I think Honda has some engineers. I'm gonna do what they recommend.

nf

 

I was trying to give two extreme examples (50 & 15k mi) to establish a continuum to try and demonstrate that oil starts off clean and ends up contaminated. Given this I want to ask, for your specific conditions, how do you determine where your oil changes from "clean" to being "contaminated" enough to warrant changing.

I didn't mean to misquote you. My question could be rephrased and not include a specific interval: Especially being an engineer and biochemist, how did you "choose" to change your oil at the interval you do? I am just trying to collect information about this subject so I can make an informed decision on when to change my oil. I was wondering if you had any further information on how you came to your decision.


From an engineering point of view I find Orient Express' oil report from Blackstone quite informative. Being an engineer don't you find this type of report an integral part of making a decision on changing your oil? Would you consider having your oil "analyzed" (for your specific situation) and use this information to possibly adjust your oil change interval?

Would having your oil "analyzed" greatly reduce the err in calculating your oil change interval?

 

Oil never wears out, just the additive package. Used oil can be filtered to remove solids and new additives added and the whole process starts anew. It has been proven (do a search) that when you change your oil that more wear is created at that time than when the oil has been in your engine for X amount of miles.

 

You may want to check Toyota/Scion/Lexus dealerships for 0W-20.

The Toyota Technical Service Bulleten (TSB) and the Owner's Manual both state that 5W-20 is OK. But, for better fuel economy & better cold starting performance use 0W-20.

More recently, Toyota announced 0W-20 across the board:

In the July 1, 2008 Edition of Flashpoint, ILMA has announced that Toyota has officially decided to switch the recommendation on engine oil for certain vehicles from SAE 5W20 and SAE 5W30 to SAE 0W20.

ILMA reports that these changes will affect all Toyota brands, including Toyota, Scion and Lexus. The change will also appear in owner's manuals.

No further information is offered on timing or specific vehicles.

Please read more about this announcement here:
http://newsmanager.commpartners.com/...8-07-01/1.html

Here is a link to download the TSB:
http://www.chrysanindustries.com/pdf..._tsb071002.pdf

Another option is ENEOS Fully-Synthetic 0W-20 manufactured by Nippon Oil. Nippon Oil is the largest oil company in Japan and they supply the factory fill 0W-20 to Toyota in the US.
Here is the web-site for more info: www.eneos.us

 

Today, I called a local dealer since I am coming close to oil change time. The dealer said they use full synthetic for their oil changes when I asked how much it cost. It appears that the Honda oil they use is full synthetic and that is what they recommend for my 2004 Civic I (I bought it used and am coming up on my first oil change).
The manual recommendations are for 10000 miles per change for normal driving and 5000 miles per change for harsher conditions. Getting in and out of my place is about two miles of gravel (read dusty roads) before the pavement. I assumed, until reading this thread, that I should go with the 5000. (For that reason and because I do not know what the Acura Dealer I bought the car from put in it, though I was told it was spec. oil.)
I plan to go with the synthetic the dealer recommends. What do you synthetic users think about (1) changing now at 5000 miles and (2) what the interval under the above conditions should be with synthetic?
Note: we have been steadily gaining mileage. My wife, who drives the car for the most part, says she feels a little drop in power performance (not mileage) like you get in a conventional vehicle when the oil gets dirty.

 

The only thing that driving down a dirt road will do is get the car's body and air filters dirty faster. It won't have any effect on the oil. The crankcase on a modern engine is a sealed system.

Severe duty for an engine, is pulling heavy loads, start and stop driving, driving in very hot climates, lots of idling. It does not sound like your car's usage fits that pattern.

I would stay with 10K intervals initially, and get the oil analyzed at the next fill. Based on those results you can tune your change interval.

 

[quote=cgaiii;187664]Today, I called a local dealer since I am coming close to oil change time. The dealer said they use full synthetic for their oil changes when I asked how much it cost. It appears that the Honda oil they use is full synthetic and that is what they recommend for my 2004 Civic I (I bought it used and am coming up on my first oil change).
quote]

You may want to confirm, watch them put the Honda genuine fluid 0W-20 (quarts) in your car. Unless you specifically request the 0W-20, they may put in their BULK oil which is more likely 5W-20 or 5W-30.

As more owners request 0W-20, more dealerships will carry 0W-20 in BULK and reduce the overall cost to the consumer.

 

Thanks to Orient Express and skoh for the good tips.
I was just following what the manual says about severe conditions, but what you say makes sense.
Having the 0W-20 will be more important as cooler weather comes on. I would assume that even if the Acura dealer I bought the car from had used bulk 5W-20 or 5W-30, I wouldn't see much effect in the summer (I bought the car in June, so it has bee summer driving so far).
I will definitely be sure to specify the oil grade and also not worry about hurrying to get the change done. (Watching my air filter is probably more important.) So far mileage is still rising, not falling. (I assume that is the learning curve.)
(Most of the driving the car does -- my wife's 25 mile one way commute is on hard surface roads at 45 - 55 mph, curvy, mountainous area, just the first two miles of dust. We picked this hybrid because we thought it would be the best of the bunch under these conditions, so far true -- she regularly gets mid 53 - 55 mpg. As maintenance items come up we will try to improve (particularly tires currently a mish mash mix), so I appreciate the input about oil. Object is low cost of ownership and commute and of course less environmental impact.)

 

[I would stay with 10K intervals initially, and get the oil analyzed at the next fill. Based on those results you can tune your change interval.[/quote]

Real newbie question here. How does one go about getting the oil analyzed? I saw the Blackstone results you posted, but what is the process?

 

Consider AMSOIL 0w20. Their new synthetic has a 1-year, 25,000-mile oil change recommendation and everything I've read seems to confirm this. Other threads on other discussion boards severely criticize the Mobil 1 synthetic as not living up to its claims. For my 2003 HCH I, I'm about to switch over from the conventional 0w20 my Honda dealer uses (and charges me $6.20/qt for) to AMSOIL 0w20 at $28.20/gal (7.05/qt at the preferred customer pricing). I'll also start using their filter ($13.20) which is designed for the extended drain interval. I've asked my dealer and talked to a mechanical engineer who uses this stuff, and they both think it is perfectly fine. I'll go from 3 oil changes/yr at $45 ea at the dealer to one oil change I do myself for $41.40 plus misc lube and other fluid costs.

I save over $90/yr and the consumption of 8 quarts of oil. Seems like a good deal to me.

I'll be switching to full synthetic in my 1986 Ford E-150 (5w30) and 1967 Chrysler Newport (20w50) as well since they will really benefit from the extended drain life because they don't get driven much anymore.