Please help, I have an 03 hch and I am having many symptoms with it. For the most part, thetc car doesn't start. Lights still come on, radio works, but still need a jump to get it going. Sometimes it starts right away after not driving for 2 days, others it won't start several times during the day. A few times it has started with out without a jump, but when I go to drive it the power steering doesn't work. Sometimes it starts on its own with the IMA fully charged, or completely dead. IMA light has been on since I got the cat at 150k miles on it, currently at 166k. I have tested my 12v and it said it was fine. This has been really difficult, abs I would appreciate any insight. Thanks in advance.

 

sorry if this sounds confusing, it is to me so it's hard to explain.

 

If the 12V battery is over 2 years old, just replace it. Most auto parts store employees and/or the equipment they use are not able to competently diagnose a failed 12V.


Is the 12V battery light illuminated all of the time?

 

The battery light is not on. It's only on when I have the car in accessory and all the lights are on then. I should also mention we checked the voltage of the battery while running and it's fine, but when we checked where the ground wire from the battery connects (right above drivers side headlight) it goes down to 11v, while running.

 

So, while running:


Voltage between the battery terminals is "fine"
Voltage between the (+) battery terminal and the point where the (-) battery ground wire connects to the body is 11V.


The above is not possible unless something else is influencing the reading, like a dirty bolt or corroded surface. Move your (-) test lead to a clean grounded metallic surface and report the reading. Grind your test probe into the bolt and see if you can change the reading.


"fine" is not a measurement. What was the terminal voltage while running?


How old is the battery?

 

I apologize, 12.6v on + terminal, it's only where the ground connects from the battery to the car that it goes down to 11v. We checked every metal surface in that area and it was all 11v. Move away from that area however and it goes back up to 12.6v. I am not sure how old the battery is, I've had the car a little over a year and haven't changed it.

 

and again, I apologize, I don't know much about cars, just trying to get info on what might be going on. I also don't know anyone that knows hybrids, so insight is helpful.

 

This isn't necessarily a hybrid issue beyond your statements that the IMA light is on. The problems are you experiencing are common to non-hybrid cars, and anyone capable of diagnosing 12V issues should be able to diagnose this issue.


12.6V is low for a running car even for a Honda. Have someone read battery voltage measurements while you rev the car in "N". The voltage should change somewhat.


When you say you're checking other surfaces, you are leaving the (+) lead on the (+) battery terminal and moving the (-) lead to other locations?


What you are describing is not possible unless you are not getting a good connection. Rust, grime, oxidation, paint, etc., are interfering with the voltage measurement.


If the vent covers are removable, pull the vent covers and verify the cells have the proper level of fluid in them. If any are low with exposed plates, replace it. No. Don't try to refill it. Exposed plates means the battery is damaged.


Given that you don't know how old the battery is, replacement is prudent to eliminate it from the equation.

 

I'm honestly not sure how he checked the voltage, I will ask as well as get the voltage readings while revving in neutral. I will try to get over there today to get it tested. I'll write back when I have more info. Thanks!

 

I'm so confused.

Normally the only way there could be a big voltage drop like that is if there was a severely compromised conductor in the path AND the car was running. The bad connection or conductor would act like a resistor and some voltage would be lost there if a lot of current was put through that resistor. With that much loss on a running car it should also be pretty **** hot. If the car isn't running that side of the circuit is open and there should be no voltage loss at all across the ground lead. However, if the car was running the + battery connection would normally be more like 14V, not 12V, at least that's the case in cars with alternators. The HCH 1 charging system is quite different but I wouldn't expect a voltage indistinguishable from off just because current is going into the battery, and that alone should raise its voltage.

Anyway, he might want to unbolt the ground lead (with the car NOT running!) and measure the resistance across the ground lead. A big fat piece of copper wire like that should have a resistance really, really close to zero. If it isn't, replace the ground lead. If it tests OK before reattaching it sandpaper the body and the connector on the lead down to clean metal, just in case that connection was corroded. Also check for corrosion on the battery terminals.