Hi guys, just signed up to the forum, figured i ask before doing anything to the car.
I did some web site developing for this guy, and he couldn't pay me, so he gave me this car
007 hybrid with 218000km (135K miles) on it. i drove it for a few days, put i think about 1000km, everything seemed working, drives smooth, no weird noised or sounds. The AC was not working, so i got somebody to fill up the gaz. it fixed the problem.
The day after the AC fix, the car just wouldn't go over 80kph, again, no weird noises, i turned the AC off, thinking that might caused a problem, but no changes...
So i parked it on a driveway, and thinking of how should i get rid of it, how much i can get for it, what is the problem with it. lots of questions.
If you guys know something i dont know, please help.

Much appreciate

Mike

 

Check oil level on flat ground. Add oil if needed. Do NOT overfill.

What is gaz?

Did "somebody" know what they were doing? Did they know that you can't add anything with oil, sealant or dye - only STRAIGHT R-134a?

Confirm IMA, check engine and 12V battery lights (as well as all other lights) come on with key ON before engine start.

Once started and driving, are any lights on?

Have you ever seen the battery gauge read 2 bars?

 

Hey Keith,
We in Canada say gaz to anything you put in your fueltank(gaztank) or the AC gaz, accelerator pedal we call it gaz pedal, lol, i know, its stupid

anyways, i just added a little bit of 0w20 oil (its what said on the cap)
havn't driven yet, scared to go on a hwy.
all the lights on the dash come on, when the key is ON position, when the car is running, no lights on the dash.
I had the battery gauge show 2 bars when driving, i figured it used alot, but then it charged back again.

Thanks for the help

 

Key points:

1) If oil pressure is low, car will act like it has a rev limiter. Most frequent cause is VERY low oil. If you only added a little, probably not the issue.

2) An overfilled A/C system can cause the compressor to be MUCH harder to turn and cycle on/off frequently. You did NOT confirm that "somebody" knew what they were doing. If they didn't, A/C compressor life is reduced. Given that the low power was unaffected by turning it off, probably not the issue.

3) Plugged catalytic converter can rob car of power as well, P0420 code.

4) Car almost never displays 2 bars UNLESS it's in the middle of a negative recalibration and force-charge. You need to watch for the following:

Negative recalibration: Gauge drops at 1 bar per second to 2 bars and force charges the battery severely robbing you of power. Once finished it stops force recharging at 2-4 bars and behaves mostly normally, OR it shows a positive recalibration.

Positive recalibration: usually ONLY happens following negative recalibration. Car stops force-charging and then "marches" to 8 bars at 1 bar per second.

These are the preliminary signs of battery failure, though they can persist for an obnoxiously long period of time before the battery actually codes. When they start to be fairly regular, performance and mileage will stink.

 

the AC guy apparently he new what he was doing, he just plugged one of those DIY bottles of that R134 from walmart, he did it on my driveway, so i didnt even go to a garage for that.
So this looks like battery issue? Can it still be driven like that, if i only do city driving and short runs? or i better try to get rid of it asap?

Thanks again

 

Like this?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/A-C-Pro-P...z-Can/36158903

 

not exact brand, but yes, was something like that, with the gouge on it

 

Note the warning in the finest print.

Most products like these have additives that render them unusable in a hybrid.

You likely need to have your A/C system evacuated and recharged by a competent facility. Your A/C compressor is a ticking time bomb unless you can confirm it was PURE R-134a.

 

Ouch...
Thanks alot, i'll go get that guy asap, and check what he did there

will post here of the result