Hello everyone,
I am having a couple of problems with my 2006 HCH-II which are likely related to the IMA and CVT.

History
- 190,000 miles
- Changed oil each 7,500 and CVT each 15,000 miles
- Everything is original, except the 12V battery (1 year old), and all parts fixed by dealer recalls
- Live in Alabama with temps in 90's and high humidity. I try to leave my windows cracked, vent the cabin/trunk before leaving, park in shade, use windshield sun visor shade, park in driveway facing West, drive w/o AC, drive gently, etc...
- Hilly commute to/from work is 17 miles each way, mostly rural with light hills and two giant hills, last two miles is urban traffic

Problems:
- Check engine light comes on periodically, about 25-50% of time
- IMA light comes on less often
- IMA recalibrates a couple of times a week
- Take off gently, otherwise shutter from stop
- Shutter when traveling uphill sometimes. Check engine light blinks (no IMA light) only at this time, but returns to its previous state (on/off). No shutter on level ground.

"To Do" list:
- Get codes read and post here
- Get CVT flushed

Question:
If the check engine light is off, does the computer still store all codes that caused it to light up?

Advice is gladly appreciated!

 

IMA light will go out, but CEL remains with code that tripped IMA

Both of the above scream you need new spark plugs. Flashing CEL = active misfires and is likely the cause of all "shudder", not CVT. You're due for your 3rd set of plugs. Get OEM style NGK or Denso only. They are about $14 each from a part's store. Over $20 at the dealer. You need 8, 2 per cylinder, front and back.

You might also need new coils, but you need to confirm plugs first as coils are about $45... times 8, but you likely only have 1-2 bad if that's the issue.

Yes. Get codes read and post here.

At your mileage, cleaning the EGR plate is likely needed. It takes about 30-45 minutes and works best with pressurized air. Deal with plugs first.

CVT flush is likely not necessary on your replacement schedule. I do every other oil change, and that seems sufficient. A "flush" is basically just 3 changes in a row, which gets you to 88% clean. You can easily replace an inline filter (looks like a fuel filter between the radiator and the front of the engine for about $20 from an online Honda Parts supplier. I use Majestic honda. There was a recent thread about this.

Regardless, I would deal with your spark and EGR plate issues before doing anything else.

With your poor state of battery health, you should consider a grid charger/discharge to get your battery back in balance. Again, a recent thread "4 mile hill" discussed.

Good luck

Steve

 

Just got back from Autozone which is about 5 miles away, down and back up a large hill. No CEL or IMA light appeared during the entire trip.

Here are the codes:

P0301 - Cylinder 1 misfire
Because P0301 is only occurring on cylinder 1, would it be best to start with just replacing those two? If that does not work, then swap out the coils? I'm a bit short of cash, but plan to at least change all the spark plugs next month and then maybe a pair of coils each month until they are all replaced.

Price check on the NGK plugs was $13.99 each, but they have to order them.

The code sheet they printed said it could possibly be a vacuum leak, ignition system, fuel injector or engine mechanical. Makes me wonder if I should also add a bottle of fuel injector cleaner. I only ever put 87 octane gas in the tank, per the owners manual.


P0A7F - Battery module deterioration
I'll look at the 4 mile hill topic.


Question: EGR plate
When you say compressed air, do you mean small cans of compressed air with the plastic straw tip or with a legitimate air compressor?


Thank you very much for the info!

 

P0301 and the flashing CEL are linked. Replace your plugs. If that doesn't do it (it probably will), replace your coils. Max DIY repair = about $200 for 8 plugs and 2 coils. Check Rockauto.com for the Hitachi coils for your year. I would almost guarantee this is your "shutter."

P0A7F is the typical HCH2 battery failure mode. Grid charge/discharge are the only alternative to replacement. 4 mile hill discusses the Hybrid Automotive ~$450 solution that enables you to grid charge with great convenience. If you're cheap and can handle inconvenience (removing the battery pack), you can go DIY. Here's a link to what you need to grid charge/discharge. I haven't updated prices in a while, but it should be pretty close, and as you can see it's cheap. You just have to allow time and effort to pull/re-install the pack as you can't charge it in-place without running the fan. The fan requires a 12V supply and a 200ms PWM signal, which takes some effort to make happen.

Heh... air compressor, but you can unplug the ports with a screwdriver and get rid of most of the carbon/soot build-up with a nylon brush.

Steve

 

I'll be ordering the plugs today. Crossing fingers!


One more question. Every time I go to the auto parts stores, the staff try to get me to buy Lucas or some other brand of fuel injector cleaner. Do you recommend I buy some or any specific type/brand?

 

Meh.

I try to remember to run fuel injector cleaner from time to time. I end up doing it maybe a few times a year just on principle. I buy the cheap Supertech stuff at walmart.

If I'm trying to fix a problem that I suspect is due to fuel contamination or gumming up from old gas, I use Seafoam.

I don't know the Lucas product, but I recommend the occasional can of fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank.

I wouldn't do it in your case quite yet. I'd address the obvious problems first to assess an improvement or lack thereof. Once you've addressed each item, then a jug of cleaner is in order.

 

Sounds good. I saw the Sea Foam bottle on the counter, but didn't buy any.

I just got back from Advance Auto Parts and picked up a couple of Denso spark plugs. I'll put them in when I get home and cross my fingers...

Question: Are spark plugs today pre-gapped or do I need to verify/re-gap them?

 

couple = 8? You should replace all of them.

They are pre-gapped. Don't even try to gap them. The condition of the ones you remove will likely be markedly different.

Just looked it up... Double check your plug numbers:

ILFR6J-11K (NGK)
SK20HPR-L11 (DENSO)

 

I robbed my spare change piggy bank to buy two for cylinder 1. I plan to buy the remaining six on payday.

 

ah... fair enough

Cyl1 is on the passenger side (I had to look it up). The plug well is very deep. Getting the right extension length can be tricky in the rear as you are working in a very limited space. As I recal, two short extensions (the ones that are about 3" long) work out just right.

You insert the plug socket with a single short extension. Once you have more room, you attach the second extension, engage the plug with the socket, attach the ratchet and go. Getting the socket out after installation can be tricky. Gentle pulling while twisting back and forth with your fingertips can help.

Good luck!

Steve