Need wiring digram for Tahoe Hybrid.

Specifically ignition and "Autostop" circuit.

 

Ignition wiring from key to body controller and all relays pretty much same as normal Tahoe. Things like remote start etc. same. Sorry but Autostop is not a wire you can switch, cut, modify, or rewire.

 

Should have been more specific:

With "On demand" HHO you only want the HHO generator operating when the engine is actually ON. In a normal Tahoe this would be any hot wire from the ignition ON position.

However in the Tahoe Hybrid I must select a wire (or fuse position to tap) that is ONLY HOT when the engine is running, and OFF in Autostop mode. This would be like the fuel pump circuit for example (I'm assumimg the fuel pump shuts OFF in Autostop mode).

List of possibles:
- Fuel pump (may NOT be the case as pump is activated before engine is switched ON to pressurize system just before start/restart)
- injectors
- electric water pump...maybe but probably not....probably keeps running and is temperature dependant.

Looking at the owners manual and the Hybrid manual; likely fuses in the underhood fuse block would be:
- 13 Rt. side fuel injectors, ignition coils
- 24 Lt. side fuel injectors, ignition coils

Looks like I'm going to have a discussion with a GM mechanic and be looking at the service manual just to be sure.

 

Of all the circuits listed above a NOT of the electric water pump would probably work best. There is a relay under hood in a second and smaller electrical fuse and relay box forward of the engine. The electric pump runs only when the engine is off and it may not care about outside temperature. There is a dedicated lead from the engine computer to turn that relay on. The relay itself actually completes the ground. That circuit can only drive about 2 amps so another relay should be used. If you pull those gray box relays you will see a sort of circuit schematic molded in the under side.

The fuel pump is pulse width modulated not simply on or off. You would need a threshold type device. The relay labled pump may not ever change state.

Now the part I want to ask you. I have yet to see any peer review scientific data on HHO systems showing that they work. So since it is an energy loser from a thermal-dynamics and chemisttry perspective, does it change the burn of the other fuel? Does it allow for the engine controller to put in more Less fuel? etc.

Don't be afraid to point me to some very dry scientific and combustion institute published papers. I have co-authored many.

Good luck.

 

"On demand" HHO

are you talking about "cracking" water into its components h and o? I would find it hard to believe that you could generate enough energy to make the system increase to any benefit...unless you have developed a new breakthrough technology....in which case if it works i'll invest!

 

Here is a little math. 30amps at 13.5 volts is 405 Watts or 0.54 Horsepower. Assuming a generous 80% efficient alternator I need to have 0.675 shaft horsepower to run the device. A "typical" modern gasoline engine has a Brake Specific Horsepower of ~ 0.456 pounds of gasoline per horespower hour.

0.456*0.675 = ~ 0.31 pounds of fuel per hour to supply the 30amp device. So figure about 0.05 gallons per hour engine consumption to power a 30 amp load. Feel free t ouse this math to calculate X-box and other electrical loads and how it impacts fuel economy. The 0.456 is a long proven dyno number. Carburetors at their "best" were just above a half pound per HP hour. Or more.

So to just supply electricity to the 30 amp load you will give up about 1.5% of your near 20 mpg. Any math or dyno data on the upside would be appreciated.

 

I'll be testing the fuse block circuits tomorrow to see which one(s) to use.

Plasma electrolysis to produce H2H2O2 from electrolyte.

Not quite sure, and I'll have research this, but I think we have at least a 120 amp alternator if not the HD 160 amp alternator. SO........IF I turn on the headlights, A/C full blast, fog lights, Nav/radio, Cruise control, wipers, interior lights, run a movie on the CD player all at the same time my MPG will go down ??!! I've never noticed that. I get the same MPG on a given road at the same speed during the day with the DTRL OFF as I do at night with the high beams ON. I guess I should pay more attention to beeping the horn at night for fear I might drop my MPG. Seriously, with all the accessories on it only draws about 20 amps. The alternator has enough reserve to handle another 30 amps. The alternator is putting out (or capable of) 120 amps wether or not your using them or not.

Now if you are using a gasoline engine to turn a genorator ,to run an HHO genorator, to produce HHO and then use it to say heat your house or fire up your BBQ grill then there may be a net loss (use of HP to run that electrical generator) But what if the HHO is returned to run the gasoline engine.....I know..... Law of Thermodynamics

If a "typical" gasoline engine is only 45% efficient what happens to the other 55% (of fuel). Its burned in the Catalytic converter. Now there's a loss (waste) in efficiency. Older gasoline engines were only 20% efficient until computer cointrol and "fast burn" cylinder heads were develop. What if I could improve the flame front and make the fuel charge burn FASTER and hotter (but for a shorter period) INCREASING EFFICIENCY. Thats just what the HHJO does by adding 02 and Hydrogen to the fuel....hmmm seems vaguely familiar to NOS. So its no longer your "typical" half assed efficient engine.

I really did not want to debate this issue until after I did my installation and test. Hey it may not work. BTW the "on demand' HHO generator I'm looking at can produce up to 6 L/min of HHO. Wait a minute by adding the weight of the H2 and O2 to the fuel mix you would effectively lean the gasoline mixture and use less gasoline.....Ah there's the rub.

 

Ah, the old catalytic converter conspiracy ... one that actually happens to be true.

Why fuel injected engines have them, actually waste fuel and pollute more to use them, is still a mystery.

Probably regulatory ineptitude/laziness more than conspiracy ... unless the 'big platinum' cabal (read Draconian blood lines) has re-emerged.

But I digest ...

 

@ HillBilly: I don't have any papers in my hand at the moment but you can Google "HHO justification" and see references pro and con from Meyer, Univ of Idaho, MIT , Univ of Michigan and others. Local Penn State branch here just won the national high mileage competition using a modified Briggs and Straton 5 HP motor using a mix of fuels. +1000 MPG in a very light weight vehicle. Solar > electric > generate HHO + gasoline > gasoline engine + electric motor assist....a true Hybrid.

@HyHoe: suprisingly I've seen data on less emissions with HHO and a cleaner running engine and almost no need for a catalytic converter.

 

All my results will be anecdotal with a pre dyno (OEM) vs post dyno results.
Goals:
1. Significant increase in MPG
2. Increase in HP/Torque
3. Increased efficiency and cost effectiveness Ie. Which improvements or combination have the best effect per money spent.

Phase I: (Base Line) New Silver tip sparkplugs, Race wires, High flow cold air box, 1,700 cfm high flow non-oiled air filter with 5 micron sock, OEM MAF, High flow intake tube. Stock tune but checked for optimization.

Phase II: with "On Demand" 6L/min HHO, stock tune with ONLY "Idle ReLearn" recalibration. introduction post MAF / pre throttle body. NO EFIE or PW modulator.

5,000 mile proof of concept road test

Phase III: Post throttle body introduction via throttle body spacer (NOS type needle sprayer)

Phase IV: Post throttle body introduction with multi circumferential port throttle body spacer.

Phase V: Delete rear exhaust resonator. Add tail pipe with twin exits.

Phase VI: CAT back performance exhaust

Phase VII: 102mm throttle body and performance intake manifold. May require ECU reprogramming.