2008 Tahoe hesitates or stalls out when press accelerator after idle @ stop lite or pulling out. Check engine lite illuminates but goes out if park car & restart it. If stalls completely, restarts easily. Had @ dealer twice, who "reset" computer 1st time, 2nd time they charged battery for $95. Said if continues, will need new hybrid battery for $2800! At 118,000 miles, out of warranty. Anyone else had this problem? Really need new battery to remedy problem??

 

The hybrid will charge the battery itself. If the check engine light comes on there are codes stored. Get them recorded and depending on what they are, you may need a battery. If it is determined that battery is bad, GM has customer service people that may help you share the cost. It was under warranty for 100k. 118 is still pretty close.

Get those codes don't just "reset". It could be something else.

 

What was the the fix for your problem ? Battary ?

 

yes I had this problem they said needed new 15v Battery

 

I have the exact same problem, stalls when stepping on accelerator after auto-stop...taken it to many dealers, one said it was the batteries. Were your batteries replaced? Did that fix it? Another dealer said it was the aftermarket wheels and tires and the batteries weren't charging correctly because of them...

 

Did check engine light come on? "Service Hybrid" message? When that light comes on and or that message pops up... there are codes and Freeze Frames that will help. Everything else is guessing.

And after market wheels and tires still deliver torque to the ground and Re-Gen power back to the hybrid. You can look up revolutions per mile or revs per km on many tire sites. If your aftermarket are within ~5% or so of the stock, your system will never know.

Ride and handling yes, hybrid function... no way!

 

Tire size is : 305/50/20 I think is pretty close to the same factory wheel specs. I've had multiple codes come up through the numerous instances...almost everything would suggest that the batteries are bad. I even had one dealer tell me he thought it was the hybrid batteries. And the last couple of times that the vehicle was at the dealership they charged the batteries and said the same problems would re-occur because of the aftermarket wheels? Why can't they just change out the batteries, my vehicle only has around 93k miles, still under warranty right? Would this be a good opportunity to try to pursue it through GM Corporate???

 

305/50/20 according to on-line tire site is 630.4 rev/mile. Stock 265/65/18 is 639.3 rev/mile

1.4% difference. Inflation pressure differences is close to that.

Get those codes! and Freeze Frames. To complex to guess.

 

I don't understand why the dealer would have a "suggestion" that these vehicles need new hybrid batteries. They have a diagnostic tool which they can pull data from the hybrid cells and it should be pretty cut and dried if there are bad cells in there.

I'd insist that the dealer pull all of the data for the hybrid batteries and share it with you (and if you are uncertain what the data means, there are people here who can help you). That's the only way you would convince me to spend a few grand to replace those batteries. I'd expect them to last way longer then ~100k miles.

Otherwise, I'd be looking elsewhere (e.g. 15V battery) for the cause of the problems.

 

This is correct. They can differentiate whether its the 12V or 300V battery that's defective.