I'm not sure that I understood everything correctly. But I checked all the fuses and relays. I also put a new 12v battery.

 

 

​​​​I bought a scanner what you said and made a diagnosis that showed the charge of the hybrid 213v battery.I tried to clear the error codes but they are not deleted. I also tried to reprogram the modules but with this scanner it is impossible.
​​​​​​I also disconnected the connectors on the transmission trying to find bad contacts, but everything is in ok.
I do not even know it makes sense to remove the transmission pan and check the wiring harness inside?!

 

A hybrid battery at 213V is completely dead. There are 240 cells. For a prismatic module to drop below 1V/cell, it's pretty much a death sentence. When the battery is EMPTY, but can still properly hold a charge, you will NOT see a voltage less than 288V. A battery with some usable charge that has sat for a year will still read greater than 296V.

I can only conclude the vehicle sat for so long, the already tired HV battery completely discharged.

There is NO way to reliably diagnose the vehicle with the HV battery in that state.

 

Still not sure of the background of the vehicle? Regardless of that, if your battery voltage check is correct then the source of your problem is most likely a completely dead Hybrid battery pack, not the $6,000.00 transmission. That is actually good news as a replacement battery is much cheaper than a transmission. If you are in the Chicago area you might give Mike a call over at Best Hybrid Batteries just outside of Chicago (800) 770-8832 . I recently bought a new hybrid battery from them and so far it is doing OK. I currently have the old hybrid battery pack on my workbench doing some testing while waiting to see how the new one performs over the next few weeks. The old battery appears to be badly deteriorated from my preliminary test results. Hoping to be complete all the data gathering by the end of this weekend. It takes about 3 hours per module to test so 3 x 40 modules equals 120 man hours. My time is worth around $400.00 per hour so I will have around a $48,000.00 investment when done LOL (enough to buy 12 brand new batteries, or actually a entire new car) No problem though as I am happy to donate my time to contribute to the GreenHybrid forum knowledge base. Success is dictated by the ability to do better than good enough.

 

Purchase:

LPC-100-350
APC-35-350
400V+ 1A diode/rectifier

Install the diode in the (+) output lead of the LPC-100-350
Wire the LPC input to a suitable AC cord.

Remove the safety plug.
Open the battery.
Attach the DC out leads of the LPC-100-350 to the relays on the battery side.
Energize the LPC
Install the safety plug.
Charge until pack is at or near 286V
Remove the safety plug
De-energize the LPC
remove the (-) lead from the relay.
Wire the APC-35-350 output in series with the LPC, (-) to relay, (+) to (-) of LPC.
Wire their inputs in parallel.
Energize both supplies.
Install safety plug
Charge for the sooner of 6 hours or until the pack has warmed to the touch.
Remove safety plug
De-energize power supplies
Detach power supplies from battery.
Close battery
Install safety plug

Disconnect 12V for 2 minutes
Reconnect 12V

Profit

 

Thanks for this instruction, it looks very serious. I'm not sure that I understood every step, but I have a question Jump Assist mode do the same thing but on the factory settings?

 

No. According to this, jump assist won't work if the hybrid battery is less than 240V:

https://f01.justanswer.com/Bluegoril...ocument-10.pdf

The likelihood of your battery being salvageable is essentially zero, but it's probably worth $50 worth of power supplies and 8 hours (2 hr install, 6 hr charge) of your time to find out.

 

Yes, but one shouldn't. Charging at such a low rate is generally safe, but active cooling is required. Sadly the prescribed 6 hours may fully charge the battery, but the goal is to get a minimum (6 * 350)/6500 = 32% SoC.

 

In the instructions for jump assist there are mentions of high voltage contactor relays, you need to compare two battery readings and if the difference is more than 30 volts, it means that high voltage contactor ralays is not closed. Who can say something about this relay?
Because it shows completely different values when I check.