If you're getting nervous like that, you need new stands. I have never felt the least bit uncomfortable having just the front propped up, the hand-brake set, and blocks behind the rear wheels. The jack points are roughly 12in (30cm) off the ground, which gives me plenty of space to work in.

 

Took your advice, mmrmnhrm: picked up four 6-ton jackstands for $45CAN per pair. They have height range roughly 15"-24", and a much wider and more solid stance. Much more substantial and more reach compared to my 2-tons. Have also thought through the lifting strategy a bit more: when raising the whole car on jackstands, raise the front a bit, then the back a bit more, do it in 3~4 stages. It's when you try to make to dramatic a lift in one step that the jacks start shifting.

To have just enough room to swing the engine compartment shield down at the hinge point, you need to raise the car 14". The shield will still touch down a little before vertical, but it's just the localized tabs at it's leading edge, and the whole shield can flex a little when you push it back a little more.

I keep thinking this is a bit of effort, just to avoid taking out the extra fasteners and taking the shield completely off, but you do get better clearance, and it's handy if you want to swap/rotate tires or service brakes while you're at it.

And for cheap insurance: if you have a set of 4 extra wheels (either your snow or summer tires), put a couple under there on both sides, under the frame, not the wheels.

 

I'm not sure I understand why one would want to put the car up on jack stands for oil maintenance.

Personally, I just drive the car up on ramps for the Oil change portion, and then when that is done, I put the car down and then I just lift the car from the A pillar jack point to get the front and rear tires off the ground and then rotate them.

I have been doing the way forever, and have never had a problem.

As for removing the bottom covers, I use a special tool that I got at the hardware store. It is a tack puller.

 

Since you should rotate your tires during an oil change, just make it easy and put the car up on jack stands. I jack one side at the A-pillar position shown below, slide two jack stands in (front and back), and then the other side. Simple. Makes getting the underside panel off a lot easier.

I use a 4 ton low-profile Craftsman jack, and 3 ton jack stands. I can grab the A-pillar and shake the car and it won't budge. Solid.

 

Did my first oil/filter change (15%) level, after removing the bottom pan I decided to cut two holes for future changes. All went well except I didn't place the collection pan back far enough, The 0 weight oil shot out like a high pressure hose. Then after re-reading the manual finally got the reset to 100% I was done except I don't think my opening for the oil pan nut is large enough to handle the oil flow. will have to build a diverter for the next change. To messy to rebuild my closure plate for the oil plug hole.