Have owned and drove my 2008 Tahoe hybrid from 50,000 to currently 120,000 without any real major issues.

Over the past year or so, we have noticed and felt the car progressively getting worse during slow/stopped driving. This happens often when driving very slowly in parking lots and also stop and go traffic. The car shakes and jolts with a thumping feeling and noise in the engine. Sometimes everything in the car just goes dead. You have to wait a couple seconds and restart the car to get it back on. It happened in the middle
of bumper to bumper traffic on the turnpike but we fortunately got it started again. This doesn’t happen at all when driving fast or on the highway. It drives smoothly and perfect. Mainly slow driving through parking lots and stop and go driving.

Are these symptoms of a bad battery?? The dealership has recently scanned the check engine light and mentioned ”hybrid battery” (although I don’t have the official code from them). They have also quoted $4300 for replace and repair.

I don’t know if they have physically “felt” the car acting this way. And I don’t even know if they would know what it was if they did notice it.

I guess I’m just trying to figure out if these are true “bad battery” symptoms. If so, do similiar owners have success and think it’s worth putting that kind of money into the vehicle?

Is is there a chance of replacing the battery and the car continuing to act this way?


Thank you all for your time and consideration.

 

(1) Yes, but you need the codes to make sure. Most dealers are incompetent when it comes to the hybrid models.

(2) Doesn't matter. The codes should tell the story.

(3) Yes. It's up to you. Do you intend to drive the wheels off it? If so, then yes. However, you should be able to find a dealer willing to install for about $3800. If you don't replace it, you have to factor in selling a vehicle that needs a $3800 repair.

(4) Depends on the code(s).

 

Thank you! I will get the codes from them and update.

 

Code updates from dealer:

P061A and P0BBD

Thank you

 

Please read this thread:


https://www.greenhybrid.com/forums/f...eration-30357/


Pay particular attention to Hillbilly.


While it gets pretty convoluted, he comes back around to the HV battery.

 

Great. I will read through. thank you!

 

Speaking from a man who was in almost complete denial, I can attest that this is more than likely a hybrid battery issue. It can be particularly irritating when your car stalls in an intersection, the codes come up, but by the time you get to a dealer, they're gone. At this point, depending on how much longer you plan to keep the vehicle, you have two options:


1) If you're in the East, try GreenBeanBattery.com. They can put in a reconditioned battery with a prorated 5 year warranty for $2,349. They will replace for free for 18 months, then 50% from 18-36 months, then 75% from 36-48 months, then 95% (useless by now) from 48-60 months. They claimed to me over the phone a 5% return rate. Expected life is 4-5 years, if that.


2) A dealer will charge $3,512 (current MSRP) for the battery plus 1-2 hours labor, so around $3750 + tax total. This will be a brand new battery that you can expect will last another 8-10 years.


3) Replace "bad" modules one at a time yourself and level charge it. Only if you really know what you're doing, and it may last 6 months or less before other modules need replacement.


I think the consensus from this group is option 2.


I would also take the opportunity while your vehicle is mechanically working well to get a FULL AND TOTAL ENGINE CLEANSE to get all the tiny oil ports thoroughly cleaned. DO NOT JUST ADD DETERGENT. These engines have a HIGH tendency to damage your cam shaft because of the AFM system. Detergent can dislodge sludge that can clog tiny ports. If the plastic tray that the lifters sit in crack, the lifters can get stuck. They will wear down the cam lobes and no longer be able to open or close your valves sufficiently, causing a misfire in your cylinders (P030x). This repair can cost $4-6K!

 

5% return rate after only being in business 9 months? That's actually horrible, and it's likely 2X that level. My warranty rate is 2.7% (3 out of 112) after 21 months in business in Phoenix, AZ. My only failures have been due to leaking modules, which is a problem nearly exclusive to the Phoenix-like regions.


The GreenBean prorated warranty is pretty bad. You should COUNT on at least one replacement in the 50% prorated period as a reconditioned pack is unlikely to last beyond 3-4 years - period (GreenBean likely doesn't know this). At that level, to get through 5 years, it's going to cost you $3500 or so. Compared to $3800 for a battery that is likely to last 2X as long and another 100K miles, GreenBean basically costs twice as much as new OEM when you look at the total life of the pack.

 

Thank you all for your advice and help.

My uncle is the parts manager at the local GM dealer where the truck has been serviced for years. I’m still waiting on a price for a new battery from him. Although one of the other salesman quoted me $4300.

My uncle claims to have found a used battery for $1200?? Quoting labor for another $750. 6 month warranty. Anyone have experience/issues with a used battery?

Thanks

 

Deal breakers:
1) If it's been sitting for 2+ months
2) > 80K miles
3) 40 modules resting voltage greater than 7.4V and 0.05V max deviation.


If the above are met, you're looking at $2000 for a battery that is unlikely to last 4-5 years vs. $4K for one that should last 8yr/100K+


$750 labor sounds OUTRAGEOUS UNLESS they are actually disassembling the battery and doing voltage/load tests on the 40 modules.


If they are just swapping packs, they are bending you over without a drop of lube.