I've been reading a few threads about the Stop Safely Now message showing up along with the wrench and triangle symbols, but I'm not sure I have the exact same issue because my car doesn't start at all. My 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid 4WD just hit 100,000 miles and runs great and has been very reliable. I bought it new in 2007, I keep it garaged, and for the past several years, I've put very few miles per year on it. The other day, it wouldn't start at all when I turned the key. The triangle light, the wrench light, and a light that looks like an engine show up and stay on, and the message "Stop Safely Now" pops up. The car lights and buzzers and bells work fine. The 12V battery is not dead, and just to be sure it had ample power, I jumped it using another car but this changed nothing. The theft system lights don't stay on and flash or anything after I initially turn on the ignition. I remember a "Stop Safely Now" or "Pull Over Safely" message popping up in 2011 when I was driving on the freeway and the car suddenly turned itself off a few seconds after that message appeared. However in that case, I was able to restart the car and limp it home on the backroads while it continually repeated that scenario and I repeatedly waited a moment and restarted the engine. In this case, the engine doesn't even begin to turn over. In 2011 situation, the Ford garage replaced a hypersensitive module, which I believe had to do with the MECS Cooling Pump (5M6Z*8C419*A KIT - Water Pump Repair...according to the invoice I'm viewing) and then they cleared the codes and everything worked fine. Upon googling that situation, I discovered that it was a dangerous problem that had frequently been happening to FEH's which was well-documented across the internet. My current situation is obviously different. I am wondering if there is something I can try or something I can reset or replace on my own before having the car towed to the Ford garage and possibly be charged zillions? I should mention that the alert message to have my oil changed had recently started popping up before this incident so I obviously need to get the oil changed, but could that warning trigger such an extreme reaction? I'd sure appreciate any helpful suggestions and insights. Thanks!

 

In general, the problem is probably not the 12v battery since you were able to get it running, but if it is weak (but not dead), it could be causing some issues. . The solution could be simple like a fuse/fusible link, or more complicated such as the high voltage battery or its fan system failing, a problem with the air conditioning system, or some other control module has failed. A good diagnosis by a knowledgeable technician would be the best investment now, rather than try to guess what's wrong and spend money on things you do not need.
As I recall, 100k miles is the only major service needed where the spark plugs, fuel filter, and and accessory belt get changed.

 

How long had it been sitting prior to the failure to start?

 

It had been sitting in the garage no more than a few days. I don't drive it every day, and sometimes not for several days, and when I do, it is usually not very far from home, so the mileage is quite low.
After a few days of me checking things out on the car and watching videos, I could see that the coolant pump was not functioning when the car was turned on. I could not see that any of the clear low voltage fuses were blown, but I could not see whether the high voltage ones were because they are not translucent. I had it towed to a Ford dealership on Sunday when I could get the help of my other half to drive me back home. On Monday morning, the service mgr called and told me that they couldn't get to the car for several days, and that the ABS light was also on. I'd taken a photo of the dashboard, so I know it wasn't on before it got towed there. The service mgr just sent me a photo of the dashboard today showing it on. I know that various lights can come on when you first turn the ignition key and then quickly shut off, so perhaps that is when he took the snapshot...or perhaps the tone ring was broken when the tow truck driver chained up the front wheels on his flatbed tow truck? Also, the service manager called said today that the low battery light on the dash was also on, but his photo of the dashboard that he sent me this morning does not indicate that. He said that the battery tested low and should be replaced to assure an accurate readout when they do finally run the diagnostics. My battery was working for days running all of the electrics on the vehicle, so I rather doubt this, and also because the light was not on, and also because he said yesterday they couldn't even look at the vehicle for days, so why would they have been checking out the battery. He texted me asking if I'd had the battery replaced and when and if it was at the Ford dealership and I replied "yes" and sent him a picture of the invoice/receipt from that dealership in 2014 for a new battery. I thought it was odd that he said he had no record that I'd ever been to their dealership before when in fact I'd had my battery changed there in 2014 and I'd also been to that dealership in 2011 when they replaced my faulty coolant pump at no charge. Somehow, after I told him that, he then said he could pull up that faulty coolant pump service record (maybe he was working off Ford's records for the vehicle). When I mentioned that it was odd they had no record of me, he said the dealership had been sold in 2015, so perhaps my records didn't transfer across. He went on to tell me that the battery would no longer be under warranty since I bought it in 2014. When I questioned him about the dashboard symbols that were showing up and sent him my photo of my dashboard, he then said that since I could show him my receipt, that was lucky because he could get me a partial pro-ration on the new battery that he insisted should be installed. When I asked if the battery could be the simple answer to all of this with no further repair needs, he said probably not. He would not tell me when they could simply plug the diagnostic tool into the car, he just wanted to sell me that battery. I asked him if he could simply plug the diagnostic tool in and get a read-out now (for which they charge $200), and he said yes, but that he couldn't be sure that the readout would be accurate because of the battery not being fully chargeable. I am really having a hard time believing this fellow and his changing and conflicting stories. My battery seemed very strong. It is nearing the end of the month and I'm wondering if there is just a battery sales push going on.

 

If you want someone to read what you "type," you really need to present it as more than just a giant wall of text.

 

I read it all without any trouble? Buy the battery if it is 4 years old you need a new one anyway...... probably already done that, so what was the real issue with your FORD ( Found On Road Dead) vehicle. I would enjoy another wall of text if you can muster up one?

 

 

Kermit that is totally fascinating information, thanks for posting that. This makes me wonder if the GM Hybrid vehicles might also use a super charge button like that?
On the Battery purchase I think that you have the right attitude, consider it to be a Preventative Maintenance item. Also seems pretty reasonable to get out for only 200 bones AND get a brand new battery. (equal to the cost of about 4 tanks of gas)
Life Is Good again in the Hybrid world. "SAVING THE PLANET ONE ELECTRON AT A TIME" man I want that as a bumper sticker on my Lifted/Knobby Tire Hybrid TaHOe.

09 myHo