Alright, so I finally got around to charging the low pressure AC, after some mental turmoil it caused me. I used up one whole can, and the with second I believe I put to much in initially, so I vented some because AC would keep disengaging, that said I dont think I let it properly cycle at the time. I was a little freaked out and set it to 65C for whatever reason instead of "low" and kept venting out some till it would stay engaged, and that was in the cycle mode I believe.

Below are the results after venting some with the second can. Max ac At highest fan speed was the settings with either:

- When in inside air cycling mode, the PSI doesn't go past 32, which is in the green according to my walmart gauge.

- When in "taking outside air" mode, that pressure goes up to 40 psi and stays at about that point during idle. This was after a drive to the store leaving car on as the cycling results above.

According to this chart, im in the green assuming its either 76 or 81 F outside: http://acprocold.com/faq/r-134a-system-pressure-chart/ Does this however mean it for cycling or outer air mode?

So charge a little more? AC was engaged the entire time, and it appears pressure feedback does take a little longer then I though, as it total jumped in pressure during charge. Just to clarify for temperature, should I go by what the temperature gauge says on the honda, or what is being said on google? Google was telling me 76F, while the honda was telling me 81F, so I dont know which one it will like more at this point.

So is discharging r134a illegal or not, that same stuff is apparently whats in canned air dusters...

 

My '06 had a site glass. Fill until the bubbles are gone.

Results are best when ambient is between 85 and 95°F.

Refrigerant pressures are usually with windows down and A/C on full blast in recirc mode. You need to run it for at least 5 minutes to get to steady state before making any adjustments.

Use a thermometer in the center vent. IIRC, it should be in the low 50°Fs.

Deliberately venting R-134a is illegal. R-134a will still damage ozone, but it's a very fragile molecule and most breaks down before it can damage the ozone, but it still happens. Canned air dusters use R-152a, which is a potential replacement for R-134a, and it doesn't damage ozone at all.

Not sure about your results. I do it by feel, and when I don't have a site glass, I use a full set of manifold gauges.

 

Alright, I will wait till its about that temp to add more. Probably more importantly when it comes to that temp, I will just add a little, drive some and then check psi later because I hate idling.

Is using 152a new or a california regulation? I couldnt find any EPA laws on it, and here's a bottle of canned air that uses 134a thats down at my local hardware store :https://www.acehardware.com/departme...ed-air/3418084 Its "Ozone safe"

 

Checked the MSDS to be sure, and yep, that brand is R-134a. Apparently the "venting" legality is specifically for refrigerant applications.

Don't drive. Get over your hatred of idling. You're introducing a variable flow over the condenser rather than letting the condenser fans do it according to start/stop criteria.

 

Variable from that? I was under the impression that the compressor clutch it was supposed to be constantly engaged when on low rather then doing a start/stop, but I assume now it does then when in higher rpm. the 8 psi difference seemed to high for me going from cycling to outside air, but another 5 psi during this idling operation should be fine. Will wait till its hot.

refrigerant applications? Well that was this. People apparently even charge their ac will compressed air, not that I want to try that. Its a moot point now.

 

Driving creates a variable amount of flow over the condenser and engine rpm.

Never heard of people charging their A/C with compressed air. I've heard of plenty of people not being careful and introducing air into the system, which screws it up.

 

Thanks

 

First, I would disregard the OBDII results of the Blue Drive 4 tool. IMHO, it is an overpriced but basic scan tool that has little to offer over cheaper devices and free apps.

Go strictly off the Forscan reported DTC as there are several others.

You are deep in the weeds, and I'm a hack. IMHO, you need to get a subscription to Ford's service data:

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Home/Pricing/7

$21.95 for 72 hours of complete access to all service data including repair manuals.

And per the other thread, concur it's bad etiquette to cross post like that. I understand the desire to get attention, but better to just link to the new post as you initially did, but without including the entire post.

Good luck!