Hi gang, I’m trying to trouble shoot my nothing but a headache hybrid, any help or ideas would be great.

I have a 2006 Civic Hybrid that will not charge the pack after individually cycling the sticks as I have done in the past.

After reconnecting the 12v battery the dash shows the IMA, 12V, and engine light on at the same time with the engine running for 20 mins. Tried this 10 times, disconnecting the 12V for 1 min.

The codes I pulled are P0A9E and P1570.

I removed the IMA pack out and measured the voltage between the BCM module (IMA battery) connector terminals.
BCM Module connector B (14P)

B6+B14=15.92V
B14+B5=47.3V *
B5+B13=15.69V
B13+B4=47.1V *
B4+B12=15.65V
B7+B1=15.37V
B1+B8=47V *
B8+B2=16.03V
B2+B9=47.4V *
B9+B3=15.67V

B12+B11=63.1V* I think B11 (VHB6 pink wire) is located on pin 10B on the connector and 11B is empty, also there is no voltage between these 2 if I don’t turn on the pack switch.

The voltages with stars should match the other ones?

 

You have either done something egregiously wrong, or you have misidentified the pins. Are you 100% certain that you installed the subpacks in the proper orientation? Here's the connector:

BCM connector

P0A9E is Battery Module Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High Voltage
P1570 is Battery Module Individual Voltage Problem

All taps should be somewhere in the 15-17V range, and they should all be within 0.1V if they are in good shape, though 0.2V may work. However, after a proper reconditioning effort, they should definitely be within 0.1V.

Is this a completely stock pack from an 06, or did you muck about with the '09 pack you posted about back in August?

 

Hi Steve,

I'm hoping I reversed a sub pack, does the drawing look right to you?

I purchased a set of untested sub packs from ebay for $150 and 10 of the 11 packs were toast. I used the 1 sub pack to replace the bad sub pack I had, then all this started.

I never bought the 2009 pack because I thought it wouldn't be compatible with with 2006-2008. I would have liked to give it a try but could not afford the $600 experiment.

I agree with you that all the taps should measure similar, if I didn't reverse the sticks could it be a bad board with the resistors and screws into the sub packs? Not the the junction.

 

It appears to be correct:


https://www.greenhybrid.com/forums/f...16/index3.html


The flat edges on each terminal end orient with the recessed areas in the end plate. It's hard to get a subpack in backwards, but I've seen it done.


I suspect you have the connector in the wrong orientation when identifying pins. Please see the link I included and confirm.


You may have a damaged thermistor. Check resistance on the three. They should all be pretty close to one another.


You need to pull the junction board and check the voltages of the subpacks directly, and inspect the end plate for breaks in the thin connector to the square tabs to which the sensing wires connect. Repeated tightening and loosening can twist them and break them.


Make sure you haven't broken any stick bolts. It's a common occurrence. They should be about 60 in-lb, and yes, you should use a torque wrench.


Again, 90% sure you don't have the connector in the right orientation when taking your measurements.

 

Hello Steve
I measured the voltage of my BCM connector and found following values

B6-B14= 15.43
B14-B5= 15.43
B5-B13= 15.54
B13-B4= 15.47
B4-B12= 15.33
B12-B11= 15.42
B7-B1= 15.57
B1-B8= 15.36
B8-B2= 15.41
B2-B9= 15.43
B9-B3=15.40

Max is 15.57
Min is 15.33

what can we make out of this pack ??
i get frequent recals but no lights for now

 

0.24V spread is bigger than it should be for a healthy pack. Given the frequent recalibrations, it's likely a sign of cell imbalance.

Grid charging would likely restore the battery to improved function.

 

Ive checked the voltages after 3 hrs and 6 hrs when the car is sitting idle .
there is a drop of 0.25 to 0.33 after every 3 hrs of my measurement. Some of the values dropped to 14.87 with a drop of approx 0.6 from the initial reading

is this discharge normal ?
i believe that cell is not holding its charge and thats why in morning, after sitting idle for more than 10 hrs, the charge is so little that car is started with normal started. Had the charge been held, this wudnt have taken place , right ??

Im buying stuff to build that grid charger.

Can 12 V tripple reset do any good in this situation ?? I tried twice at night and charged it to full as depicted, but the car still starts with normal starter in morning.
i did try it once during daytime. The recal time definitely gets increased but that difference is negligible

would this 12V reset have any affect on battery charging or performance if done more often ?

 

That answered my next question - how long? Given the levels, I had assumed you waited overnight or 24 hours. Looks like your battery has failed in the typical fashion where there is substantial and nearly uniform self-discharge of most if not all subpacks. The 12V startup in the morning is confirmation.

It hasn't thrown a code because it can operate within the recalibration limits without an obvious cell failure.

14.83V is extremely low. If the car is parked after a recalibration to 8 bars, it should have 16V+ after an overnight sit (10 hours or so).

The likelihood of your pack responding favorably to a grid charge has diminished. In some cases you will see improved function, but self-discharge doesn't always respond to cycling.

Your grid charger must include provisions for driving the battery fan with the IPU lid closed, or you need to pull the pack and force air through it. I recommend you take your time and charge for at least 25 hours @350mA current with good cooling before you attempt to discharge. First discharge should be to 106V. Discharge current below 132V should be limited to about 0.4A or so. Second and third discharges should be to 66V with 25 hour grid charges before each discharge. For an additional measure of safety, check 11 tap voltages periodically and terminate discharge prior to the previous limits if any subpack hits 6V.

Good luck,

Steve

 

Alright !
thanks for the info.
right now i was trying to charge the battery thru 12V reset before going to bed. But it has taken more than 30 min now at idle and still it is in its 1st reset . The charge shows only 2 bars at the moment

do i need to wait more and let it climb till 8 bars ?
would it be wise to check the charging voltages ?

 

Just measured the voltages while at idle.
the battery is not being charged at idle. I first checked the voltages when i started the car. It showed 16+ for most of the pins while the greeen bars were ON the dash. Soon after few min, the green bars disappeared and voltage started dropping. Now they r in mid 15
Still, the SOC showing 2 bars with no green bars
why the car is not being charged at idle ?