What you describe is essentially normal.

First, the hybrid system is essentially a kinetic energy recovery system - translates your forward motion into stored chemical energy in the battery instead of bleeding it off as heat in the brakes. The car does not benefit significantly from any kind of "all electric" operation - only the plugin hybrids do. Efficiency is gained when the stored chemical energy is used to "boost" or replace the gas engine power when the gas engine is operating at very low efficiency (when at a stop or accelerating).

Second, consider also that a full battery is NOT the goal. A truly healthy HCH2 battery will tend to operate in the 5-7 bar range. A full or near-full battery can't always accept the full current from max regen, so you will lose efficiency with a full battery.

Generally, and particularly at idle, when there are no green bars, there is no charging. Charging is only done when the tap voltages indicate they need to be charged. Generally, 2 SoC bars will dictate charging, but not always. The car will almost never charge at idle between 3 and 8 bars.

Keep in mind that charging at idle is not necessarily the most efficient. The hybrid system is designed to optimize efficiency. When SoC is low, it greatly decreases the amount of assist you will get from the system. It favors regen strongly, and it will select more efficient ways to charge, i.e., when you're crusing along at 45 mph, you will get some background charge even if it doesn't appear on the charge gauge. At 45mph, your mpg can be very high, so pulling an amp or two off the gas engine isn't going to adversely impact performance.

When charging of NiMH cells is terminated, voltage drops fast.

Regardless, you are clearly dealing with a pack suffering from very rapid SD. The fact that you don't have an IMA light or CEL indicates that the pack as a whole is suffering from this, and it likely needs to be replaced. Pack level grid charge/discharge may improve it, but it may not.

 

Hola, a parte de lo que te han indicado los compañeros sobre la polaridad de las baterías.
Ves colocando los tornillos por secciones, creo que son 3 secciones, colocas una entre el negativo y la siguiente, tendras unos 15V, luego colocas otra y tienes 30V, otra, 45V, vas sumando si al colocar alguna la tension baja, significa que esa no suma la tensión, sino que resta, la inviertes.
Al final del todo tienes que tener 11 x 15V aproximadamente, a mi me salio unos 170V, nuevas.
compré las azules y verdes el terminal del verde es el negativo y el del azul el positivo (creo recordar), recuerda apretar correctamente todos los terminales.
lo bueno en estas baterías que hasta que no colocas 3 tornillos no se unen entre sí y den los 170V, también el contactor te desconecta el negativo y el interruptor el positivo, limpia los terminales , coloca un poco de vaselina de contactos sí puedes.
Observa que el Convertidor DC DC funcione correctamente, a veces dejan de funcionar cuando ya las baterias estan muertas durante mucho tiempo. Te generaria un error distinto al P1570. Ese convertidor DC DC si se estropea suele ser uno de los Mosfet 5N3003, creo que es el cuarto , el que está hacia el centro del módulo. Yo lo cambié y puse baterías nuevas.
solucione los errores y ahora funciona todo correctamente.
utiliza algunos guantes , toda precaución es poca.

el conector naranja llega a los 3 sensores de temperatura de las baterias .