I bought a used battery for my 2005 and installed it. When I turn key on, it shows 148v and then a second later it clicks and drops immediately (I do have a video of it if needed). I put my junction on the pack and had the same results. I did notice the replacement battery has what appears to be a fuse which my original does not have but I am uncertain what it is. Searched pretty heavily to no avail. Circled in red on picture I found. Thanks in advance.

 

Picture isn't particularly clear, is small, and there is no detail of the component in question, which looks more like a connector than a fuse.

More importantly, you haven't reported what your error codes are.

What color are the sticks inside the case?

 

I will get a better pic of the fuse or whatever it is. It has "16" on it. Again, it is the only unique feature of the OEM pack.

I put the original battery back in but prior to removing the one that turns off I believe the code was P1600. The original battery has been in the car since 2005 when I bought it new and never changed. I used the MaxxVolts for about the last year and it has 310K miles on the pack. I bought a used one to change it out and it would not stay on. I have it taken apart and plan to recondition the sticks and place into the old unit soon as charger arrives (considering Dynamite Prophet Sport Quad ). The sticks are all orange and showing about 7.5 volts except 2 are at 7.0V.

I rebuilt front end among other things and hope to keep the old girl on the road to 500K. All depends on the recondition. Original engine and CVT.

Thanks

 

Better picture of component in question (item with the 16 on it).

 

That may be a 16Ω resistor for bypassing the PTC circuit though your sticks clearly have the PTC strips (green strip with ring terminal on each stick).

Sometime in the 2004 MY, they deleted the PTC circuit. As a result, the '05 won't work with a pack with an intact PTC circuit, or a simulated one (the resistor). It must be an open circuit.

Check your original pack. Can you see those green strips with ring terminals, or does the red wire that snakes along the orange end plate have 1" cut out of it (or it may be completely absent)? Does the "new" pack have the red wire cut?

 

Thanks. I figured that could be the culprit since the 16Ω resistor was not present on the original pack. Wife is driving car today but I will pull battery later this week and get back to you but that would explain why it would not work in 2005. Only pic I have of og pack is fuzzy.. Thanks again

 

Again, get the codes checked. I can't place sufficient emphasis on the need to check the codes. Most cheap consumer grade OBDII readers are insufficient for the task of diagnosing a hybrid. To that end, I recommend O'Reilly Auto Parts. They use Bosch brand code readers that are exceptionally effective at reading hybrid related codes that are NOT typically detected by your average consumer code reader. They will check codes for free. While their readers are great, they're subject to operator error, so make sure you get the actual CODES.

I recommend you install the "new" pack and take a drive to O'Reilly for a code check. That single effort can save many hours of thrashing around in uncertainty and multiple pack removal and installs.

 

Okay, I have the battery out, junction off and it appears the wire is not cut. Also, I see the same PTC strips. After reading the plethora of articles and posts (in which most you contributed), I would have thought it would be cut or no strips. No triangle sticker in door jamb as mentioned in one post (for flash). No idea what flashes were done but I know Honda did do some. Not sure which. Cat Converter comes to mind.

I was thinking if I cut the wire on the 2003 IMA it should work but there is still the resistor inline. I have a balance charger so I am testing those batteries now. Thanks



Again, this is the original IMA with 310K.

See pics to follow.

Thanks again for all your insight.

 

To show PTC etc. on 2005 IMA.

 

I've made an assumption the PTC circuit is the issue, and I've made an assumption that the added component is a 16Ω resistor. I am going completely on your input.

I've repeatedly indicated the critical nature of getting all the codes read, which I have yet to see you produce. P1600 never occurs alone. P1600 is basically "IMA light on because there's an IMA system problem." The replacement battery could simply be garbage, and that's why it didn't work.

I would not cut any wires without understanding more. I wouldn't do ANYTHING until I get the codes read. If you're using a cheap OBDII reader, you can't count on it. Get thee to O'Reilly and have them use their Bosch brand code readers.

EDIT: Good luck with your "balance" charger. I assume you're referring to some label on it. There's only 1 way to "balance" NiMH batteries:

1) discharge to 1V/cell
2) charge at 0.1C (0.65A) max for 16 hours or a lower current/time combination that totals 10,400mAh input.

Battery is now "balanced" with all cells at 100% SoC - the only place you can balance NiMH cells in series.