Made sure to get one that was pretty highly recommended on different sites and also on Amazon so that anything the ECU would put out there to be read -- could be read.


But, turns out most of the things in Torque Pro the HCH1 ECU doesn't put out there. (*such as Hybrid battery SoC )

I would be curious to know what the computer is *thinking* because the SoC isn't the full picture. The day my batt officially went south the SoC was at 1 or 2 under 100% but the car began charging it while climbing a substantial hill.
Obviously the BCU didn't *really* think it was near full charge or it wouldn't have been trying to charge it!
But at any rate, any insight into whats going in here was a bust.


Something I did find interesting though was the Air/Fuel ratio gauge.
It hangs out around 14.7 under most driving, deceleration it goes into open loop and probably cuts off the fuel (torque says its being told the ratio under decel is 29.4)
But in rare circumstances, typically with the throttle under 20% and speed above 30 but below 65, it kicks up to 20-22. I imagine this is the lean burn operating mode which Honda claimed the car could operate in up to 60% of driving time. Oddly I haven't yet observed it at idle -- could've sworn I read that Honda set the motors to lean idle... though thinking about it, I must be mistaken because when running properly the ICE isn't running at idle.

I tried to pull Commanded A/F ratio in the hopes of comparing (and maybe getting an idea what state my oxygen sensor is in) but another bust, actual only.


Anybody else used an OBD2 scanner with one of these cars?
What guages did you all find the most useful?

 

If you want to get something that reads limited IMA information, you need OBDIIC&C for HCH1 by Peter Perkins.

G1 Insight and HCH1 do NOT report tap voltages in any way, shape or form.

I have HDS (Honda Diagnostic System), and it doesn't even report it to HDS.

The only way to get tap information is to deploy your own voltage monitoring system.

 

So much for Honda being a company friendly to enthusiasts huh...
ugh...


Thanks for the heads up on the other solution... too rich for my blood. (249 according to https://www.greenhybrid.com/forums/f...h1-only-29323/ )

I don't wish to dive in deep enough to develop my own system... been a while since those electronic engineering classes heh..

 

Hi,
I'm also a newbie who just picked up an OBD2 scanner. Whcih gave the following codes for the check engine light.
U0100 - Lost Communication with ECM/PCM "A"
P0AE1 - Hybrid Battery Precharge Connector Circuit

I have cleared the codes, and car was driving well last night (for 30 mins, 10 miles)...
Just on the background., in case this is related, The car recently gave the IMA light, and entered limp mode and also the engine shut itself off (I'm assuming this was all battery related)
However, I turned the IMA off and drove the car about 30 miles, and since turning it back on the IMA light has gone (weird)

However, if you could please help me interpret the meaning of these codes that would be great, I'm assuming that a faulty ECM would cause major issues for the cars electronics (so it must sill be working).
Is this more a case of having faulty/directy connection points which work intermittedly?
Thanks

 

Both of those errors can be intermittent in rare cases, but they are also indicative of a weak 12V OR bad ground straps. There is the main (-) cable to the battery, a braided strap from the CVT to the drivers side (can't remember where it attaches) and a strap from the engine to the passenger side motor mount. The must be corrosion free with zero electrical resistance.

Your 3 posts have occurred in 3 different forums... HCH1, HCH2 and HAH.

I suggest you pick the appropriate one and stick with it.

EDIT: Not sure of your geographic region, but in the U.S., O'Reilly auto parts uses Bosch brand code readers and reliably read many hybrid codes - far better results than with cheap OBDII solutions.

 

Thanks Steve, you are certainly busy on this Forum! The only reason I posted in the threads that I have (across different cars) is that I was looking for similar issues to the ones I was having myself - and didn't think it was worth starting a new thread for each.
Appreciate your thoughts on the codes. I think the 12V needs a full charge, and cleaning out all of the contacts and corrosion on the terminals etc is probably a good things given the age of the car.
Codes have been off since the were cleared yesterday... so probably just an intermittent issue.
Cheers

 

Honda behavior with the 12V is kinda crappy. In order to squeeze a small amount of efficiency out of the system, they "float" the 12V battery at lower states of charge than is typical. This results in a tiny efficiency gain at the expense of a lower state of charge, lower cold cranking amps and shorter battery life. 12V cells can become imbalanced with this practice. Periodic topping off with a good 12V charger that floats in the vicinity of 13.6V helps equalize the battery cells and extend their life.