So the auto trans has a limp home mode that can propel the car in the event of an electrical failure. The trans oil pump populates the trans clutches and at around 3,000rpm the car starts to pull its weight and accelerate. You can unplug the transmission computer and still move the car at 25mph limping home or away from traffic.

The auto shifter selector should be in Park so the key will come out of the ignition. The auto trans range switch is unbolted from the auto but not unplugged from the harness. The same is done for the 4 speed sensor so far. There are 2 plugs at the front of the auto that are just unplugged. B22 is speed sensor output from the auto computer. B22 is directly connect to the speedometer and I havent completed the sensor conversion yet but it looks possible.

The auto comes out after the subframe and the intermediate shaft and both cv driveshafts. aka axles. the axles on the auto and manual are the same but the intermediate shafts are not the same. look up the part numbers from a parts dealer. the passenger side axle can be separated from the intermediate shaft by using a 19 or 20mm socket as a wedge to hammer and separate the parts. youtube has a good vid of cv to intermediate separation. the junkyard where i purchased the trans wanted to sell the axles along with the intermediate because they said "we cant separate 'um" which is their way of getting an extra $70 and i gladly forked over the cash.

There are two transmission mounts on the auto subframe. They both line up with the manual trans. The upper mount does not! I drilled the threads out of the already attached manual mount to a half inch diameter. I saws-alled the threaded side thinning it for extra bolt penetration for usable threading. The manual trans from the junkyard came with extra trans bolts. I used these along with some shackles from tractorsupply that were 3 1/8th to link the two mounts. This is just a temporary mounting link until i find half inch id mild steel tubing to fab on.

The 4 shifter bolts match. the firewall viewed from the inside has the pattern for drilling 3 holes for the clutch master cylinder. A bit of black rubber covers this and is precut for easy removal. The clutch pedal almost rubs the huge brake pedal and i'll take a grinder to it. The black foot rest must be removed. There is an auto shifter micro switch that needs to be unplugged in order to take the key out of the ignition. the micro switch circuit is open in park and closed in other position. unplugging leaves it open.

I've deleted all the IMA crap and replaced my ac compressor with an alternator. Its a 70amp out of a '95 tercel and i used a 61inch belt. the oem 63.5 is too long. The plugs middle red wire needs 12v ignition and the car idles at 750rpm producing 14.3v. Those dc-dc converters needed 1700rpm which is blatant planned-failure-engineering by honda. SHAME on you honda!

More updates soon.

 

Do you have some more updates? I was also thinking, if it was possible to install alternator in this car (so I can bypass the IMA battery and its problems).

 

i sold the car months ago and its still living in north north carolina somewhere. it was sold to a coworker's son so i get updates if i ask. this was a fun project and i'd do it again in a heartbeat.

 

I managed to fix the IMA battery, so I didn't need to take any alternatives then. Anyway, thanks for the reply.