It's a little off-topic but you can see the trendlines.

The people who are thinking about the ramifications of what they're creating are very negative about the idea of anyone working on their cars or trucks for much longer. As everyone here knows, it's messy and difficult and takes way too much time, and besides that, how can you trust people to do the jobs right? You CAN'T.

https://europe.autonews.com/supplier...ric-car-demand

"After around 2025, when Yoshino predicts EVs will make up about 15 percent of new car sales worldwide, the auto industry will likely see electrification incorporated into car-sharing and self-driving vehicles, he said. "The ideal style for the future is people don’t own a car and a self-driving vehicle is coming whenever anyone wants to use the service."

That's the man who shared the 2019 Nobel Prize in Chemistry for Lithium-Ion batteries. His "ideal style for the future" is that you (meaning YOU and ME) do not (which means: CANNOT because it will be too expensive for most people) own a car, much less work on one. People who win the Nobel Prize are talking to the policymakers who are deciding what future you will live in through their incentives and international agreements. They don't slum around on forums like this one talking about repacking CV joints. Neither does Elon Musk, which I frankly think is the big reason why almost nobody talks about Tesla cars here on "Electric Vehicle Forums." The people who "own" Teslas do not want to work on their cars, and they basically cannot work on them. It's the last thing on their minds! That's why there are so few people interested in talking about them on this website. What can you do with your "own" Tesla except show it off, plug it in, and let Tesla fix it when it breaks?

Not much.

Pretty soon the Service Manuals will say: Page 1: "Imagine car picking you up with Internet Neuroconnect. Car comes. Get in. You do not fix car." End of manual.

 

What year Escape Hybrid? I got my 2006 PCED and all the other manuals off eBay, pretty cheaply

 

This is an 09. Wonder how it compares. Will probably be here in a week, who knows if the code will still.

Eh, not quite true. Look at rich rebuilds on youtube. Plenty tear apart teslas and fix flood damaged ones. The company itself is somewhat hostile but people got around it. I'm sure our "genius betters" have all kinds of plans they'd like to implement. They just tried one right now with the "great reset" and look how that turned out. Eating bugs and living in the pod isn't going to be popular nor can you trick everyone.

 

For today's fun. I silicon sprayed all the rubber. **** you ford and your "quality". The rear driver's side door seal is dead too. Both my junkyard ones are holding up so time to go find another. I also have my mercon LV and a hand transfer pump which will hopefully fit into the transfer case so I can finally do that one. Then all that will be left is the P2450 and MEK coolant plus the A/C. Also want to get a tow hook so I can get one of those bike racks that fit in and/or an extra shelf for camping. Almost want to go take the one I found on a mariner at the junkyard. Probably will when I do the door seal.

25.2 MPG and then I will check it when I hit 1/4 tank... I know I tanked up 10 gallons and set the trip meter.

 

Take some pictures of what you decide to do with the bike rack/hook thing. I'd like to see it.

Your mileage gets better every day, you've come a long way from NoStart/10MPG.

 

Well I ran around the part yard and scored the rest of the screws to my battery. Found out where all the batteries went... some company buys them. Got my weather strip and it's all nice now. Plus a dome light that I can turn off. I ripped all the bulbs out of the one in there originally. Going to replace with LED as soon as I can now that I can leave it off until needed.

For the hook stituation... all the escapes have 2 bolts or so I thought. I took them out only to see that the other tow hitch part is welded to the bumper. I'd have to take the WHOLE thing and cut my bumper fascia. Not sure about that yet. Maybe there is a hitch that just bolts on. I also looked for a/c parts and a new ring for my steering column. Found a broken up one and a black steering wheel... but I have no idea on how to JUST remove the steering wheel without taking the whole column. Is it even possible? All my previous cars you could just remove the wheel and take it. 25.5 now but I think I'm starting to top out. Maybe new CVT fluid will help. It's getting freaking hot too 80F+.. better fix my A/C soon. Not for me, IDC, but for the battery.

 

It most certainly is. This is for a standard Escape. Not too bad, just use some caution. You will need a 2.5mm hex key, a T-50 Torx socket and a good ratchet with an extension, a little tug and pull. There are also holes for a steering wheel puller but if you don't have a puller just work from the sides of the wheel and go back and forth until the wheel comes off.

1) Disconnect negative battery terminal! FTM also places the orange HV Battery disconnect plug in "SERVICE" position in his video!
2) Use 2.5 millimeter hex wrench at 6 o'clock underneath steering wheel in little hole, push on airbag while pushing up on airbag retaining spring through hole.
3) Airbag comes off, disconnect electrical connector...stay away from big tesla coils and van de graaff generators...

Actually the best thing is just to watch it here. The important thing is: once you get the wheel off, you have to make sure the clock spring doesn't spin. Have some tape on hand to hold it in place.


And yes you will need A/C to keep the battery alive. 82F is the optimum battery temperature. A/C is supposed to go on automatically when battery box temperature reaches 85. Computer will disallow EV mode when battery box temperature goes > 100F. More than 131F inside the box and the battery is being damaged.

 

Note that when FTM does this, he is not removing the wheel separately, but taking out the whole column to do the EPAS torque sensor. However, he SETS THE HV SERVICE PLUG to "SERVICE POSITION" in addition to removing the -12V Battery terminal before doing anything.

 

Wow that looks like a lot of fun. I think I'll save this one for a bit. They wanted to charge $70 for the airbag anyways so I dunno if its worth it. This is in my future too:
How much fluid did you get out of your transmission. I seem to have only gotten 5 in there and about 5 came out. Also notice my wrench only comes on after a few seconds of driving when I replaced the battery bolts.

 

I actually don't know how much came out! I had the fluid changed by my trusted long-term mechanic, who has been in business since the 60's and is swamped almost every day by repeat customers, when he installed my new front brake rotors and pads. He charged me $62.50 including the fluid, verified he put in MERCON LV, but I never asked him how much believe it or not. Probably I should have, but I trust this fellow, have worked with him for many years, and he's never done me wrong. The manual says 5.3 but that's "dry fill" not including stuff that is trickling down after you put the drain plug back in. As long as it was up to the bottom of the fill plug with the car level, it's OK. FTM says 6 quarts or thereabouts, but maybe he's off a little too. I informed him of all that and what the manual said beforehand.

I asked my mechanic to do it because I also wanted his opinion on the rest of the car when he did the front brakes. At the time it was still very cold outside and that was my only place to work, laying on the ground, so I had him do it (my car is not garaged.)

And yes I've seen the video about the ignition switch and that fix. I like it, I'll probably be there at some point and need to do it while I wait for the parts to arrive. It's a good option in a pinch.