I have a 2008 honda civic hybrid ,have had it out over 30 times going thru the battery and reinstall it. This time it has a p1570 code as usual,but the Car battery light stays on too and no bars are registering , even though i have 180 volts after charging with a grid charger. There is no assist and no brake charging either. And the battery charging is at 13.6 volts going down the road at 2000 rpms...but much lower 11.6 at idle. Good car battery btw....any clues why the car is not accessing the battery?
How do you test the dc to dc charger? tx

 

Your P1570 situation is so bad, it's partially disabled DC-DC operation. I have seen cases where it will eventually completely disable the DC-DC.

You have verified DC-DC is functioning at 2000 rpm and verified it is not functioning at idle. You can also verify it doesn't function at higher rpms as well (>3500 or maybe higher).

This behavior is normal for a hybrid battery that has been completely isolated from the system due to cell failure triggering P1570. Total voltage doesn't matter at all, and 180V is low for a pack fresh off a grid charger.

Your battery failed 30 installations ago, and all of your efforts have been for naught. You're seeing the progression of it getting worse.

You likely have multiple failed cells in multiple subpacks if you have any good ones at all. I have on the order of 12 dead HCH2 packs left over from building 3 decent packs from 15.

 

The 180 volts is after sitting over night...it actually does go to 190 volts plus on a voltage meter and 198 by the grid charger meter, which seems to be a high digital reading to me? I use to go thru each set of sticks with a single charger/discharger before i purchased the grid charger/discharger. So going by what you mentioned you believe that the dc/dc is probably ok? Could the end plate or face plate be causing a problem?
The battery is not accessed at all in any way and the car battery light staying on means the car battery is not charged properly either. I still only have the p1570 code no others.
Btw I do a 130 amp load test on each set of batteries and four go down to 10 volts while the rest stay 10.2 or higher. 2 are at 10.6. That is a heavy load test for one set of nmh batteries.
I was just testing with 100 amp load but it i had no batteries falling low enough to weed out except on and replaced it...

 

180V after an overnight sit is probably okay.

Grid charge for 24 hours and let the subpacks sit for 7 days. Any that are lower than 0.2V below the highest subpack are bad. Any that are lower than 0.1V below the highest subpack are suspect. Any subpacks with > 0.05V between the individual sticks are bad. For best results, check all cells within a subpack. Any that are outside a 0.03V range are marginal and will require grid charging for continued health.

The biggest killer of these cells is self discharge. The only way to test for SD is time.

You can start checking voltages within 24 hours, and you'll likely see deviations rapidly.

Based on your load testing, I would conclude you have at most two good subpacks, and you have likely trashed multiple cells with excessive load.