Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

Andiamo- at 53 K, you should still be under warranty. it was 8 years or 80K. now it's 85K and i don't know how many years (wasn't relevant for me) because of the class action suit. even if you're a bit over 8 years, they may give you a goodwill consideration. give the dealer a call about this and the warranty extension, or try another dealer. or write Honda directly. just got my new IMA and am hoping it will last. also, one mechanic said it was dangerous to work on such a powerful battery, that you could get shocked, and turned down my business. good luck!

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

must be a newbie or a $$ mechanic ,ask him then why 3 salesman's said that the differences between a pruis and a honda is the honda you can still drive it if the battery goes dead ,not the pruis, are your sale people lying to sell hondas?

I heard of a post of someone who stiil driving without their ima battery for 2 years ,said its possible , low on power and uses more gas, and that low 700 rpm after warm up is too low to charge the 12 volt battery said he edge it to 1000 or bit over
if only your in traffic a lot,as its charging while going ,
http://www.solarvan.co.uk/insight/GridCharger.pdf

here another article, but from what i gather recalibrating your cell will just buy you a few months to start throwing code again, you need to take out that bad roll of cells for a fix , unless all battery cell wasn't that damaged too far off, a gamble, with no way of replacing a roll cell.but maybe used ebay?

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/.../message/23237
another option you could get a recalibrate ima battery and replaced cells pack at that site for 1.500,00 ,that site someone mention.

and or you could do my mods, my car can easily do without a ima battery now their power to spare ,even going up hills, its strong as a normal honda now, with asst feel like a tiny turbo its can get to 40 +not even half throttle leaving the pack of car behind. and their 12 volt battery to spare,

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

• this is for anyone that are having ima battery codes , first , get a new 12 volt battery if you want the best, get sears platinum my other post gives the model number,even if your battery tested out ok,its knowed that a under size battery here hch that on its way out will mismanage the ima system throwing any possible codes,seen it posted twice by mechanics and it aligned with logic,
• that cause eliminated we start new,

we try to do the same thing as taking out your ima battery out of the car and trickle charge the battery pack ,well almost.
only thing we cant do is completely drain each cell roll,but we trickle charge in only useing 4 bars in charging your ima battery pack over and over till the ima battery pack can get rebalanced as best as it can,not counting heat damage of growing of nickel crystal as a resulting of heat build up of charging too fast or the results of relying on too many bars on braking and decelerating ,
a few other site have taught that having the computer recharge is bad they called it force recharge,and should be avoided for best mpg,but their never a free lunch,

but really not having the computer slow charge 4 bars its a way to have your ima battery
died early. of over heating and unbalance sticks cell.
how to drive without too many bar of recharging takes practice but its also the road to better mpg,
it here in
gliding.https://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/...ndex2.htmsurml

the word distributing ......... it can only be done in everyone gets something, with a steady stream of supplies, having a whole bunch to hand out here and their not going to work equally ,

the ima pack has 20 sticks x 6 cells,it likely connected in parallel but even then if you would cut a roll Im sure you would find the low cells are in the middle the end are getting more,

look at it this way, as the ima pack ,
say we have 20 lines different of 6 people you distribute by giving each first inline, some times 4 some times 2 saying take one and past the rest behind,

over and over the first in line is guarantee to get more than the person in back,

now on the other side we let the computer distribute its authorize to hand out a steady stream and will not stop till all person have one,
on top of this its done with 4 bars a trickle charge that will not heat up the sticks,

so if your software still working try let the computer trickle charge the battery,it might give it time to get balance as best as it can,

a slow Constance 40 to 60 % charge is a non aggressively usage , and logically your ima pack could go possible twice the distance ,who knows its could have been design as usage that way. http://www.ziddu.com/albumview.php?k...=282016&page=1

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

...............

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

'04 HCH, 122,000 miles MT, A/C all year round (except for about a week and half in late Dec.) 5 days a week, 100 miles+ a day

I have been recovering from surgery, car sat for about 2 weeks. First day back in and IMA light came on about 20 miles down the road, check engine light was already on from P0420 code (you guys in Cal. are so lucky to have M/M), that code comes and goes, will be on for about 2 days then go off for 3 or 4 weeks sometimes less. More about this later, checked for new codes, got a bunch, P1433, P1575, and P1600. Looked online and found you guys.

Hey All!

Dealer told me $2800. A lot of money. So, I took mine apart and found one of my wire harnesses had been damaged. Oh yeah, I did get this used, 24K on it then. I am replacing the harness first ($150), no broken wires but 3 wires were chaffed more than half way through and close enough to be touching. Going to have my 12v checked, now that I have read this board (thanks).
Attachment 1534
I just wanted to let ya'll know that there is a switch on the battery (under the small plastic cover right behind your back seat, in the middle)(2 bolts for the seats, 2 bolts for the cover), when I turned it off, I believe I actually got better MPG, it felt like the IMA was no longer engaging for the charge state. So there was no drag on the engine, like I usually felt when I let off the gas. IMA light stays on though. My MPG has been about 38 for the last 5-6 months, went to 41 after about 100 miles. Not too scientific, but I will let you know if I see any change long term.
Attachment 1535Attachment 1536Attachment 1537Attachment 1538
I did have a software update about 16 months ago when my P0420, engine check light first came on. Dealer had my car for about 4 hours before they told me they fixed it with software update. Oh by the way, no charge for that! Yeah thanks!

Man, I wish I had know you guys back then!!!!!!

I have only been on this for a few days now. I have a few days till the harness comes from CA.

Does anyone know why they are not warranting the replacement battery for 8/80K, I was told my new one (if I get it) would only have 3/36K. That is kind of messed up.

If any of you have done/or are planning to do anything "legally" to remedy this IMA situation please let me know and count me in.

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

Hey all: 9/5/10
I have a 2004 honda civic hybrid, currently w/155,000+ mi and the ima light is just beginning to come on (i bought in 2003, so nearly 7 yrs). Hard miles-i'm a home health nurse(!) & couple of longer trips. Its been a great car, but now needs some work:(. It is a stick and I use the a/c from may/june to october-ish
been reading about re-furbishing, is this a good idea? Have you done it? Does anyone sell used ima batts from wrecks? Ideas?
Thanks, Jen

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

2003 Civic Hybrid CVT with 133k. Second owner bought it at 78k from Honda dealer. At 86k IMA/check engine light came on...replaced both catalytic converters. Lights have been coming off and on for 2 years. Our mileage has always been in the 36-44 range from the day we bought it. Found out last month that starter clutch kit and cats were replaced at 78k (the mileage we bought the car at). So, we spent $2000 to replace cats that had been replaced just 8k ago...am convinced that Honda mechanics over rely on the codes without really looking at the issue. And just replaced starter clutch kit ($1,000) two weeks ago.

Corporate Honda was unwilling to do anything for us because we bought it used and because we waited until 130k to ask about IMA light. Well, we didn't know that at 86k they might have helped out because dealer didn't offer that insight. It's been a money pit and one we can't sell because the lights won't stay off. As soon as I can get them to go off, I'll trade it in or sell it.

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

just more choices info on this thread, you could put a full size 12 v.sears platinum battery on the hhc1
p-5
35/50035
740 cca
100 rc
more exposure plates faster recharging ,I have pictures and direction on tip and mods.also a list of what draining your undersized battery while your car sit with the engine off at stops (3 brake lights/radiator fan etc.)as the dc to dc converter is off too,its 3 minutes x how many stops lite vs amount of engine on charge time,the balance get carried over to the next day.

ever tried recharging a battery pack while you are using a inverter to charge a bunch of cameras battery its takes twice as long to charge that battery same here. bars are estimate charge,that can disappear after driven a while.as in parked and has caught up fully recharging that over work 12 volt battery.

or can try to slow charging the ima battery on the car ,that should help balance the stick best as possible, describe their too.

and last if all else failed and you could try to turned off the switch in the back seat,someone mentions he did that and the car engine feels better lighter, logic would be their be no senseless charging which is a magnetic field or opposing force charging does ,

but that ima battery site says you cant take out the ima battery or the car will not run,

my car run strong every morning as I let my computer slowly recharge my ima battery I use only 40 to 60 % of ima battery (put in in natural to avoid many bars )
that only once a day,(rebalanced the stick)
and still with charging 4 bars you can still glide(charge on or off) I till get up to 50 mpg at the start of the day,remember its still a 1.3 cc engine
all the motor need is more torque,
info here
https://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/...41/index3.html

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

another tip here is if you plan tp leave the hhc sitting and unstarted ,make sure both battery are fully charge(long cruze) and when you get back I would take off the 12 volt battery and have it charge fully , if its were to be very low it raises the odd of having a sensor light coming on and trouble down the road ,as both battery need to be recharge (rightly should take hours) and if you did your recharging through braking and decelerating less that 5 minutes vs letting the computer recharge (4 bars),its more likely to add overheating code to the mix.or fry the healthy cells if its pattern unbalance. it will stress and heat the ima battery and dc converter if recharge too fast ,it all about your management control on your trottle and neutral stoping keeping it a low 4 to 5 bar of charging for a longer length of time.

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

The 12v talk in the past two pages has been mind boggling. It's amazing what people do not understand about the separate systems.

IF YOUR CAR IS NOT STARTING, IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE IMA BATTERY, REPLACE THE 12V UNDER THE HOOD.

Also, battery brands make no real difference with exception to type. Optima makes a gel acid battery, most others are liquid acid. Gel has a tendency to last longer, which is why they cost more. The differences in most liquid acid batteries are minute, mostly acid solution percentages, plate thicknesses and compositions, but they are principally all the same. A Wal-Mart battery can last 5 years, just like an Autozone battery can as well, or one from Sears. A battery is a battery is a battery, and spending more money on one because of a name brand only guarantees that you'll spend that much more, and maybe have a longer warranty. A battery preference is just a preference, and should be noted as anecdotal at best. Replacing a battery every two years is a bit excessive. Most 12v automotive batteries will last at least 4 years without fail or fault. The only reason to replace a battery so often is failure, pure and simple.

Now onto another pet peeve. The 12v battery has nothing to do with the IMA charging bar on the dash. There is no charging indicator for the 12v. There is only an indicator light, which comes on during the light check at startup, when the key is in run but the engine is not on, or when the battery is too weak to power anything else (i.e. starter, lights, etc).

As far as getting rid of that IMA and engine light. This happens when you remove the constant source of power (the 12v) from the ECM. Disconnecting the ground at the 12v will remove the code from active status, but you will still have the code stored as inactive, so it can still be read with a scanner. If the fault is not consistent at each start up, the light will not come on after a 12v disconnect, but it will when the fault happens again. As far as the IMA, it'd be whenever the computer decides to tell you about it, another cell dies, or the degradation becomes worse.

/rant

Now that all of that is off my chest...

I have a 2004 HCH1, CVT, IMA light flicked on tonight for the first time at 147,312 miles. I never use my A/C, the compressor bricked 35k miles ago and I don't care about replacing it. Windows down everywhere I go. Not to say it's pleasant weather here, we had a month of 100+F heat this summer, just used to it. P2000 code has been throwing itself for the past near 2 two years, haven't replaced the cat (no inspections to worry about). I spent about 6 years as a diesel mechanic, hence the rant. I'll never drag this car to the dealer to replace the battery. I'll just shed the drivetrain in favor of a gas only setup when it's no longer drivable due to the IMA, engine or CVT failure. Surely there's a junkyard around with a 2003-5 engine and 5 speed for less than the cost of a new battery.

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

just trying to bring information across 3 thread together to made make this thread usefull understandable again,if you didnt know the
hch has no alternator to charge the 12 volt battery separately, but a 140 v. to 12v. dc down converter that works off the ima battery which is storing the charge of the ima motor recharging the ima battery pack,we could make also the same honest mistake.
also the difference between sears platinum and the honda battery beside l the difference inside ,what we want is the 740 cca vs 475cca reserve power, as having 2 radiator fans, 3 brake etc. are of these are all running while the dc down converter is off at a stop lite 3 minutes x stops,what we want is the largest cca reserve possible, and more exposure plates recharging at a given time to balance the time of short 1/2 hr stoplite,as trips we take to the store.

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

and
For what it's worth:

I just turned 220K on my '03/5spd with the CEL/IMA lights on/off since around 140K and on solid since 170K or so and I'm still going. In fact I wrung out a 727 mile tank just a few weeks ago. The biggest problem for me is getting past the state inspection once a year. The codes I'm throwing are P1600 and P1449. The red battery icon only lights on power up (not during operation). I do get a lot of recals, and I do lose assist fairly often, usually when I need it most like on a long hill or getting on the interstate, but because it's the stick I can just drop it into a lower gear and keep on going. The auto-stop doesn't work as often either.

I was thinking of getting the battery pack refurbed, but at this point I think I will just try to get as close to 300K as I can as is. The DC-DC converter will crap out eventually and not charge the 12V anymore and that is probably when I will give up the ghost. The car is my workhorse and gets some serious miles but I do take it really easy on her now. Depending on time constraints/traffic I drive the speed limit and maybe even a few mph below and generally just don't push it too hard. I have also found that if I'm not going to use the car for a few days it's best to put a trickle charger on the 12V battery.

I don't know if my experience is repeatable but if you take it easy on them maybe you can also get another 100K miles without doing anything to the battery pack. Of course if you did refurb them, or even dealer replaced for big bucks, especially if you aren't in the snow belt, you could probably get another 200K or even 300K miles.

Best of luck...

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

Hi,

I'm a newbie here and have a 2004 HCH Manual that just turned over 85,000 miles. I bought the car in 2006 with 53,000 miles, from a local Honda Certified Used Car dealer. The car has seen mostly urban driving cycles the past 2 years, with the occasional bi-monthly highway trip. A/C does see seasonal use in May-Sept.

On a side note: I recently replaced the under-hood 12V battery (this was NOT really necessary, I just wanted the peace-of mind with winter fast approaching),

And as far as I know the IMA (144V) battery module has never been replaced. The car performs well and typically gets an indicated 38 - 42 mpg in city use and close to 50 mpg highway. (We do live at 5000 ft ASL, which reduces mileage and power.)

About a week ago the IMA and CHECK Engine lights came on. (P1600 and P1433). At the time they come on the SoC dropped from 75% to roughly half that. Throttle response becomes noticeably sluggish, but the REGen/ASSist meter still works. And the SoC gradually moves up and down. The most I have seen it come back to is about 67 % when the codes are thrown.

When I clear the codes, I observe the following: REGen/ASSist immediately at idle shows (GREEN) charge and the SoC rapidly comes up to 100% within a couple of minutes. When the car is driven, throttle response is crisp and instrumentation shows "like-new" REGen/ASSist and SoC behavior in urban driving.

Then, usually with a day or so (usually less than 20-miles) the same codes return (P1600/P1433).

To the best of knowledge, the ECM has NOT been re-flashed or "Upgraded" by Honda.

1) Is there a way to determine the ECM Version level?

2) If Honda flashes the ECM, will it potentially mask the P1433 code? Making them less likely to replace the IMA battery of DC-DC converter under warranty?

3) What is actually happening when the P1433 code is thrown? It seems to put the system into "LIMP" or "LAME" mode?

4) Does anyone have experience with Honda's Certified Used Car Warranty or Third-Party Warranties, with respect to IMA failures?

Any advice (or dare I say Insights?) woiuld be greatly appreciated.

/Lee

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

I was told a couple of years ago that my battery was degrading. I haven't done anything about it so far, but now I may be forced to. Yesterday my car would barely start. Everything seemed under powered. The windsheild wipers were barely able to move. The headlights were dimmed. The power steering stopped working (although that may be a different problem). Some of the things on the dashboard stopped working (the speedometer, etc.).
I got it towed to the Honda dealership and they said they needed to replace both the start up battery and the IMA battery. The weird thing is that the IMA battery was still fully charging and discharging right before this happened. My dad says that if a battery is still charging and discharging it's fine. He says it must just be the start up battery causing these problems. He says I should do what I did last time: have them replace the start up battery and charge the IMA battery if it needs it.
If I had $4000 of my own money, I'd ignore my dad and just get the IMA battery replaced. But I'm in college and my parents are my only source of money. I don't even have a credit card anymore. There's no way I'll be able to pay for it without their help.
What would do all of you think? Should I beg my parents to replace the IMA or should I just do what my dad suggested?

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

I'd say just have them replace the 12 volt: that is "low hanging fruit", could be the only culprit.

I suspect "full charge" varies over time, likely downward. My HCHII is subject to occasional "recalibrations", and I think the name says it all. Maybe with each recalibration the car's computer re-establishes it's definition of "full charge".

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

My battery didn't fail on me but when my engine light and IMA light came on the mechanics at SpeeDee Oil change also pulled a P1600 error code from it.

SpeeDee told me that the code was dealer/Honda specific, so today I had the engine&IMA light checked out ($135 diagnostic) at a Honda dealer in Concord, CA. The problem they found: my positive cable to the small battery (not IMA battery) was so loose that it had come off while they were testing the car/driving it around. They said that when that cable came off, they lost the error codes so they couldn't figure out why the IMA light was on. However, they told me that I had a warranty for this issue if the same problem/light comes back on so I could bring it back free of charge.

Sidenotes: SpeeDee (Davis, CA) told me that my transmission fluid was leaking and that the level was at a minimum so I asked the dealer/mechanic at Honda about this afterward. Honda told me that it was fine and SpeeDee was probably trying to make money off of me.

I had bought my 2004 HCH used at 131K miles, and found out today that there's a warranty for the IMA battery (regardless of/separate from the warranty on the car) depending on which type of battery you have in the car. One type is a 80Kmile/8 year warranty and the other is a 150Kmile/10 year warranty. 80Kmile/8 warranty is for the Ultra Low Emissions type battery and the 150K/10yr warranty is for the Super Ultra Low Emissions type battery.

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

To add to the prev post, my engine & IMA lights came back on so I had to take my car back to service (good thing Honda at Concord,Ca won't charge me again because it's the same lights that came on as last time).

They told me that my battery needs to be replaced, but that since my vehicle uses the Super Ultra Low Emissions type battery, the 150K/10yr warranty applies and I won't have to pay for a new one (phew, dodged a bullet there since I would not have the money to replace it--i'm still a student).

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

2004 HCH failed at 153k miles.

1 -- Manual.

2 -- it's the south. I run AC all the time, every day, with perhaps a one or two month break in "winter".

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

2003 HCH failed at 81,700 miles
Pulled codes P1449 and P1600
Dealer cost to replace IMA Battery 2,900
Called Honda USA they will charge me 1k.

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

2005 HCH failed at 145k
pulled p1600 and p1433
dealer cost to replace battery 3,800
automatic and use the a/c in summer days...

anyone know where to get a battery cheaper?

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

114K on my recently purchased in Canada HCH 2003 CVT - one previous owner with full local Honda dealer service history. It's got a new 12v battery from previous owner. Fresh 0W20 Synthetic oil and Honda CVT fluid.

Driving home the other night, noticed the wipers becoming sluggish, quickly followed with a IMA light and check engine light. Charge/Assist lights stopped working, every time I came to a stop light, 12v battery warning light came on and car nearly stalled. Noticed no electric motor assist at all, car sluggish.

Got home, pulled the codes P1600 and P1440, then cleared the codes.

All systems are go again.

Fingers crossed. :confused:

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

That's strange. I've never heard anyone say their wipers became sluggish in conjunction with an IMA problem. I wonder if there's a loose terminal on the 12V battery, since the 12V indicator came on too.

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

I'll have time tomorrow night to get it into my garage and check all the connections.....will report back. It does seem kinda strange....

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

I think these cars have a serpentine belt. Maybe check to make sure that isn't loose or cracked.

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

Checked under the hood, all electrical connections clean and tight. 12v battery is quite new.

Problem went away for a while, this morning on my way to work, coming to a stop light, autostop kicked in, IMA light came on with the check engine light. Car died, put it into park, and would not restart. Turned the key all the way off, and tried restarting again. Fired up, all lights normal and the IMA light was out, check engine light is on. I'll pull the code tonight again........not looking good.

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

So the codes I pulled are 1600 (again) and 1589. Hmmm...

Looks like 1589 is a Motor Power Inverter module current signal circuit problem, googling it says to replace the PDU Power Drive Unit MPI current sensor if it returns page 12-132 of the service manual.

Maybe the cause of earlier DTC's? Or the result of something related?

Hopefully it's something simple as a capacitor pack or sensor replacement! Deleted the codes and off I go again.

Yikes. Time to hunt down a service manual.

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

Cool! More codes!

Sitting at a stop light, autostop engaged.

Lifted my foot off the brake, nothing. Had to put it into park, shut it down, and restart the car, engine light on again.

Codes P1600 and P1586

P1586 Motor Power Inverter (MPI) Module Current Signal/Battery Current Signal Circuit Problem

Saga continues !

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

I have been very happy with my 2003 HCH--am at 210,000+ miles with the only major issues being the replacement of the catalytic converters a couple of years ago (around 100k & 140k respectively). In the past 9 months I have seen my IMA & CE lights come on, but go off after just a few hours or a few days. This started last June (2010) at about 190,000. From October through about January, I had no lights come on, but the problem has since returned. In the past month, the indicator lights have come on and stayed on... but, the car is charging just fine. I drove it about 350 miles yesterday, and all was well.

I've taken the car to two different honda dealers and my local (non-honda) mechanic and all say the same thing... the codes (can't remember the numbers) say the IMA battery is weakening.

Not a big surprise really, I'm quite happy to be at 210k and still going. My question/comment at this point... I'm wondering how to reset the warning lights to see how long they stay off (or if they would immediately return on), and also if I need to replace this battery (quoted $2800 at a NE PA dealership for a new replacement), would it be worth my time to get a used one?

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

Depending on the codes you are getting, these guys can repair your battery pack for a lot less money. Quote from their website :

"Please note: We can only repair batteries that are showing P1447 (battery degradation), P1433 (battery degraded) or P1449 (battery overheat) errors. Anything else is a circuitry problem and not the actual battery and should be fixed by a mechanic or dealer. Please contact us if you are not sure. We'll be more than happy to help you by providing the information that you need to get your car back on the road."

http://www.hybrid-battery-repair.com/

You can read and clear the codes with a OBD2 scanner. Even when the IMA lights come on and then off, they are still stored for you to recall, unless the ECU has been reset or battery disconnected for a while.

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

My 2003 Civic battery failed at about 160,000 miles. I bought a used one from a junkyard and had a place in NY rebuilt with used batt sticks. I would like to hear from the group about other options.

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

Recently bought a 2003 HCH with 99K miles. ULEV in state where 8 yr/80K. Has IMA and check eng on. No charge on IMA battery, no IMA charging or assist when driving. No auto stop. Battery symbol light (12V?) comes on when rpm less than 1200 at idle. Start up dash sequences lights all the guages ok. Problems sound somewhat similar to yours, but slightly different codes. Pulled P1600 and P1575 codes. Found following on search.
Blown Fuse Causes IMA
DTC P1575
If IMA DTC P1575 (MPI voltage problem) sets as
soon as you turn the ignition switch to ON (II) in a
’03–05 Civic Hybrid, check the 100 amp junction
board fuse for an open circuit. If the fuse is open,
replace the fuse and retest.

Any idea where 100 amp junction board fuse is located? I check IMA fuzes underhood and under dash and both look ok . Expect I need to rule out board fuze before proceeding to see if IMA battery is bad/going bad or other problems. Car sat for a while before I bought it which appears to be death sentence to the IMA battery.

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

Any suggestions on where I can go to get this info (location of 100 amp junction card fuse)? My last resort will be to call the local Honda dealer who usually wants big $ or is protective/overly cautious of giving out info. Responses would be greatly appreciated.:angel: Also, I am cheap and don't like to pay for things if I don't have to!!!!:omg: Son bought this car(I think pretty cheap....like father... like son) and put it in my driveway. He knows I can't ignore a challenge. A $1000+ investment in an IMA battery doesn't seem wise if it turns out to be a blown fuse or some other circuitry/controller problem. Therefore I am trying to eliminate these first. Again, would greatly appreciate any responses.

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

From the Majestic Honda parts website:

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...JUNCTION+BOARD

(Seems to be a blowup of the junction board), which is located as a component of the IMA battery unit behind the back seat. The junction board sits between the Motor Control Module (MCM) and the Battery Module. The junction board has two fuses on it, the 100A Battery Module fuse, and a 20A DC-DC converter fuse. I'm seeing this in the 2003-2004 Civic Hybrid service manual in the IMA section, pages 12-30 and 12-31. You may be able to stop into a Honda dealership's parts department and ask if they can let you take a look at the service manual.

WARNING***This could be dangerous stuff, being that you have to go into the IMA area behind the seat to check this fuse***, so you might want to check with someone who has experience doing this, like maybe Ron at hybrid-battery-repair dot com. He has some pictures on his website that might help, and you can send him your questions regarding how to go about checking this fuse if you intend to proceed.

http://www.hybrid-battery-repair.com/hch/index.html

But first...
~~Have you checked to make sure that it isn't something really simple like a bad 12V Battery?~~that would be a good first easy thing to try.

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

Thanks Gairwyn for the response and information. This gives me a place to start and your suggestions are great. I have reviewed some of the battery replacement procedures, etc. and have noted the precautions about disconnecting 12V, turning switches behind seat to off, waiting to allow any capacitors to discharge, wearing insulated gloves and in general being very careful. I was hoping to not have to go in there, but...

yes, the car has a bad 12v battery (will not take charge). I tried two other batteries from my other vehicles with the same result (no IMA charge indication and 12v battery light coming on at and below 1200 rpms). I have seen some conflicting info on 12v battery replacement relative to the CCA in terms of possibly damaging the system if too large of a CCA, but others indicating the more the better in order to withstand autostop usage (no charging going on, but some load like brakelights, etc.). What was in the car was a very small (size and 240 CCA) battery. Not sure if original or not (probably not since car has been in service since May 2003).

I have not had a chance to try the car at highway speed (still need to get tag) so perhaps a new 12V battery, resetting codes and a trip would cause different results. Plan is to try that first before going into the IMA battery compartment.

Again, thks for the info.

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

It's quite possible that the car still had its original 12V battery; they are very small in size and had an "eye" indicator window (red/blue/white color change indicator) on it. My car still had its original one in it for about 5 years I think.

If you google a bit, you might be able to find a download of the service manual, such as this:

http://www.promanuals.com/servicepar...pair-manual-5/

Good luck. I hope it's something simple. If you have to go in to the IMA please take all necessary precautions for your safety.

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

Yes, from your description it sounds like the original 12V battery. Eight years is darn good if it is. I had it tested and it showed a bad cell. It is strange they would put a battery in a new car that does not fit the case that surrounds it. The 51R that is called for as a replacement is the exact same size as the holder, but the CCA is 410 or bigger vice 290 for the small battery that was in the car. I am going to assume the larger CCA for the 12V will not harm the DC-to-DC converter or something else in the system. Could that be causing the battery light to come on below 1200 rpms when I put my extra 550 CCA battery in the car to start the gas engine?

I have been reading some info (primarily Insight owners) who have used a 144V (?) 380ma charger to "balance" cells (long trickle charges?). Is it cost effective to invest in one of these to revive a "dead" 144V IMA battery or to maintain the health of one? If so, anyone have info on a good source to order one?

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

Wow, seems like most HCH's here throwing CEL/IMA lights are eariler models. I have a 2009 with 55K and recently the lights have been coming and going, accoring to my wife (she's the daily driver).

I drove it myself the other day and noticed that the charge bar dropped extremely quickly from a full charge. I'm talking within minutes of driving around town. Can't be good.

Taking to the dealer tomorrow. The Certified warranty (bought used with 3K) just freaking expired too. Hope they will go easy...

EDIT: duh, just realized im in the HCH I forum, that would explain things...

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

The 2004 Honda Civic Hybrid battery (IMA) is easy to install. The most difficult parts of this installation are the rear seat back and cover plate removal. Once this is done it takes less then 10 minutes to remove and install the new battery. There are five bolts holding the battery in place, five easy fit electrical connections and three bolted wire connections. The battery weighs about 30 lbs. and is approx. 24"x18"x12". A 2x4 and 1x4 (wood), each cut to about 6"-9" long, stacked under the battery will ensure the bolts are aligned for easy installation. Only attempt this if you feel comfortable and are mechanically inclined and have consulted your Honda Dealership service department.
Make sure the ignitions switch is off (remove your Key) and the large main switch is turned off. There is a metal cover plate, with two bolts, in the center of the overall cover plate; remove the small center plate to expose the the large main switch. It looks like a large light switch with a red plastic safety cover on it. Make sure this switch is off before you remove the main cover plate. The battery core is the large black box on the drivers side. Remove all of the wired connections prior to removing the mounting bolts.

Here is the catch; Honda says they must update the firmware and will not provide a parts and labor warranty if you do the installation.
I removed my rear seat back and all but three bolts on the cover and the dealership charged me for 1 hr ($100) labor, instead of 3 hours ($300). But, that only happened because I challenged them on the labor time. Total cost $2,700. I told them it would take me less than 10 minutes from this point. -not including any firmware updates.
This battery situation is a disgrace any, fuel savings is lost when the battery goes out. This battery actually consists of 120 NiMH, D cell rechargeable batteries.
THIS HYBRID WAS NOT WORTH THE EXPENSE AND HEADACHES! THERE WAS NO FUEL COST SAVINGS. IN FACT, FUEL COST WAS HIGHER WHEN YOU FACTOR IN THE ORIGINAL HIGHER COST AND BATTERY REPLACEMENT.

Re: Failed IMA Battery Owners!
 

So If the dealership replaces the IMA Battery what is the warranty on the new battery? Say in 2010 @ 50000 miles the battery was replaced under warranty would that extend the warranty on the battery out for another 8/ 80,000?