Hello. I have a problem similar to many members. I own a 2004 HCH with just over 164,000 miles. My IMA light recently came on. I took it into the dealer this weekend. They charged me $90 for diagnostic and told me that my Battery Module needed replacing. $2800 plus tax! I seem to recall they may have installed the software update a while back and charged me a fee for that as well if my memory serves me right. They did not give me the error codes but my neighbor read them for me.

I have a P1600 system code along with P1433 (Battery Module Deterioration) and P1575 (Motor Power Inverter -MPI- Modudle Voltage Problem).

I also opened the IMA up to take a peak. Nothing unusual stood out like another member reported with the chaffed harness.

There are 3 options:

1. Recondition the existing battery module (Median cost)
2. Replace the battery module with a used/salvaged one (Least costly)
3. Replace with a NEW module. (Most costly)

I'm concerned about a USED/Salvages pack because I do not know how long the module has set uncharged before I receive it. I'm concerned about RECONDITIONING because how long will it go before some other cells fail and I'm back to sqaure one after paying $1000-1200 to recondition.

I may be leaning toward a new module and biting the bullet however it seems like the price is still too high but I have had good luck out of this pack. I did buy the car used about 4 years ago and I've put more than half of the miles on it since then.

Any thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated!

 

I was going to post a similar question. My IMA came on tonight, P1600 and P1433 (had it read at Advanced Auto). I do not have the P1575 code. My question is, how long have some of you folks on here who have this problem been driving with the issue but not repairing it?

I know there are probably at least several people on this forum with the same problem, I just want to know how long I have before it becomes a possible fire hazard (biggest concern), if that's even plausible. I don't really care to replace it, as the CVT is about toasted as well (growl on take off from stop) and I'll be replacing the entire drivetrain without the IMA system with one from another '03-'05 gasser once the trans is done.

I had other codes also (the classic P2000 cat code that I'm not shelling out a grand to fix because I don't have to deal with smog testing, and P0521 oil pressure switch, $10 fix), but neither are as concerning as the IMA codes. I know there's several people out there that are kind of forced into a corner to fix the catalytic converter issue, but $1,000~ to fix it because Honda programmed it to run a little too lean from the factory and toasting the cat(s) is just insult to injury. I've been running around with mine supposedly needing replacement for 20k+ miles and it hasn't affected how the engine runs one bit.

 

The P1600 is the IMA system malfuntion. The P1575 is hidden down in another module so if they just read the IMA module, you may not have seen that one, only the P1433. As to how long, I've been driving for 2 weeks now with the IMA light on. I've noticed a few oddities with the IMA battery meter, but other than that no issues. I turned off my A/C and my mileage has actually increased. IMA battery seems to be charging still.

I had the same growl and the dealership did the burnishing routine and flush on the CVT fluid. That has helped on takeoff from a stop. No more shuddering and growling. Cost about $200.

I am looking into alternatives to replacing it. I may go the rebuild routed. Seems plausible and much less expensive (1/3 the cost).

 

Hi,

I'm a newbie here and have a 2004 HCH Manual that just turned over 85,000 miles. I bought the car in 2006 with 53,000 miles, from a local Honda Certified Used Car dealer. The car has seen mostly urban driving cycles the past 2 years, with the occasional bi-monthly highway trip. A/C does see seasonal use in May-Sept.

On a side note: I recently replaced the under-hood 12V battery (this was NOT really necessary, I just wanted the peace-of mind with winter fast approaching),

And as far as I know the IMA (144V) battery module has never been replaced. The car performs well and typically gets an indicated 38 - 42 mpg in city use and close to 50 mpg highway. (We do live at 5000 ft ASL, which reduces mileage and power.)

About a week ago the IMA and CHECK Engine lights came on. (P1600 and P1433). At the time they come on the SoC dropped from 75% to roughly half that. Throttle response becomes noticeably sluggish, but the REGen/ASSist meter still works. And the SoC gradually moves up and down. The most I have seen it come back to is about 67 % when the codes are thrown.

When I clear the codes, I observe the following: REGen/ASSist immediately at idle shows (GREEN) charge and the SoC rapidly comes up to 100% within a couple of minutes. When the car is driven, throttle response is crisp and instrumentation shows "like-new" REGen/ASSist and SoC behavior in urban driving.

Then, usually with a day or so (usually less than 20-miles) the same codes return (P1600/P1433).

To the best of knowledge, the ECM has NOT been re-flashed or "Upgraded" by Honda.

1) Is there a way to determine the ECM Version level?

2) If Honda flashes the ECM, will it potentially mask the P1433 code? Making them less likely to replace the IMA battery of DC-DC converter under warranty?

3) What is actually happening when the P1433 code is thrown? It seems to put the system into "LIMP" or "LAME" mode?

4) Does anyone have experience with Honda's Certified Used Car Warranty or Third-Party Warranties, with respect to IMA failures?

Any advice (or dare I say Insights?) would be greatly appreciated.

Lee

 

Lee,

I have no experience with the warranty or how the dealer would respond. I do not believe the ECM reflash would have any effect on the P1433 code being displayed. I know there have been some comments made about Honda trying to cover up the issue but I personally do not believe it. I would try to get it into service ASAP and attempt to get Honda to replace the pack under warranty. It's likely you could get them to cover it even though you have 85K miles (5K over the warranty on the IMA battery) especially since it's a certified used Honda. If not covered under warranty, you can expect to pay $3000-$4000 for the dealer to install a refurbished battery for you. You can do it yourself with significant savings, but it's a very lengthy process!

As for the codes, the P1600 is the IMA system Malfunction code. The P1433 is the Battery Module Deterioration. This basically means at least one of the 20 battery subpacks has an issue. There may be one or multiple cells in the stick that have overheated and are not discharging/charging as expected and this can cause the entire stick to be diminished. One bad apple can ruin the whole bushel!

Your experience with the IMA light and the SoC meter changes are typical. I've noticed the same thing. The car will more often recharge the IMA battery more often when the battery level gets down to about 50% or so and force it to fully charge. You should not notice any major change in performance unless the battery level gets really low. Try to keep it as close to fully charged as possible until you get it replaced or resolved.

 

I just got P0521, P1600, and P1433 a few days ago too. Not looking forward to replacing the batteries.

However, I also noticed my MPG skyrocketed from 32 to 42MPG since the lights came on. Heck I don't even WANT to get the battery fixed if I get a serious boost in efficiency.

Makes me wonder though... Has the battery been dragging down my fuel efficiency alll these years? I bought the car new in 2004 and had that software update a few years after that dropped my MPG form 38 to 33. That would have suuuucked.

Unfortunately I live in California, so I'll have to repair the battery before I can smog it. Isn't that a kicker; I lose my newfound +10MPG fuel efficiency due to smog regulation...

 

Are you sure about that? I live in CA as well but brought my car used from Honda about 3 years ago and was told I do not have to smog a hybrid car. I have not received a smog notice from DMV either.

Quick Google search turned this up
http://www.bar.ca.gov/80_BARResource...ng/hybrid.html

 

Oh you are right! I just went through my archives and never had to smog that car yet. I guess I sort of pre-dreaded smogging because it has been such a pain for my other cars this year. Haha

 

Joining the list of pissed off IMA lighters. I just hit 110000 on my 2005 gen 1, I've been getting awful mileage for several months (maybe even 2 years), about 34 mpg city, so I knew something was wrong. IMA light is on, usual suspect codes. Tried resetting, but whenever the battery gets about halfway down, the code comes back. I think I had a weak 12v battery, needed a jump when I left a dome light on. Left the car in a parking lot over vacation, and the IMA lamp lit driving to work the next day. Replaced the 12v, but light keeps coming back.

Question, I see the warranty is 150000 mile in NY. I'm in MD, but "what if" I gave my car to my Dad in upstate, got it registered up there (about $200), and brought it in for repair up there? Would Honda do that?

 

Hi all,

I have a 2004 gen1 civic that has slightly over 200k miles and has been taken to the dealer, diagnosed as a 1433 IMA code and estimate given for the replacement of the battery ($3200)

Since the car is only worth $1850 in fair condition, I decided that I would consider my options...

I alternately, thought that
- I would just replace the battery pack with a new one... I got two prices from dealers online and my low number was $2200 + shipping $450. Two week lead time...

-Or go the route of purchasing a salvaged module (controller, battery, and computer management system - $1100) BTW most salvage yards don't just have these. You should consider a larger salvage yard or a parts locator service. $$$???

I researched the removal / install online and found a video on YouTube
(video is available on YouTube for this)
I searched keywords


2004 civic hybrid battery IMA problem


I spent an afternoon removing the old module and replacing the newly salvaged one - 5.5 hrs. The job can be handled with mid level handyman skills with a strong emphasis on electrical safety.

In removing the IMA battery I must disconnect the 12v battery to disconnect the power supply to the car / battery module; the IMA light was off when I restarted the car...

My wife drove the car for three days after this job with no problems. She noticed the drive system had more power than it had in awhile. She also noticed that the battery charge was fluctuating between high and low charge readings.

I had the car inspected for emissions in PA and it failed. Mechanic says it's still reading an IMA code.

Still undaunted, I have considered the 12v battery for the engine. I had it checked at AutoZone for free and the battery was bad. I replaced it with a two year (better) battery - $90 and drove it for 50 miles and the IMA light was back on.

I then drove for an additional 85 miles the next day hoping the light goes out with more coding being sent to the car...

I am now faced with driving an un-inspected fuel efficient car (40.3 mpg) that wouldn't pass a Pa State inspection station test...



This is a lot to digest but I hope with this info it could help others with the same problem
=MPH