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S Keith S Keith is online now

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Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 10 of 12
  1. kyle B
    04-19-2018 07:59 AM - permalink
    Hi Steve,

    I just bought a 2007 Civic hybrid with 156K on the odometer. I have been feverishly reading through the forum after buying this car. I am beginning to think I made a huge mistake. There is no IMA light on and the car seems to be driving fine. Should I run for the hills or dig in and get a grid charger to start taking care of the battery. I live in Ventura county CA, its not to hot here because we are are near the beach. The car is in great cosmetic shape and I bought it for $3800. I was thinking I would start with flushing the CVT fluid and change out the spark plugs. The guy I bought it from says he would get 38 mpg driving 75 on the freeway and 40 if he was driving slower. I have read all the arguments back and forth between you and the Maxx Volts guy so I don't know where I stand on that. Just wondering if I shouldn't just turn around and dump the car.

  2. lancey
    02-25-2018 02:30 PM - permalink
    throttle body is new. gas pedal is new. code obd p2104. instrument cluster code 3318 and d900.engine start 10 secondes and shutt off. idle rpm is 0. Ford escape hybrid 2005.i need your help
  3. lancey
    02-25-2018 02:21 PM - permalink
    throttle body is new. gas pedal is new. code obd p2104. instrument cluster code 3318 and d900.engine start 10 secondes and shutt off. idle rpm is 0. Ford escape hybrid 2005.i need your help
  4. GPR
    08-30-2017 08:15 PM - permalink
    My other concern is cycling the sticks vs. cycling pairs of sticks. I won't be cutting them apart and matching the pair, so should I be working at charging, discharging and load testing at the stick/pair/12 cell level?
    6 or 12 cells?
    Charge amp: 5.5a
    Discharge amp: 2.0 (that's the maximum setting on the SkyRC)
    Cut off peak: ?v (there doesn't seem to be a setting for this)
    Cut off discharge low: 1v (some posts say 6???)
    Trickle: 0
    Time:30 (is this the rest period prior to discharge?)
    When do you recommend load testing?
    Thanks in advance.
  5. GPR
    08-30-2017 08:14 PM - permalink
    Firstly, thank you for putting so much valuable knowledge on this forum.
    I have a 2007 pack that I have previously grid charged and discharged at the pack level. I'm very frustrated with some of the information out there for working at the sub pack level. Mostly the crap that others post, but also with some of the theory that has I'm hoping I can get some solid help from you.
    Here is the equipment that I have: 2 - SkyRC iMax B6 chargers, IR thermometer, 100 amp battery load tester & 11 HCH2 sub-packs from a junkyard battery
    I now realize that I might be limited by the SkyRC chargers, but what profile do you recommend?

  6. DaveyG
    08-22-2017 09:07 PM - permalink
    Sorry, book got too long to send... here's the last of it.

    as well as most all common auto mechanic tools, including an OBD-2 scanner (although no codes are present on the vehicle) would you ever recommend disassembly of a battery pack (Ni-MH) to test for a less efficient cell? I've found "used tested 9.6v" cells for a HiHy on eBay for a reasonable price, just want to test my cells first to be sure I order enough and only replace the ones that are actually lacking performance. Any input you can give me would be greatly appreciated!
  7. DaveyG
    08-22-2017 09:06 PM - permalink
    Hi I was referred to you by screen name ukrkoz, said you would be the guy to talk to about testing my battery cells. I have a 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid that I just purchased, the 12v battery was replaced 6 months ago, an AC Delco unit, yet the battery level charges up after a 7-8 mile trip to about the 80% level, then the car sits for 2-3 hours and I return and start it to show a battery level of only 20-30% after sitting. Seems to me that I might have a bad cell not holding a good charge and bringing the whole pack down. I've got quite extensive experience in the mechanical field, but this is my first ever Hybrid. I have a nice Fluke multimeter
  8. Chickpea01
    06-11-2017 04:16 PM - permalink
    Hello! I'm new to the forum--and to a lot of car stuff actually! I saw all your really informative posts in the IMA reconditioning thread and I wondered if it might be ok to PM you for some honest opinions and advice? Just briefly I am a grad student with a HCH1 (2004) as a first car. It has been having battery issues and I am wondering if I should just go ahead and replace the whole battery or keep at it, or look into selling/replacing the car. If it's ok to message you, I can definitely fill you in on the details on what's been going on and what I've done so far--I just wanted to get my self a bit better informed before I proceeded! Thank you so much, and thank you for all your posts on the forum!

    EDIT--I'm also happy to start a post if that is better!
  9. dosmastr
    04-02-2017 04:12 PM - permalink
    on the FAQ page of the HA site. talking about battery failure
    " This is a red flag, serious battery issues are imminent. In these cases, we strongly recommend using the Prolong Battery Reconditioning Package to perform a preventative battery reconditioning as soon as possible. Ignoring these symptoms for more than a few weeks will result in the battery displaying a failure code and being stranded on the side of the road. If treated with Prolong Battery Systems as soon as these symptoms become present, the success rate for recovering the pack and restoring it to good operating condition is nearly 90%.

    Stranded on the side of the road??
    You might want to talk to your boy about sensationalizing this.
    Also, he charges just as much on his site as eBay... should give a discount on his own site, ebay final value fee is a pretty big chunk of change.
  10. pasadena_commut
    01-22-2017 11:45 AM - permalink
    Just ran into this thread

    where you describe instability in a Biorad 1000/500 when using it as a grid charger. I see the same thing (instability, but not jumping to odd states) with a Biorad 200 when used with the HCH1. There is a thread about that here:

    in which it is said that at least one Hoefer supply doesn't do this. Anyway, I just posted a guess as to what might be causing this, and suggested a possible way to avoid the problem.


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