These codes are for the ScangaugeII by Linear Logic:
http://www.scangauge.com/products/scangaugeii/

They run about $170 direct from Linear Logic.

Winchester also posted some other codes - the most useful for me so far are the SOC and the battery amperage flow.

You can use the Blend Mount for this also - the same Blend Mount we discussed in the Valentine1 thread (and I think I posted a picture of the Scangauge mounted on the read view).

 

How long does the battery in a 2008 Yukon Hybrid last. I'm thinking of buying one with 65,000 miles

 

300k miles= a very long time!

 

Digging a little deeper here, any idea how well the battery performs over its entire life span compared to new? Poor example probably, but the battery on my iPhone becomes less effective at holding a charge to the point I need to make a decision how much I can tolerate reduced functionality before sending it to Apple.

 

how much will it cost to replace a fuel vapor-containment valve. codes p2450

 

uhhhg I like the comment 200,00 miles or better at least there is a base line of time and miles to guage a battery most do not have any battary experience other then 9 volt or 12 volt car battery ....just a newbie comment .but also the truck should have a indicator as to if the battery is operating as it is suppose to ..

 

You can't just poke a probe in these batteries and test them. I dont think the scan tools will tell you much about the battery health either until it is graveyard dead or near it. I was looking into this I ran across a company in Virgina that will recondition your battery for a lot less than a new one. I also found a site in which one man has taken his battery apart and reconditioned it himself for about $55 for a charger/conditioner and $500 for a junkyard battery for good cells. The cells in the battery need to be tested under load and doing that on the entire battery is not very practical or safe. All the sites I have found break the battery down into sticks of 7 volts or so and test those individually, replacing bad ones, recharging good ones. The DIY guys system used a charger designed for RC batteries and took him a couple of months to recondition the whole battery.

 

Load testing to find the bad cell is fairly simple, hook a halogen bulb up to the 7 volt battery and watch the voltage drop. A good cell should loose .1-.2 volts over 10 seconds, a bad cell will loose considerably more. Once the bad cell is found pull it and replace it with a good from ebay that is roughly the same year/condition. Then 'level' the cells, hook all positives together and hook all the negatives together and let them sit and settle to the same voltage. After about 24 hours all the cells should be pretty close to the same voltage 6.8-7.2 V and you should be able to put the battery back together and hook it up in the car. To really recondition the battery you need to break down the entire battery and charge-discharge each 7 volt cell and like was said above this takes up to a month if you only have one charger. The ECU will charge-discharge the cells and bring them up to snuff while driving, so unless the battery has been sitting idle for several months the charge-discharge step is not really a must.

 

Paul, the scan tool can read the 20 internal volt-meters. A single bad cell can be traced to an individual "pair" of 7V modules.

GM used NiMh in EV-1 and did lots of "leveling" of the cells back than. That knowledge was built into these Panasonic packs.

So a single bad cell is usually what brings these down. Most dealers do NOT want to diagnose, just swap expensive parts.

 

you can use Torque on an Android cell phone (get a older model and dedicate it to the vehicle). Here is my Torque screenshot for 12 of the 20 voltages.