tips and mods to make your honda civic hybrid run as should be
#21
08-03-2010, 04:05 PM
Re: tips and mods to make your honda civic hybrid run as should be
a update is at the end
* this is for anyone that are having ima battery codes , first , get a new 12 volt battery if you want the best, get sears platinum my other post gives the model number,even if your battery tested out ok,its knowed that a under size battery here hch that on its way out will mismanage the ima system throwing any possible codes,seen it posted twice by mechanics and it aligned with logic,
* that cause eliminated we start new,
we try to do the same thing as taking out your ima battery out of the car and trickle charge the battery pack ,well almost.
only thing we cant do is completely drain each cell roll,but we trickle charge in only useing 4 bars in charging your ima battery pack over and over till the ima battery pack can get rebalanced as best as it can,not counting heat damage of growing of nickel crystal as a resulting of heat build up of charging too fast or the results of relying on too many bars on braking and decelerating ,
a few other site have taught that having the computer recharge is bad they called it force recharge,and should be avoided for best mpg,but their never a free lunch,
but really not having the computer slow charge 4 bars its a way to have your ima battery
died early. of over heating and unbalance sticks cell.
how to drive without too many bar of recharging takes practice but its also the road to better mpg,
it here in
gliding.https://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/...ndex2.htmsurml
the word distributing ......... it can only be done in everyone gets something, with a steady stream of supplies, having a whole bunch to hand out here and their not going to work equally ,
the ima pack has 20 sticks x 6 cells,it likely connected in parallel but even then if you would cut a roll Im sure you would find the low cells are in the middle the end are getting more,
look at it this way, as the ima pack ,
say we have 20 lines different of 6 people you distribute by giving each first inline, some times 4 some times 2 saying take one and past the rest behind,
over and over the first in line is guarantee to get more than the person in back,/
now on the other side we let the computer distribute its authorize to hand out a steady stream and will not stop till all person have one,
on top of this its done with 4 bars a trickle charge that will not heat up the sticks,
so if your software still working try let the computer trickle charge the battery,it might give it time to get balance as best as it can,
a slow Constance 40 to 60 % charge is a non aggressively usage , and logically your ima pack could go possible twice the distance ,who knows its could have been design as usage that way. http://www.ziddu.com/albumview.php?k...=282016&page=1
update...........................................
another thing to add to trying to rebalanced your ima battery sticks is,
we know that the car shouldn't be unstarted for more than a month,
so a drain means a self leveling as it drain,
its uncharted waters leaving the car to sit a few day to drain between cycles,but that a taught
a short cut, because now we know they will be self leveling (same as water)we work with that
and time
we run the car just as we get home it just at when the computer software kick in to recharge ,
and a bit will drain and the lower level battery will self level between rolls and different cells
over night,
next day the computer will recharge the ima battery slowly with 4 bars,
drive without using more than 4 bars a trickle charge as I explained to recharge the ima battery
repeat for a few days,
* this is for anyone that are having ima battery codes , first , get a new 12 volt battery if you want the best, get sears platinum my other post gives the model number,even if your battery tested out ok,its knowed that a under size battery here hch that on its way out will mismanage the ima system throwing any possible codes,seen it posted twice by mechanics and it aligned with logic,
* that cause eliminated we start new,
we try to do the same thing as taking out your ima battery out of the car and trickle charge the battery pack ,well almost.
only thing we cant do is completely drain each cell roll,but we trickle charge in only useing 4 bars in charging your ima battery pack over and over till the ima battery pack can get rebalanced as best as it can,not counting heat damage of growing of nickel crystal as a resulting of heat build up of charging too fast or the results of relying on too many bars on braking and decelerating ,
a few other site have taught that having the computer recharge is bad they called it force recharge,and should be avoided for best mpg,but their never a free lunch,
but really not having the computer slow charge 4 bars its a way to have your ima battery
died early. of over heating and unbalance sticks cell.
how to drive without too many bar of recharging takes practice but its also the road to better mpg,
it here in
gliding.https://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/...ndex2.htmsurml
the word distributing ......... it can only be done in everyone gets something, with a steady stream of supplies, having a whole bunch to hand out here and their not going to work equally ,
the ima pack has 20 sticks x 6 cells,it likely connected in parallel but even then if you would cut a roll Im sure you would find the low cells are in the middle the end are getting more,
look at it this way, as the ima pack ,
say we have 20 lines different of 6 people you distribute by giving each first inline, some times 4 some times 2 saying take one and past the rest behind,
over and over the first in line is guarantee to get more than the person in back,/
now on the other side we let the computer distribute its authorize to hand out a steady stream and will not stop till all person have one,
on top of this its done with 4 bars a trickle charge that will not heat up the sticks,
so if your software still working try let the computer trickle charge the battery,it might give it time to get balance as best as it can,
a slow Constance 40 to 60 % charge is a non aggressively usage , and logically your ima pack could go possible twice the distance ,who knows its could have been design as usage that way. http://www.ziddu.com/albumview.php?k...=282016&page=1
update...........................................
another thing to add to trying to rebalanced your ima battery sticks is,
we know that the car shouldn't be unstarted for more than a month,
so a drain means a self leveling as it drain,
its uncharted waters leaving the car to sit a few day to drain between cycles,but that a taught
a short cut, because now we know they will be self leveling (same as water)we work with that
and time
we run the car just as we get home it just at when the computer software kick in to recharge ,
and a bit will drain and the lower level battery will self level between rolls and different cells
over night,
next day the computer will recharge the ima battery slowly with 4 bars,
drive without using more than 4 bars a trickle charge as I explained to recharge the ima battery
repeat for a few days,
Last edited by aqua; 08-03-2010 at 04:10 PM.
#22
08-10-2010, 03:09 PM
under car airflow
check under your car, you might not have the complete package ,as even some newer only models have only has a engine body pan cover also .
they should be 4 pieces total, 1 behind that engine and 2 on the side.
https://www.greenhybrid.com/share/sh...hp?i=1663&c=52 its can be found at a honda supplies house ,and they run about 75.00 ea but here its double that,
so I found a way to do better,
it can be found at a hardware store under home radiant barrier aluminum foils rolls, its 89 cent foot and nasa used it, its very strong with a nylon center, and glue well with contact cement,its isnt going anywhere , you start under that engine pan, and brush glue under car where you want to glue and foils and let dry, wait then applied not cutting roll, one roll for each side left and right, do under the tail pipe and muffler, and you can touch up patches later .
leave the front right before the engine pan open, so air can enter the engine .
also your car has a rubber 1'' bumper lip in front under the bumper ,my was tilted back from hitting a parking stop,
it can be reset by pushing hard with two hands its will pop back in and will be straight again . letting the airflow go around the car.
big difference in coasting power also this mod does add to the small amount of gas you can use of not having asst coming in, and better mpg
I change my license plate position its now blocking the center of the bottom grill.l little lower and a tiny slight tilt down its also has a Plexiglas cover that slightly roundish.
that improvement is huge,almost the same a doing the underside in alum,
make sense as that radiator grill is 30+% of wind drag,
you can try it out first by making 1 hole that is originally under the license plate,so if you dont want it ,it will be hidden,
its that a hole at the bottom of the bumper.
and the license bracket bottom arms rest on the bottom of the grill, than can be attaches with a homemade wire clip or in my case I love it so made 2 new holes .
the car now coast forever, really about 2 stop lights in low speeds 30 to 40mph,
again feel like I added more power, I just started to drive costing in neutral too.
, I look at it as it will pay back when my car get to 300 miles,even it in my head that the car motor is still fresh a 3th of it was at idling.
and car still looks normal.
car doesn't heat up even here at 93 d.
I used about 28 'of foils.
easy to glue use metal contact cement. and its strong no need to use alum.sheet that hard to work with,
glad I done it,its will pay back big in the long run, .
I still need touch up work ,that was done after the picture was taken .
http://www.ziddu.com/albumview.php?k...=296886&page=1
they should be 4 pieces total, 1 behind that engine and 2 on the side.
https://www.greenhybrid.com/share/sh...hp?i=1663&c=52 its can be found at a honda supplies house ,and they run about 75.00 ea but here its double that,
so I found a way to do better,
it can be found at a hardware store under home radiant barrier aluminum foils rolls, its 89 cent foot and nasa used it, its very strong with a nylon center, and glue well with contact cement,its isnt going anywhere , you start under that engine pan, and brush glue under car where you want to glue and foils and let dry, wait then applied not cutting roll, one roll for each side left and right, do under the tail pipe and muffler, and you can touch up patches later .
leave the front right before the engine pan open, so air can enter the engine .
also your car has a rubber 1'' bumper lip in front under the bumper ,my was tilted back from hitting a parking stop,
it can be reset by pushing hard with two hands its will pop back in and will be straight again . letting the airflow go around the car.
big difference in coasting power also this mod does add to the small amount of gas you can use of not having asst coming in, and better mpg
I change my license plate position its now blocking the center of the bottom grill.l little lower and a tiny slight tilt down its also has a Plexiglas cover that slightly roundish.
that improvement is huge,almost the same a doing the underside in alum,
make sense as that radiator grill is 30+% of wind drag,
you can try it out first by making 1 hole that is originally under the license plate,so if you dont want it ,it will be hidden,
its that a hole at the bottom of the bumper.
and the license bracket bottom arms rest on the bottom of the grill, than can be attaches with a homemade wire clip or in my case I love it so made 2 new holes .
the car now coast forever, really about 2 stop lights in low speeds 30 to 40mph,
again feel like I added more power, I just started to drive costing in neutral too.
, I look at it as it will pay back when my car get to 300 miles,even it in my head that the car motor is still fresh a 3th of it was at idling.
and car still looks normal.
car doesn't heat up even here at 93 d.
I used about 28 'of foils.
easy to glue use metal contact cement. and its strong no need to use alum.sheet that hard to work with,
glad I done it,its will pay back big in the long run, .
I still need touch up work ,that was done after the picture was taken .
http://www.ziddu.com/albumview.php?k...=296886&page=1
Last edited by aqua; 08-12-2010 at 04:53 PM.
#23
08-11-2010, 04:49 PM
Re: tips and mods to make your honda civic hybrid run as should be
This guy does not know what he is doing or talking about. Do the modifications and take it to any car mechanic. I'd like to hear their responses.
#24
08-11-2010, 10:18 PM
un happy dude
am I forcing anybody to improve their own car? what about you? trash talk is cheap,
this forum is full of do it yourself doers who want ideas for improvements ,not chicken heads who fearful to touch
their hhc1 03 or 7 years old payed off car to improve mpg,
grow up.
and yes the engine pan cover is left untouched in case the honda mechanic who were afraid of is also having a bad
day.
Last edited by aqua; 08-11-2010 at 10:37 PM.
#25
08-12-2010, 01:52 AM
Re: tips and mods to make your honda civic hybrid run as should be
My fifth grader has better english and can type better. I don't see any others typing replies.
#26
08-26-2010, 07:07 PM
Re: tips and mods to make your honda civic hybrid run as should be
don't feel like taking pictures and spending a few hours uploading (slow site)on a few old mod I did,but one was changing the stranded 14 gage wire from the 12 volt outlet to a house ac 10 gage flat solid wire, I used a 4 wire choice ,returning back to my volt meter or a reading after both battery (more accurate) as the formally thin stranded 14 just wasn't delivering full voltage ,now its a solid durable connection.am working on more mod ,as its harder to come,half of one in the mail, and my honda coded paint just got cancelled,
I really believe honda overlooking the undersized older 475 cca 12 volt battery as a problems in sudden drop in ima battery levels,
well logically........ have you ever run a load on the 12 volt remote outlets? my small asus laptop with a inverter
and using a large 8 to 16 volt gage meter,
it will read first 12.8 w/engine off about 30 minutes later its will be a low 12.2 v
and even after I brought a new civic battery.cause its has just a 475cca rating .
and using a duel battery (2 civic battery
) and hour long ,but now with the sear platinum its about 3 hours
how many auto stops do you have ? say its 10 stops x 3 minutes ea. that 30 minutes with the inverter off and running on battery reserve ,lets see what really on,their 3 brakes lights that on,and super brite dash console ,a radiator fan that on and off.a computer that always ,a radio that on,
engine on? counting how many times did you roll the window up or down.on,blinker that you used ever now and then,
its a twin spark engine so its 8 plugs double and sharing the coils that need to have a couple hundred volt to build up to fire,
and now even the newer hybrid they also have daylite running light on. (can be fuse disconnected )
now we turn on the ac, to make matters worst ,you have the inside car blower and on the engine, and their a ac, motor that share with a regular belt driven running the ac sometime (can be fuse disconnected )
so a auto stop is basically draining your not so full size 12 v battery that is trying to catch up getting fully charging when moving ,
because I run a duel battery pack and once or twice have run my battery super low I have seen it on my volt gage its reads 13 .3 volts as normal but soon as you use asst the gage drops to 12.2 and let off its 13.3 again ,that because
its written in software to turn off the dc inverter when using asst. how charge the ima battery was then? below half bars.
so what I think is happening in a recall as some are talking about (ima battery bars drop)
their ima battery cant fully recharge a old 12vbattery because of over use and a drop-off to 12.2 volts
that is confusing the computer,as charge bar are adjust aka sensors,and the ima battery try recharges the 12 volt battery , (bar get subtracted then added say some )
and that leaves you with a car that really low in power as a 12.2 volt battery alone get realized (out of juice) when the down converter shut off as in the computer recharging the ima battery ,
I just had a 45mpg ,dashboard 80city/20 hwy average less than a mpg more, its was without ethanol
and cost much more so not worth it, 11gal 456 miles same 3 weeks ,should have been 500 miles, without a scan gage I cant tell how much gas is left ,
just loves the honda its a trill to drive so cheaply
and its not a tiny car like the fit, and what does it get ?
30 mpg something and the smart car 34mpg.
its getting better and better.
I really believe honda overlooking the undersized older 475 cca 12 volt battery as a problems in sudden drop in ima battery levels,
well logically........ have you ever run a load on the 12 volt remote outlets? my small asus laptop with a inverter
and using a large 8 to 16 volt gage meter,
it will read first 12.8 w/engine off about 30 minutes later its will be a low 12.2 v
and even after I brought a new civic battery.cause its has just a 475cca rating .
and using a duel battery (2 civic battery
) and hour long ,but now with the sear platinum its about 3 hours
how many auto stops do you have ? say its 10 stops x 3 minutes ea. that 30 minutes with the inverter off and running on battery reserve ,lets see what really on,their 3 brakes lights that on,and super brite dash console ,a radiator fan that on and off.a computer that always ,a radio that on,
engine on? counting how many times did you roll the window up or down.on,blinker that you used ever now and then,
its a twin spark engine so its 8 plugs double and sharing the coils that need to have a couple hundred volt to build up to fire,
and now even the newer hybrid they also have daylite running light on. (can be fuse disconnected )
now we turn on the ac, to make matters worst ,you have the inside car blower and on the engine, and their a ac, motor that share with a regular belt driven running the ac sometime (can be fuse disconnected )
so a auto stop is basically draining your not so full size 12 v battery that is trying to catch up getting fully charging when moving ,
because I run a duel battery pack and once or twice have run my battery super low I have seen it on my volt gage its reads 13 .3 volts as normal but soon as you use asst the gage drops to 12.2 and let off its 13.3 again ,that because
its written in software to turn off the dc inverter when using asst. how charge the ima battery was then? below half bars.
so what I think is happening in a recall as some are talking about (ima battery bars drop)
their ima battery cant fully recharge a old 12vbattery because of over use and a drop-off to 12.2 volts
that is confusing the computer,as charge bar are adjust aka sensors,and the ima battery try recharges the 12 volt battery , (bar get subtracted then added say some )
and that leaves you with a car that really low in power as a 12.2 volt battery alone get realized (out of juice) when the down converter shut off as in the computer recharging the ima battery ,
I just had a 45mpg ,dashboard 80city/20 hwy average less than a mpg more, its was without ethanol
and cost much more so not worth it, 11gal 456 miles same 3 weeks ,should have been 500 miles, without a scan gage I cant tell how much gas is left ,
just loves the honda its a trill to drive so cheaply
and its not a tiny car like the fit, and what does it get ?
30 mpg something and the smart car 34mpg.
its getting better and better.
Last edited by aqua; 08-26-2010 at 10:26 PM.
#27
09-06-2010, 09:33 PM
mpg gage magnifying card
found this on utube world fastest electric car http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=369h-...eature=related, their other tubes that very interesting,some builder mention that he using a charger on each battery to avoid the every few week chore of charging every battery separately that home build electric car builder need to do.
so even here their is still that problem of cant fully charge a bank of battery, a bank of battery is the problem.
but after seeing the trouble builder are going though.make you appreciate your hybrid more.
well I was thinking about buying a scan gage but,I rather see a sliding gage,better than changing number,kiwi sell a round gage but the number are short,well maybe later,the miles to empty is about the most wanted item.
so I wanted a magnifying glas that small enough to enlarge the sliding gage,
I came up with a magnifying card at border that cuttable ,how you mont it is your personal taste ,it does work well, only their daylight refection but not unreadable even with shades,
mine I use a folder plastic end bar cap that I slide the cut card into then its glue down in front, its a probably more than double increase in size,be careful
cutting will leave the 1000 rpm still visible .
its a cheap trick but it work and very useful to glance down at and you can even count the single bar now.
had another tankful or rather 12 gal, another 45 mpg, just wildly Iam paying 53.00 every month in gas and going cruising a lot.
seem unreal since my altima was getting 23 and 28 and I wasn't driving too far because I was spending already over a hundred a month.
IAm still letting my computer recharge my ima battery slowly 4 bar.(you can still glide while recharging on or off and still get good mpg)
that is by running out my ima battery till its about 40 % and the computer ready to start recharging when I reach home ,timing.then over night battery pack cells should get better balanced with the smaller % of charge.
the next day ,run it out and the its will slow charge it back up with the computer,and at stop or long hill I put it in neutral to avoid adding many,after its charge , then its normal usage again I can use as many bars braking, but I will not charge the battery past 60 % mild usage
logically it seem to be best route ,
http://www.ziddu.com/albumview.php?k...=307629&page=1
the throttle linkage picture somehow the hhc1 run better if the right side trottle cable holder is holding 1/2 to 1'' inside of the end cap vs right up to the cap as its seems to slowly slide to, I pinch the cabble holder a bit ,
its same trottle play but somehow some angles are in the sweet spot try it, if you can see differences in the two picture included.
result ? better drivability seems tighter,
I do have a engine check lite that comes and goes its related to my gas cap ,turning it will turn it off for a day or too.so Iam not really concerned about it .
so even here their is still that problem of cant fully charge a bank of battery, a bank of battery is the problem.
but after seeing the trouble builder are going though.make you appreciate your hybrid more.
well I was thinking about buying a scan gage but,I rather see a sliding gage,better than changing number,kiwi sell a round gage but the number are short,well maybe later,the miles to empty is about the most wanted item.
so I wanted a magnifying glas that small enough to enlarge the sliding gage,
I came up with a magnifying card at border that cuttable ,how you mont it is your personal taste ,it does work well, only their daylight refection but not unreadable even with shades,
mine I use a folder plastic end bar cap that I slide the cut card into then its glue down in front, its a probably more than double increase in size,be careful
cutting will leave the 1000 rpm still visible .
its a cheap trick but it work and very useful to glance down at and you can even count the single bar now.
had another tankful or rather 12 gal, another 45 mpg, just wildly Iam paying 53.00 every month in gas and going cruising a lot.
seem unreal since my altima was getting 23 and 28 and I wasn't driving too far because I was spending already over a hundred a month.
IAm still letting my computer recharge my ima battery slowly 4 bar.(you can still glide while recharging on or off and still get good mpg)
that is by running out my ima battery till its about 40 % and the computer ready to start recharging when I reach home ,timing.then over night battery pack cells should get better balanced with the smaller % of charge.
the next day ,run it out and the its will slow charge it back up with the computer,and at stop or long hill I put it in neutral to avoid adding many,after its charge , then its normal usage again I can use as many bars braking, but I will not charge the battery past 60 % mild usage
logically it seem to be best route ,
http://www.ziddu.com/albumview.php?k...=307629&page=1
the throttle linkage picture somehow the hhc1 run better if the right side trottle cable holder is holding 1/2 to 1'' inside of the end cap vs right up to the cap as its seems to slowly slide to, I pinch the cabble holder a bit ,
its same trottle play but somehow some angles are in the sweet spot try it, if you can see differences in the two picture included.
result ? better drivability seems tighter,
I do have a engine check lite that comes and goes its related to my gas cap ,turning it will turn it off for a day or too.so Iam not really concerned about it .
Last edited by aqua; 09-06-2010 at 09:56 PM.
#28
09-14-2010, 11:15 PM
Re: tips and mods to make your honda civic hybrid run as should be
Aqua, you're a fountain of misinformation. I really do not even know where to begin explaining to you where you are wrong, as there are so many, many mistakes in your logic and blatantly poor knowledge.
Get an education. Go to a trade school, a community college, a **** jiffy lube and LEARN. Learn from people who actually know what they are doing. I'd say read a book about the topic, but your english is on par with that of a Nigerian email scam artist, and I trust that you'll barely be able to comprehend what I've written here. However, until you are actually taught how to perform any automotive modifications, I STRONGLY suggest you put the tools down and step away from the car. It's only a matter of time before you hurt yourself, or someone else, due to your lacking ability and overwhelming sense of confidence.
I'm no automotive engineer, but 6 years in the diesel trade has taught me well enough to spot someone spewing horse apples with great consistency. You sir, top of that list, currently.
Get an education. Go to a trade school, a community college, a **** jiffy lube and LEARN. Learn from people who actually know what they are doing. I'd say read a book about the topic, but your english is on par with that of a Nigerian email scam artist, and I trust that you'll barely be able to comprehend what I've written here. However, until you are actually taught how to perform any automotive modifications, I STRONGLY suggest you put the tools down and step away from the car. It's only a matter of time before you hurt yourself, or someone else, due to your lacking ability and overwhelming sense of confidence.
I'm no automotive engineer, but 6 years in the diesel trade has taught me well enough to spot someone spewing horse apples with great consistency. You sir, top of that list, currently.
#29
09-15-2010, 01:17 AM
Re: tips and mods to make your honda civic hybrid run as should be
wandering idiot,
setting my bad english which is true ,and your nasty almighty altitude aside .
lets talk about the honda hybrid civic
and about tip and mod as this thread about, not a english knowledge contest.
what mods am I wrong about?
lets debate the hhc1 change I made, and we can go over the results it gave.saying it wrong dont make you right,.prove it.
as I have said to the other inquiring fellow,
most who read it are do it yourself doer
so my not so perfect instruction ,is enough as some probably can do the mod better in they own way
setting my bad english which is true ,and your nasty almighty altitude aside .
lets talk about the honda hybrid civic
and about tip and mod as this thread about, not a english knowledge contest.
what mods am I wrong about?
lets debate the hhc1 change I made, and we can go over the results it gave.saying it wrong dont make you right,.prove it.
as I have said to the other inquiring fellow,
most who read it are do it yourself doer
so my not so perfect instruction ,is enough as some probably can do the mod better in they own way
Aqua, you're a fountain of misinformation. I really do not even know where to begin explaining to you where you are wrong, as there are so many, many mistakes in your logic and blatantly poor knowledge.
Get an education. Go to a trade school, a community college, a **** jiffy lube and LEARN. Learn from people who actually know what they are doing. I'd say read a book about the topic, but your english is on par with that of a Nigerian email scam artist, and I trust that you'll barely be able to comprehend what I've written here. However, until you are actually taught how to perform any automotive modifications, I STRONGLY suggest you put the tools down and step away from the car. It's only a matter of time before you hurt yourself, or someone else, due to your lacking ability and overwhelming sense of confidence.
I'm no automotive engineer, but 6 years in the diesel trade has taught me well enough to spot someone spewing horse apples with great consistency. You sir, top of that list, currently.
Get an education. Go to a trade school, a community college, a **** jiffy lube and LEARN. Learn from people who actually know what they are doing. I'd say read a book about the topic, but your english is on par with that of a Nigerian email scam artist, and I trust that you'll barely be able to comprehend what I've written here. However, until you are actually taught how to perform any automotive modifications, I STRONGLY suggest you put the tools down and step away from the car. It's only a matter of time before you hurt yourself, or someone else, due to your lacking ability and overwhelming sense of confidence.
I'm no automotive engineer, but 6 years in the diesel trade has taught me well enough to spot someone spewing horse apples with great consistency. You sir, top of that list, currently.
#30
09-15-2010, 01:50 AM
Re: tips and mods to make your honda civic hybrid run as should be
8
your right the 12 volt is a weak link in the hhc
,but their no alternator on the hhc, it uses a dc to dc down converter taken from the 140 volt ima battery,
getting your 12 volt battery charged only when the engine on. that why refilling a fell off the cliff over worked dying 12 volt battery can makes some battery bars disappear.
their is a starter on the engine but it only work when the ima system is non operational ,meaning you start off the ima battery with the electric motor in everyday use,but the car battery still has to energize 8 coil (yes honda still use them) on top of 8 spark plug, so your 12 volt battery could well be dead on a regular car that needed to be started up, but here its goes unnoticed.
What hert said. You have two batteries in the HCH. The 12v under the hood that runs the accessories when the engine is off and starts the engine initially, and the 144v? IMA battery between the backseat and the trunk. Any auto parts store should carry the battery you need for $60-100. There's no fixing it, just replacing it. It being a 2006, the battery is (likely) original and is just worn out. The 144v battery has nothing to do with starting the engine initially, only after auto-stop.
There is a possibility that the alternator is shot and the battery is dead because it is not receiving enough power from the alternator to keep the battery charged, but that is rather unlikely, given the situation.
My '04 had a related quirk the last time my 12v died. When turning the key I'd step on the accelerator and it acted as if the IMA system kicked in to start the engine. I didn't have enough power to run the lights with the engine off, and it still kicked over but didn't have the traditional engine starting sound. I don't know if this is something intentional by design of the HCH, but I do know it worked.
There is a possibility that the alternator is shot and the battery is dead because it is not receiving enough power from the alternator to keep the battery charged, but that is rather unlikely, given the situation.
My '04 had a related quirk the last time my 12v died. When turning the key I'd step on the accelerator and it acted as if the IMA system kicked in to start the engine. I didn't have enough power to run the lights with the engine off, and it still kicked over but didn't have the traditional engine starting sound. I don't know if this is something intentional by design of the HCH, but I do know it worked.
,but their no alternator on the hhc, it uses a dc to dc down converter taken from the 140 volt ima battery,
getting your 12 volt battery charged only when the engine on. that why refilling a fell off the cliff over worked dying 12 volt battery can makes some battery bars disappear.
their is a starter on the engine but it only work when the ima system is non operational ,meaning you start off the ima battery with the electric motor in everyday use,but the car battery still has to energize 8 coil (yes honda still use them) on top of 8 spark plug, so your 12 volt battery could well be dead on a regular car that needed to be started up, but here its goes unnoticed.
Last edited by aqua; 09-15-2010 at 10:17 PM.
