replace rear ones next.
General opinion on OEM end link is - they suck. Light they are, but ball joints are stamped metal, and ball is retained in place by edge rolled inward. ***** are tiny for the car.
You are supposed to have 6-17 inch pounds resistance from stud, should you try to turn it, at the 5th turn. That's what Haynes says. I could spin mine by fingers with almost no resistance.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbSN...ature=youtu.be
Start with jackstanding the car safely:
IMG_1458_zpsf53088b8.jpg
remove wheel. Here're upper and lower end link studs:
IMG_1459_zpsabc9d3fe.jpg
IMG_1460_zps6e7d35f5.jpg
Nuts were very snug on both sides, I had to use breaker pipe to loosen them. Once loosened, they spin by hand. 17mm deep socket.
IMG_1464_zps7d373fc2.jpg
If stud starts spinning with the nut, back it with 19mm open end wrench
IMG_1466_zps2cd6887d.jpg
IMG_1465_zpsdb4bd4ae.jpg
Due to sway bar spring action, stud can get torqued in the bar or in the shock strut. I used pry bar to lower it which ever way necessary, jammed the way you see:
IMG_1463_zps20be825b.jpg
Before installing new end links, install zirks that come with the new end link(if you opt for what I had. Moog end links, $9 each. Half dealership price). Zirks simply screw self tap in, using firm pressure on the head down and 10mm open end wrench
IMG_1461_zps04b14a1e.jpg
Pump ball joints with good grease ( I use GM grease with PTFC)
IMG_1462_zps63d1ba3f.jpg
Studs on ne end links have pinch nuts. Stud has to be backed, to prevent from spinning. Mine are 18mm, both nut and back up nut:
IMG_1467_zps3080513a.jpg
End here you go, new end link installed.
Overall complexity 2 out of ten, only because I had to use breaker bar and pry bar. Time roughly 20 minutes each side.
Will do rear ones next week, will post.
Last edited by ukrkoz; 03-25-2013 at 08:25 AM.
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