So, I have a 28 mile commute each way. Currently I drive a 2017 Honda Ridgeline but want to buy a used hybrid and save the Ridgeline from racking up excess miles as it is our tow vehicle for our travel trailer.

I ran across this HCH.... https://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/...398061867.html for $1600. I would offer less... maybe $1100-1200. I has 147K miles and I am not sure why it has a salvage title.

I am very adept at my own auto repairs (brakes, cylinder heads, exhaust, fuel pumps, etc.) and am not afraid to tackle a hybrid battery replacement. In fact I plan on it. But, if I were to get a Bumblebee replacemnt battery or similar I would be into this vehicle for about $3200-3400. This would be less than the going rate on craigslist for a 2006-2007 HCH that is claimed to be properly running.

So, if I do a quality battery replacement (and I suspect a DC-DC converter replacement too) _AND_ I do regular grid charges, or similar preventive battery maintenance, would it be reasonable to assume that this revamped hybrid system would function for a fair length of time and give me a reliable vehicle (assuming that all other traditional car systems are kept in order)? I would hope to get 3-4 years from the vehicle during spring-summer-fall. I would drive the AWD Ridgeline in the winter months. I estimate the hybrid would be used for about 15K miles/year.

I'm going to drive the Ridgeline through this winter for my commute so I can wait on finding the right used hybrid. I do want to get one prior to spring so I can work on getting it in a very reliable state for my commute. I suspect that I will be told by those here to look for a used Prius but I thought I'd ask if there is still a way to make a HCH work as a money saving commuter vehicle, especially if I can get one for a low price.

Thanks for a great forum,

Paul.

 

If you're okay with the costs involved, it's not terrible. The 3-4 year time frame is a realistic expectation.

I've had two. One I sold at somewhere around 220K and another at 150K. I liked the cars, but I hated their batteries. Bumblebee is a good choice for replacement.

The 12V charging failure is very possibly IMA battery related. The IMA battery can appear so bad to the BCM that the DC-DC is disabled. It depends on the DTC.

I commuted 32.5 miles each way for 2 years in my HCH2. It was recalibrating like a mad thing and took forever to throw its first IMA light, BUT I still managed low to mid 40s with recals every 10 minutes.

 

Thanks for the reply S Keith. I am leaning toward this vehicle if it checks out OK in the non-hybrid areas. I'd rather buy a vehicle for a lower price and add a new hybrid battery system. I still would be below local market pricing for an equivalent vehicle. My biggest concern is that the seller states that the IMA is fine and shows pics with a full charge and either assist or charge being present on the IMA display. But, could these pics be just prior to a recal where the charge dives down to zero?

He posts that the 12V issue has now gotten to the point that he has to recharge the 12V battery and can only get about 20 miles out of it. Sounds like the DC-DC converter is not sending anything to the 12V battery. This in my mind is either the converter is defective or the hybrid battery is really not providing any meaningful power to the converter. Is this thinking correct?

Paul.

 

I have never seen an HCH2 gauge actually read zero unless the BCM had been reset with a 12V disconnect.

In normal operation, you will never see less than 3 bars. A recal is indicated by 2 bars.

Given that there is no IMA light, the 12V charging issue is either 12V itself or the DC to DC.

DC-DC usually throws a code and results in a CEL. I would scrutinize the 12V itself before concluding it's the DC-DC.

 

I'll take my bluetooth OBD dongle and use Torque to read codes. Do you know which codes would be DC-DC converter related?

Paul.

 

I have used the ELM327 bluetooth dongles with Torque extensively. You can't count on them to pull hybrid specific codes.

P0A94 is DC-DC output low voltage. It will not trip the IMA light, but it should give a CEL.

Make absolutely certain that CEL and IMA lights come on when key is on before starting.

 

I took a look at the 2006 HCH2. Unfortunately I forgot to take my ELM dongle. So, no codes were obtained. There was not check engine light. Just the 12V battery warning light. He had charged the battery so with vehicle off the battery read 12.9V. With vehicle running it read 12.3V. He states that he can go about 20 miles before needing to charge the 12V battery. On the test drive the IMA system and hybrid battery appeared to work properly. I suspect the DC converter or a connnection from the DC converter is at fault. Any other ideas??

The IMA battery went from 2 bars at rest to all bars in about 4-5 miles of driving. It didn't employ the IMA electric motor until it had charged up to 4 bars. Auto-stop worked as expected. The vehicle started off the IMA system and did not use the 12V starter.

Any further thoughts before I consider an offer. I think I can get this vehicle for a fairly low price and if it is the DC converter I feel this would be a relatively easy fix. He replaced the battery one year ago with a Honda OEM battery.


Paul

 

You witnessed a recalibration of the IMA battery.

Sounds like DC-DC, but I would check all fuses first.

 

I failed to ask if he had just recharged the 12V. I assume he removes it frequently to recharge. Would this result in a recalibration of the IMA battery like I witnessed?

Paul.

 

When the 12V is pulled, the battery data is completely erased. Upon starting, the car displays zero bars and executes a calibration (different from a recalibration in that it's not recalibrating anything, it's calibrating from nothing).

It's possible you witnessed the tail end of a calibration.

However, it's also possible to charge the 12V in place, so I wouldn't necessarily assume he pulled it to charge, unless circumstances would demand it (apartment with no power nearby, etc.).