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S Keith S Keith is offline

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  1. GPR
    08-30-2017 09:15 PM - permalink
    My other concern is cycling the sticks vs. cycling pairs of sticks. I won't be cutting them apart and matching the pair, so should I be working at charging, discharging and load testing at the stick/pair/12 cell level?
    6 or 12 cells?
    Charge amp: 5.5a
    Discharge amp: 2.0 (that's the maximum setting on the SkyRC)
    Cut off peak: ?v (there doesn't seem to be a setting for this)
    Cut off discharge low: 1v (some posts say 6???)
    Trickle: 0
    Time:30 (is this the rest period prior to discharge?)
    When do you recommend load testing?
    Thanks in advance.
  2. GPR
    08-30-2017 09:14 PM - permalink
    Firstly, thank you for putting so much valuable knowledge on this forum.
    I have a 2007 pack that I have previously grid charged and discharged at the pack level. I'm very frustrated with some of the information out there for working at the sub pack level. Mostly the crap that others post, but also with some of the theory that has I'm hoping I can get some solid help from you.
    Here is the equipment that I have: 2 - SkyRC iMax B6 chargers, IR thermometer, 100 amp battery load tester & 11 HCH2 sub-packs from a junkyard battery
    I now realize that I might be limited by the SkyRC chargers, but what profile do you recommend?

  3. DaveyG
    08-22-2017 10:07 PM - permalink
    Sorry, book got too long to send... here's the last of it.

    as well as most all common auto mechanic tools, including an OBD-2 scanner (although no codes are present on the vehicle) would you ever recommend disassembly of a battery pack (Ni-MH) to test for a less efficient cell? I've found "used tested 9.6v" cells for a HiHy on eBay for a reasonable price, just want to test my cells first to be sure I order enough and only replace the ones that are actually lacking performance. Any input you can give me would be greatly appreciated!
  4. DaveyG
    08-22-2017 10:06 PM - permalink
    Hi I was referred to you by screen name ukrkoz, said you would be the guy to talk to about testing my battery cells. I have a 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid that I just purchased, the 12v battery was replaced 6 months ago, an AC Delco unit, yet the battery level charges up after a 7-8 mile trip to about the 80% level, then the car sits for 2-3 hours and I return and start it to show a battery level of only 20-30% after sitting. Seems to me that I might have a bad cell not holding a good charge and bringing the whole pack down. I've got quite extensive experience in the mechanical field, but this is my first ever Hybrid. I have a nice Fluke multimeter
  5. Chickpea01
    06-11-2017 05:16 PM - permalink
    Hello! I'm new to the forum--and to a lot of car stuff actually! I saw all your really informative posts in the IMA reconditioning thread and I wondered if it might be ok to PM you for some honest opinions and advice? Just briefly I am a grad student with a HCH1 (2004) as a first car. It has been having battery issues and I am wondering if I should just go ahead and replace the whole battery or keep at it, or look into selling/replacing the car. If it's ok to message you, I can definitely fill you in on the details on what's been going on and what I've done so far--I just wanted to get my self a bit better informed before I proceeded! Thank you so much, and thank you for all your posts on the forum!

    EDIT--I'm also happy to start a post if that is better!
  6. dosmastr
    04-02-2017 05:12 PM - permalink
    on the FAQ page of the HA site. talking about battery failure
    " This is a red flag, serious battery issues are imminent. In these cases, we strongly recommend using the Prolong Battery Reconditioning Package to perform a preventative battery reconditioning as soon as possible. Ignoring these symptoms for more than a few weeks will result in the battery displaying a failure code and being stranded on the side of the road. If treated with Prolong Battery Systems as soon as these symptoms become present, the success rate for recovering the pack and restoring it to good operating condition is nearly 90%.

    Stranded on the side of the road??
    You might want to talk to your boy about sensationalizing this.
    Also, he charges just as much on his site as eBay... should give a discount on his own site, ebay final value fee is a pretty big chunk of change.
  7. pasadena_commut
    01-22-2017 12:45 PM - permalink
    Just ran into this thread

    where you describe instability in a Biorad 1000/500 when using it as a grid charger. I see the same thing (instability, but not jumping to odd states) with a Biorad 200 when used with the HCH1. There is a thread about that here:

    in which it is said that at least one Hoefer supply doesn't do this. Anyway, I just posted a guess as to what might be causing this, and suggested a possible way to avoid the problem.
  8. S Keith
    01-05-2015 09:01 PM - permalink
    S Keith
    These cells will typically vent in the 140F range, and the pack can have some stagnation points. I've seen temps as high as 120F with a pack grid charging on the bench indoors. It made me nervous.

    All you need to do to run the car fan is to provide 12V power and short the PWM wires with about 20k Ohms for max and 21k Ohms for min. It's a narrow range on a large pot, but starting at 25K and slowly dialing down works.

    You probably have a much better method.
  9. Tresguey
    01-05-2015 12:44 PM - permalink
    Hello, I just picked up a 07 Civic hybrid and was thinking of building a grid charger. I am a hobbyist electronics tinkerer. I saw your BOM on mouser. I was wondering about the fan for the battery cooling. What temp would you consider hot? I build PWM fan controls for radiators and figured I could easily adjust it to run the battery fan when charging. any help or thoughts would be much appreciated.

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