Ok, my new BAFX says I only have a P1570 code, which google says is a "Battery Module Individual Voltage Input Problem". Does that mean one of my battery sticks is bad? They all read in the high 15V's when I last measured.

I did also confirm that the 12V is being charged when the car is on. It's 12.2V at idle, but jumps up to 13.9V when the engine is revved up. The red 12V battery light on the dash remains on however.

 

Sent you an email. You have to hold in the charging range for about 4-5 seconds before the red light will shut off.

 

Success!! I diagnosed the orange plug and got the following voltages from the pins:

B6-B14 = 15.84V
B14-B5 = 15.85V
B5-B13 = 16.02V
B13-B4 = 15.80V
B4-B12 = 15.92V
B12-B11 = 15.80V
B7-B1 = 0V
B1-B8 = 0V
B8-B2 = 15.82V
B2-B9 = 15.88V
B9-B3 = 15.85V

But I had previously checked all the wires' continuity, so how is B1 getting no voltage? Wait, what is this? Ah ha!

 

Crazy. How the heck did that happen?

BTW... meant to mention it earlier. Have you considered grid charging and deep discharging the whole pack? I've done a LOT of stick work (7 packs worth), and I can definitively say, there is way more bang for the buck working at the pack level.

 

I must have tightened it too much and it twisted counterclockwise when I unscrewed it. Looks like a pretty delicate connection to begin with, a couple others are barely hanging on.

I've thought about grid charging, but I live in a condo and don't have a power outlet in the parking lot. My only remedy for now is to remove the pack once in a while and carry it up to the third floor to take it apart. I've gotten pretty efficient at it!

 

I'm probably lucky given the number of times I've taken packs apart/reassembled them... and the fact that I use an electric drill to expedite it both ways.

The issue is the amount of time it takes to recondition sticks. I don't know your method, but I use 2X 20A regenerative dischargers capable of charging stock pairs at about 15-16A and discharging a pair at 20A. If you're not dealing with discharge capacities in the 10+A range, you're not getting any idea of stick health or really doing anything worthwhile at all besides simply balancing the sticks, and balancing can be very effectively done at the pack level. With near constant attention, it takes about 11 hours to triple cycle all pairs, plus removal, disassembly, assembly and install time.

Given my experience with stick refurb, I have found cycling does almost nothing compared to a single deep discharge IF the sticks are suffering from voltage depression as is typical of packs with frequent recals or throwing codes. Typical capacity improvement with a single pack deep discharge is 20-25%. Additionally, it's very important that you do an as-removed capacity test IF you must do stick work. I have found it is the single most telling indication of stick health.

You can build a grid charger and a discharger for about $75. Instead of disassembling the pack and working with each stick or pair, you can simply grid charge the pack to peak voltage (typically less than 24 hours), discharge to < 2V with light bulbs and recharge with the car to max SoC. It can be done easily over a weekend.

Good luck!

Steve

 

I have the same issue with my IMA battery. How did you solve the problem? thanks.
Particularly what did that picture mean. thanks.

 

The picture shows a break between the square terminal under the bolt and the thin trace just below it. Those should be connected.

The MCM isn't getting tap voltage data as a result. IMA disabled.

 

Thank you Steve, I really appreciate the quick response. Thanks.

 

Well those little wires. The brown things are temperature sensors or diodes. The thing is, you need to solder these and when tightening, be VERY careful.