Thanks for letting me know. I also wasn't sure if the AFM delete worked with a Hybrid. Now I know.

 

I have used a drywall screw to remove the pressure sensor screen in the oil passageway, works good for me, I am sure there is a special GM tool for that. Only problem is it is way at the back of the engine and a bit hard to see what you are doing. Seal leak on the camshaft thrust plate is internal to the engine it just drops oil back into the oil pan. AFM delete is a hotly debated subject on the forums. I have the ability to easily delete it with my programmer but I have chosen to keep it on and just do more frequent oil changes than the recommendation or OLM indicates to make sure the AFM system has the best chance of a long term lifespan. If my oil starts to look dark on the dipstick i just swap it out no matter what the miles are, I have changed it at less than 3k miles several time and yes OMG I use full synthetic (super wasteful haha). I know some people will squeal like a stuck hog that this is wasteful. Just my preference and for my peace of mind. Besides oil is recyclable. You guys do whatever you want LOL.

 

Interesting. Yeah I don't have a super fancy tool past just a bluetooth OBD2 reader or just the $35 scantools that will clear codes online, maybe I should invest in something better.

I also have a new development in the original thread's issue. This morning, I drove to work, the nav screen turned on as it usually does on a cold start. My father, being retired and 2000 miles away, is my personal assistant in solving this issue and found a lead online.

I parked the car, turned it off, opened the car door so the nav shut off, then closed it within 5 seconds, and then turned the car on. The nav popped right on. Next, I shut the car off, opened the car door, held it open for about 30 seconds, closed the car door, and then turned the car on. Nav screen didn't come on.

So leaving the door open for 30 seconds vs <10 caused the nav screen to shut off. Anyone with more electrical expertise know what that could mean?

In the meantime I'm going to replace my ignition switch because I'm aware that some of the startup accessories are tied to that and I've heard it's resolved some electrical issues. I've found a head unit package on Crutchfield as well that will retain my backup camera, my rear DVD and add apple carplay. I think if the ignition switch repair doesn't work I might order that and see what that does, I can always return it if no dice. It's $575 though which is pretty heavy. But it comes pre-wired for my car with no splicing which is huge. We'll see what happens.

 

I have no idea on the door open/close timing symptom. I guess that I would probably have to test that scenario a few times to satisfy myself that it was not just a coincidence?
575 bucks does not sound too bad, that much to me would be acceptable cost for a replacement if it worked well, On the AFM I just have a older Hypertech programmer that I have purchased a few years back. It allows for changing tire/sizes + turning on and off AFM. It also on certain models allows you to set the AFM to only come on above a set speed and that is a cool feature that i have used. I have run several trucks with loud dual exhaust systems and I like that you can still use AFM at highway speeds but do not have to put up with different low speed exhaust sounds when it swaps to 4cyl mode and back to V8. Sounds like a helicopter pulls up behind you in V4 LOL. It also allows for transmission shift point changes/economy modes/speed limiter changes etc. etc. It is a lot of fun to play with Haha Not that expensive as I remember maybe 200 bucks or something. Please keep the thread updated on the final fix.

 

I bought the AFM delete OBD2 by Range Tech. Pretty nifty tool, I plugged it in, in 5 seconds it turned solid color, and checking the info screen it does not appear to move to V4 anymore. Doesn't feel like it either. This Hypertech programmer seems like a cool bet though - do they still make them? The ability to run V4 on highways seems like a real good way to keep some level of gas savings without the constant strain on the lifters/cam that would happen at lower speeds.

So I ordered the head unit from Crutchfield which arrived - I'm torn between installing it or returning it. I really want to install it to see if that's the culprit but, NEW PROBLEMS!

I just got a battery code (P0BBD and P0AC4) which I've read denotes the 300v is on its way out. I cleared it, and haven't seen it come back in about a week. When I bought the car in mid January, there were no codes and I did not have any stored codes in it that were battery related when I took it to a hybrid shop to get it checked out. The autostop seems to work fine around 60-80% of the time. If I'm fairly light on the gas, I can get it up to 20ish without the ICE kicking on. But some times it runs crappy, autostop wont engage for the duration of a drive, it appears to hesitate from not moving when giving the gas even when its not coming out of autostop, and shuddering at low speeds. It usually runs crappy around midday when I take a lunch break at work... The car is black leather so maybe the heat of the car interior is making the battery run hot? I am going to try to unclog the vents of any dust that's in them this weekend. I'm in the mindset that it's all battery related because the transmissions on these trucks from what I've read seem bulletproof and the engines are fine too.

I'm starting to be more and more convinced that it's the stereo that's messed up, and just the stereo. I have none of these electrical issues others are reporting, and the cruise seems to be fixed by the brake switch sensor replacement. But if I don't return the stereo it would likely be another month or two before I would be able to afford a hybrid battery replacement. I think I'm going to go with GreenBean. I've read some pretty solid things about them, and with the updated 5 year unlimited miles / no prorated warranty + home installation I think it might be a good call.

For you or any one else who has had to replace batteries - do you think that the code is a sign that it could go to **** real quick? Or would it be something that I could back-burner until I got a little $$$ saved up? Overall pretty stoked on the truck - at 95k on the odo it appears lots of you have 50k miles or more over me and not having crazy issues. I paid $14k for it which I think was a good value even if I've got to put some work into it. Oh well. I'll let you guys know if I decide to put in this head unit or not.

 

I think the Hypertech is still available but it is probably overkill if all you want is the AFM delete. I have heard good things about the range device. Only bad thing I had heard was some people complained that it would run the battery down if left plugged up when not driving for long periods of time? That was on the GM truck forum...
If you install the new head unit that you bought and still have the same problem can you still return it? I know some manufacturers will not allow that on electrical/electronic devices?
On your POAC4 and POBBD codes I had those exact 2 codes about 3 weeks ago, I related it to using the rear power supply to run a air compressor as it went away after a couple of drive cycles. (probably wishful thinking LOL) It drove FUNNY like you described when the codes popped up, it would hesitate from stop and jump and jerk plus I got a high rev a couple of times when decelerating, really weird stuff that had never happened before. It is driving just fine right now after the codes went away. I do have a replacement hybrid battery on hand that came in yesterday. I plan on swapping tomorrow morning and then running some tests on the old battery pack modules. I am really curious to see how many of the 40 modules will be use-able. If you would like to hold off for a week or so (maybe yours will drive just fine like mine is doing right now?) I will try to get the individual module tests done and post them as soon as possible. I am waiting on Jaime to send me some info on how he did his tests so that I can do identical tests (as much as possible) like he did in his thread, so the data will be a good comparison to what he had. .Jaime's battery modules were shown to be badly deteriorated, that is the main reason I went ahead and bought a replacement battery. I figured mine was also pretty bad at 10 years old and 200k miles. I am super excited to see how it drives with a new battery and can hardly wait till morning to swap it. On the replacement battery it came from Best hybrid battery in the Chicago area. The guy that I spoke with Mike assured me that they were all NEW modules that had never been used and emailed me pics of some of the modules showing the serial numbers. The pic he sent was showing modules coded as 2016 vintage. That makes me suspicious but hoping he is not just flat out lying. I have no way to verify as the replacement battery has seals on the case and if I remove the top and break the seals to check it that will void the 3 year warranty. I guess I will just have to trust them? It was 2649 + 140 shipping to my location. Return label for returning the core is included in their price. I had tried to order one from a dealership at 3100 + 450 shipping but the parts guy explained to me that it was going to be "a lot of work for them" to find one? I lost confidence in the dealership after getting the run around for a couple of weeks and went with Best Hybrid.

 

Oh yeah if you're going to run some tests I'll definitely hold off and see what you come up with. My car is totally drivable. Just got some idiosyncracies with slower driving. For example, I had to drop off some camera equipment in town today and it only went into autostop after about 20 minutes on the freeway, and even then it would kick into ICE the second I gave it more than a feather on the pedal. But driving home from work, it was in autostop any time I got below 20mph. Interesting you say you were running a compressor though - I tried using a coffee pot from the back supply while camping a month back and it seemed to be too high power for the supply and shut off (though the coffee grinder worked just fine??). Glad someone's in a similar boat, though it's definitely interesting that yours is acting funny at 200k and mine's acting up at 95k. Though from what I gather these batteries are largely affected by things like climate, how they're driven, how often they're driven, how well the cars are maintained, and whatnot. It may not be out of the ordinary that mine is going at 95 and yours lasted for so long. Excited to see your results. Also, let me know about the install process - I'm not opposed to doing the job myself if it's not too involved / doesn't involve any reprogramming, especially if I could save a few bucks. I'm not the best DIYer out there but I'm also no stranger to messing around inside an engine bay. And finally, would love to hear how the new battery runs if you get it installed. I think in terms of longevity it's a solid bet, it seems to be one of the most costly failure points of the car but once fixed it lasts for awhile.

 

I will try to remember to take a few pics as i remove it to post up. It looks like it will be good access going out the back hatch (this battery pack is heavy I would guess it is well over 200lbs) ) I will have to pull the third row seats. I have never had them out but it looks like a simple track system. Before I start I am going to disconnect the 12V battery under the hood. It will be an interesting morning....................
Have a great night.

 

OK git the new battery pack swapped in. Good news is once the rear seats are out in a GM SUV there is plenty of room to slide it right out and new one in easily. It is definitely over 200 lbs making it a 2 person job though. it could be done by one person but your back would be complaining for a while. I started at around noon (cold here early this morning!) It was less than an hour to swap the packs with a helper. FIRST REMOVE THE ORANGE DISCONNECT PLUG every body knows this just make sure you do that. I checked the connections on the exterior of the pack and there was 0 voltage once the orange disconnect is pulled. Couple of tips: the plastic exhaust air elbow has a little plastic pin in the center that pulls out. The approx 18 pin electrical plug right beside the plastic exhaust is a weird little lever plug, if you pull straight up on the lever and wiggle it the lever forces it off. I used some cardboard on the rear deck to slide the old battery out and new one in that keep the metal battery case from scratching up your plastic seat bases plus it slides easily. I used the Tahoe to make a trash run a few minutes ago after the replacement was done and I can tell that it stays in auto stop longer and seems to do quite a bit more electric assist when driving down the road. Like I mentioned mine was actually driving pretty good. I am just really curious as to how much the old modules are deteriorated and wanted it to drive like new. Yes i know that is a lot to ask of a 10yr old +200k vehicle LOL.
Since I only have approx 16 miles so far on the new battery it is really not enough driving time to tell fro me to tell much of anything about it yet.
I have the old battery opened up and the busbars pulled off. Ready to do some testing on the modules but I am still not sure what device to use yet. So far I have just checked the voltages on each of the 40 modules and they are all very close to being the same. I took a pic of the sheet where I jotted them down.......

 

Great! looks like you got a head start. Now you can enter those voltages into the spreadsheet I posted in the other thread. I would recommend waiting a few days before doing any discharging/charging to see if the voltages change due to self-discharging. Any modules that change too much from the initial voltage readings would indicate modules in worse condition.