2007 Civic Hybrid110,000 Miles
Remanufactured hybrid battery installed 1.5 years ago at 92,000 Miles. I cannot get a warranty replacement of the remanufactured battery, so I need to diagnose/fix myself.
12v battery is newish and in good condition - reads 12.15v


Problem: I was in the middle of a drive and came to a stop. Engine cut out as usual, but when I went to go, the battery light, check engine light, and IMA light all came on at the same time and the car did not auto start as usual. Turned off and back on and the lights were still on, but engine starts the 12v battery. No IMA assist at this point.


With a few more drives, the IMA and battery lights did occasionally go off (check engine stayed on) and I did get IMA assist. It quickly reverted back to all three lights, however, with no assist. Has been like this for quite a few drives now, so I don't see it coming back.


Took it to Honda, who would not diagnose the problem due to the aftermarket battery, but they did pull the DTC codes. First test: P0A7F and P1515. Cleared codes and performed software update. Second test: P1515 and P0AE1.


I pulled the rear seat and battery panel to do some tests. With ignition in on position, the +/- terminals (connected to inverter) on the battery read 15v. With engine on and idling, it reads around 75v. This is regardless of the IMA battery switch being on or off. Power looks to come from the IMA engine and inverter.


When turning the ignition to the on position, I hear two clicks back to back. The first is higher pitched and second lower. I'm not an expert on relays or electricity, but it sounds like the relay on the IMA battery is clicking on and immediately off again.


Given the P0AE1 code (Hybrid/EV Battery Precharge Contactor Circuit), is this the fix?
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~contactor~precharge~1e160-rmx-003.html?Make=Honda&Model=Civic&Year=2007&Submodel =&Filter=(bt=4%2c316;et=2%2c4)&Location=ima-main-switch-junction-board,2157446,8


Ideas welcome! Thanks.

 

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Seattle.

 

P0A7F is the gotcha. You have a bad battery. P1515 has me stumped. i can't find it in my Honda Service Manual at all.

P0AE1 sometimes gets thrown when the pack doesn't energize.

Probe the back of the plug that connects the battery to the BCM via an the orange cable. Do not unplug the connector. Probe where the wires go into it.

Record and report the 11 voltages (pins 6 and 14 are at the bottom):

 

Tested with the car and battery both off. All connections read 15.6v.

According to the website below, p1515 is "Electric Current Circuit."
http://www.thinksystemsdiagnostics.c...0-p1999-codes/

 

I'm going with a typo or an invalid code. They occasionally throw a weird one.

Why only to the tenths place? Did you record all 11? Write them down to the hundredths and make sure you didn't make a mistake. This matters.

For a reconditioned pack to last 1.5 years, you have made off like a bandit.

Again, the first code the dealer pulled was P0A7F - bad battery. P0AE1 occasionally pops up when multiple other codes get pulled.

Honda not listed here:

http://www.autocodes.com/p1515.html

Listed here:

http://www.dtcsearch.com/P1515/

However, again, I'm telling you, P1515 doesn't appear in the Honda service manual. Not a Haynes or Chilton, but the Honda published Service Manual.

Any chance this is P1575, P1574 or P1570 and not P1515? All three of those can disable the pack as you are observing and trip a false P0AE1.

 

BTW... 12.15V on the 12V is REALLY low. Recheck it at the terminals in the morning after sitting all night.

 

You caught me being lazy and rounding. Thought you were just looking for a dead connection.

6-14: 15.61
14-5: 15.56
5-13: 15.67
13-4: 15.67
4-12: 15.62
12-11: 15.62
7-1: 15.73
1-8: 15.63
8-2: 15.63
2-9: 15.67
9-3: 15.63

Are we talking about the same thing with reconditioned/remanufactured? It was a remanufactured battery. My understanding was that the cells were all new and this thing should have lasted for as long as the original. It's a Dorman 587-004.

DTC Codes from Honda attached.

 

Ah... too often reman/recondition/refurb means tested/used sticks. Those are impressively tight being from 15.56 to 15.73. Less than 0.2V is good. I now do not believe it is the battery, or at least not the battery subpacks.

Why can't you get a replacement? Was it not 3 years at the time? Not transferable to future owners?

I would focus initially on your 12V. 12.15V is between 25 and 50% SoC or indicative of a weak/failing cell. Per my previous post, I recommend you check OCV Monday morning with the car off. Anything less than 12.6V is suspect.

Additionally, If you haven't already, I would disconnect your 12V for 60 seconds and reconnect to see if the codes clear/behavior changes.

If your 12V battery is more than a few years old, I would just replace it as a matter of course. Replace the 151R with a higher capacity 51R. It will fit once you've thrown away all the plastic shrouds for the 151R.

A failing cell on a 12V can wreak havoc on the IMA system. If voltage is too low, it can't cycle the relay properly and the various ECUs puke on the low voltage.

Do NOT assume your 12V is good until you have full-on load tested it.

Steve

 

Well would you look at that - you, sir, are correct. 12v was wreaking havoc.

Tested it this morning. Started at 11.97v and mysteriously creeped up as I held the multimeter on it until I pulled it off around 12.08v. Weak either way. Pulled up my Highlander and tested its battery. 13.97v. Hooked it up, running, to the Honda and started. IMA and Battery lights are gone but check engine is still there. IMA battery shows as charging. Turned everything off and unhooked the Honda 12v to reset the system. Hooked Honda 12v back up and again jumped with the Highlander. Now all lights are gone.

I'll pick up a new 51R. Now lets hope the battery is actually bad and not that the charging of the battery is bad.

Really appreciate your help on this!