manuals are availbe since day one I have one but ...............havent needed to use it.. bought I think from info in owners manual

 

Step 1. Let engine cool COMPLETELY. This is important as to get the correct valve lash clearance.

Step 2. Remove the "IMA" cover by simply pulling up. After this is removed, you'll see two 10mm bolts holding on the intake cowl. Remove these two bolts, and pull up and out the intake cowl.


Step 3. Remove the 8 spark plug coil/caps by removing the 10mm cap nut on each one, and un-clipping the connector for each. Pull straight up on them to remove. Remove the front 4 spark plugs. Remove the accelerator cable holder bolt, and vent hose. I marked these with arrows below.


Step 4. Pull the rubber spark plug wire harness 'thingie' up, and tie out of the way of the valve cover. I used a rubber band to hold it out of the way. See below.


Step 5. Remove the 8 valve cover bolts (the locations are marked below with arrows). You may have to pry the rubber caps on the bolts with a screwdriver to remove. Gently tap the valve cover with a rubber mallet to 'break loose' the gasket. Remove valve cover.

I labelled the above photo with cylinder number, and also the locations of the individual valve adjusters (with circles).

Step 6. In order to rotate the engine to adjust the individual cylinders, I jacked up my right front tire, and put the gear shift (Manual Tranny) in 4th. I think you can do the same with an automatic tranny? I dunno.
Anyway, you have to rotate the wheel and look at the cam gear for #1 TDC, of Top Dead Center of the #1 piston. You'll see in the photo below, the letters "UP" and a horizontal set of hash marks, which should be parallel to the cylinder head surface. Now you can adjust the #1 cylinder!

Step 7. Adjust the valves. In the photo above, I maked the area to place your feeler guage (long arrow).
Valve Clearance:
Intake: 0.15-0.19mm (0.006-0.007inches)
Exhaust: 0.24-0.28mm (0.009-0.011inches)
Slide the feeler guage into the gap between the tappet top, and adjuster bottom. You have the correct "size" when you can slide the guage out, but with some resistance. The next size guage up shouldn't fit at all. The adjustment itself is done by loosening the 10mm nut (circled above), and turning the screw in - or out. Like I mentioned, about HALF my vlaves were loose, ie; I had to tighten the screws. After adjusting the valve, hold your screwdriver so it doesn't move, and re-tightnen the 10mm nut. That's it. Do both #1 intake, and exhaust valves with the cam gear in the position show.

Step 8. Rotate the tire (slightly!) clockwise until you see the next number appear on the cam gear. It should be #3. See below.

Ok, so it's a bad photo. The number is at the top, and you have the same hash marks to align horizontally. Repeat Step #7 for both #3 valves.
Do it all over again for cylinders #4 and #2.

Step 9... After adjusting all 8 valves, check all adjstment nuts are tight (~18ft/lbs), and clean the valve cover mating surfaces. Replace your 4 front spark plugs. Actually, now would be a GREAT time to replace your plugs anyway! Lower wheel jack. Put a 'smear' of gasket sealant on the rubber valve cover gasket, and put the cover back on. Install the 8 cover bolts, and tighten - NOTE: These don't have to be very tight at all. Snug is it. Replace the spark plug wire harness thingie, cable clamp, vent hose, and spark plug coil/caps. Re-connect coil connector clips. Replace covers.

That's it. Let the 'smear' of gasket sealant set up for 10-15 minutes, then fire up the engine.
Enjoy your Honda Dealer savings of over $300!

 

Nicely done!
Engine looks very clean inside at 130K!

 

Credit Mobil 1.

 

I know, reviving and old post! Are the instructions the same for an HCH-2?

And:
Is the valve cover fitted with an o-ring style gasket? It's been some years since I've touched a valve cover, but I thought you weren't meant to use sealant on o-ring styles, rather lube them up with some engine oil?

 

I've posted some info on that here:

http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17946

 

I did valve clearance adjustment on my HAH at 87k and 2/3 of valves were out of spec. Most of them loose but couple were tight (no good). I did it at the dealer bcs: 1) have no time, 2) it is quite difficult on V6 engine. I replaced spark plugs as well because there were right there. And I asked for a compression test which came out with amazing results, thanks to Mobil1 full-synthetic oil. Still it took dealer 6 HOURS! to do the job and $740 out of my pocket. Now it is big difference in cars performance.

 

That's how I justify purchasing a Service Manual for most every Honda we've got: it pays for itself the first time you check your valve clearance yourself.

I'm a little suprised at that 6 hour labour charge. Maybe due to V6? I've no experience with those. What took me a heck of a long time with just the HCHII was getting at the valves, having to pull off the trim at bottom of windshield, for access. Also, one of the valve cover bolts is near unaccessible, and there is a wiring harness running along the top that is another handful. Other than that, over the years with various Hondas, the job usually takes me about 2 hours top. That's on a 4 cylinder though.

Plug replacement is an hour labour, tops. The HCHII actually 8 of those, fwiw.

BTW, regarding any references to cylinder numbers, when you're standing at the front of the vehicle, cylinder #1 is on your left.

 

An extremely helpful visual how-to.

The only thing I'll add is the torque, per the service manual, for the adjuster nut on cylinder 1 is 10ft/lbs and cylinders 2-4 is 14 ft/lbs.

 

I just want to say thanks! I did my valve adjustment today. It took me about 1 1/2 hours. took my time I printed out your instructions and took it out there with me and changed my plugs while i was at it.
Thanks again