Bleeding brakes
 

I am afraid, one of my rear calipers is sticky.

Which is no big deal to refurbish it or replace it.

Big deal is - bleeding the brakes thereafter. Of course, I am not going to dealer.
But, also, I have heard a lot of buzz about those cars not been able to be bled without a scan tool.

So, before I start tearing things apart, can I simply bleed them with pedal, or vacuum pump, I do have that, and then get out on a rod and slam on brakes 5-6 times, what is normally bleeding ABS module?

I'll be doing rear struts soon, planning on doing caliper same time.

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

Subscribed...

I would just get a kit and rebuild it if kits are even available? Rebuilt ones are usually junk from the auto parts stores and new ones are probably astronomically expensive. Put a speed bleeder on there maybe for bleeding? Another one for GAHy.

Maybe get one off a salvage car, rebuild it to save down time on your car. Then save your old one as back up.

Do you think you will have a camber issue with the rear struts as well. After you posted all of that the other day, I was reading where someone had a problem with the rears as well. Forgot where I read that?

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

That isn't issue. Issue is breeding. Darn thing has too many computers.

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

Right... As I posted above, have you considered using a speed bleeder?

Get a decent cap before you remove the caliper, cap the line immediately after you remove it. Fill the caliper with brake fluid before installation. Quickly install the hose on the new caliper. There wont be much air in there. When you have it all assembled and back together, crack the speed bleeder with a small hose attached and cycle the brakes a few times.

I did this on a 2005 Mercedes Benz CDI with a braking system that is probably more complicated than this one with no issues at all.

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

Yes, I do have power bleeder.
I care not about camber, I know how to adjust that.
I am only worried about ABS module, as there have been several posts here and there saying that you can not bleed TCH without scan tool, as ABS actuators must be moved.

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

ukrkoz

There is a VERY specific bleeding procedure for the Camry Hybrid. You are right in that you need a scan tool and besides the ABS unit, the brake actuators are also electric and controlled by computer. You do not have a normal "master cylinder" like a normal car. The computer takes input from the brake pedal and adjusts the amount of regen and hydraulic brakes are required to stop the car.

Because of that, all braking is actually performed at the right front of the engine compartment. The only way to bleed the %#!!!!&**## brakes is to hook up the scan tool, sacrifice 3 chickens and one politician, say prayers to what ever deity you desire and hope the manual is correct.

By the way, you DO have a shop manual or a subscription don't you? If not, that would be the first thing to check out.

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

****. Usually you are bearer of better news.
Well, hoping it's not the caliper. I'll have rear ends torn apart anyway for struts install. That whoomp whoomp in the back is not going away. Have no idea what it is. But when I did rear brake pads, one pad on one side was worn out much more on caliper side, which is normally not a good sign.

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

Brake Bleeding Steps
Cautions:
–
Scanner is needed for most procedures.
–
Remove pump motor relays 1& 2 until
told to install or in some operations they
will instruct you to remove and re-
install, but you do not want the pump
running while servicing.
–
When removing any part of the system,
remove relays and bleed pressure off
before removing any lines.

Brake Bleeding Steps
1. Connect hand-held tester & select diagnostic
menu (ABS/VSC air bleeding)
2. List:
1.Usual
2.Actuator
3. Master Cylinder or Stroke Simulator
Hint: A “FAILED” message will appear in any mode of
bleeding if the system believes there is still air present.
Simply return to MENU, repeat procedure.
3. Fill reservoir (DOT 3) with brake fluid.
Brake Bleeding Steps
4
.
To bleed the front/rear brakes select “USUAL”
and follow on screen prompts to “turn off ignition,
remove motor relays 1&2, turn ignition on then
press enter.
5. An “Operations” screen will appear and allow the
front brakes to be bleed in the normal fashion.
6. Press enter and a screen will appear saying turn
ignition off, install relays, and turn ignition on.
Press enter.
7. A screen will appear saying hold brake pedal
down and bleed air from left rear wheel.
(The actuator pump motor will run while pedal is depressed.)
8. The next screen will allow for bleeding in the
same manner for the right rear.
9. Pressing enter a screen should come up to say
Complete. If not, repeat.
10. Bleeding the Actuator is much the same. Follow
on screen prompts to bleed at the wheels in a
defined order.
11. Option is available to bleed the air from the
stroke simulator line. Screen will come up
wanting the pedal depressed 20 times in 20
seconds/ hold pedal on last (20
th
) stroke to
bleed.
12. Bleeding the Master Cylinder/ Stroke Simulator
requires following the screen prompts, first
performing the USUAL procedure for front wheels
as before.
DO NOT FORGET TO CLEAR THE
DTCs.

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

Sucks...


BLEED REAR BRAKE SYSTEM

CAUTION: Never bleed air from the brake hydraulic system without using the intelligent tester. Failure to use the intelligent tester could cause serious injury or an accident.

NOTICE: Bleed air by following the steps displayed on the intelligent tester.

(a) Connect the intelligent tester to the DLC3 with the power switch off.
(b) Check that the parking brake is applied and turn the power switch on (IG).
(c) Turn the intelligent tester on and select "DIAGNOSTIC MENU"->"ABS/ VSC"->"ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED BRAKE SYSTEM UTILITY"->"ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED BRAKE SYSTEM INVALID".
(d) With the brake pedal depressed, bleed the rear brake system from the bleeder plug on the rear disc brake cylinder LH while the pump motor and solenoid are operating.

CAUTION: Keep the fluid inside the reservoir above the LOW level by replenishing.

HINT:

Depress and hold the brake pedal.
After the solenoid operates for approximately 30 seconds , release the brake pedal to stop the solenoid.
Repeat the procedures until air is completely bled from the rear brake system.
The brake control warning light comes on and the buzzer sounds while bleeding, but they do not indicate a malfunction.

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

Good grief there's a lot involved. If you attempt this, I look forward to hearing how it all went. Be safe!

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

Will a "mongoose" cable with TIS work to bleed the brakes, or is a full techstream required?

I need a new actuator, but dont want to pay $3000 for it especially since I have 215,000 miles on my car. $3000 is over half the value of my car.

If the mongoose cable and tis work, i can do the jokb myself for under $900 using a rebuilt actuator and a chinese knock off of the mongoose cable.

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

No, hell, no. I'll outsource this. Greg's Japanese Auto or shops like that.

Though I am VERY suspicious, that for single corner caliper bleed, all this is not necessary and it can be bled regular way, or having vacuum pump attached and fluid simply sucked out. As far as fluid level stays good in the canister, how can it possibly go wrong in a closed circuit system? Actuators or not.

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

I'll bet that when you open the bleed screw the system senses fluid loss and closes that brake line at the actuator to prevent total brake system failure.

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

That is possible. Ain't no telling until you try it, aye, mate? Also, what if I simply pull ECM and brake assist fuses out? To turn it into a dumb hydraulic system? As as far as I understand, if brake assist fails, brakes go into what is called a fail mode, which is conventional hydraulic brake.

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

ukrkoz,

Take a look under the hood, you have NO connection to the "master cylinder" like you do in a normal car. The ECM controls ALL of the braking using a brake by wire management system. If you pull the computer out of the equation, make sure your insurance is paid up....

As far as the "mongoose" cable is concerned, try running the actuator tests to see if it will perform them. If it does, give it a try. the worst that can happen is that you have it towed to the dealer or indie shop to have them bleed it.

Have you figured out what critter to sacrifice yet??

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

Have you figured out what critter to sacrifice yet??

??????

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

Okra and corn bread.

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

If you decide to try this, what critter will you sacrifice to the auto gods? Chicken? Goat?, Pig?......
Cruel humor from the south....

EDIT:

I screwed up (old age is setting in) and edited ukrkoz"s post instead of quoting it and didn't catch it. Apologies to all for that...

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

David, you think this scanner will work on our cars? For say cost of bleeding brakes, and what else, it might be worth buying it.

http://www.dhgate.com/product/dhgate...FRFxQgodk2kA5w

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

I have no idea if that one would work or not. You could try calling them to see what they tell you about the capabilities.

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

Oh well. It's only $150 to bleed brakes at dealership

I actually found where the noise is coming from. It is coming from driver side rear. This time, I could reproduce it from hand.
Thing is, and I forgot, I had pass side rotor replaced. Driver side one was still OEM Toyota one. I had new ceramic pads installed, and from what I now recall from my wife's RX300 experience, ceramic pads and Toyota rotors do not go together well. Her car was making very similar rubbing whoomp whoomp right before coming to halt. This one makes same sound taking off.
Rotor did look a bit overheated, but not blu-ish, sort of very light brown-ish. I simply could not tell. And it was awfully glazed.
So far, I took rotor off, and removed as much glaze as I could with wire brush. Flipped caliper piston up, peeled dust boot off, and sprayed some Quick Wrench type fluid everywhere around piston. Pressed it out half way stepping on the brake pedal (yeah, it's spooky - you step on the pedal, have normal pedal feel, and pedal actuators come up like machine guns) and sprayed good spray lubricant onto piston. Put dust boot back on.
I drove her out and she did not do any whoomp, but I need to do it again. She does this only after prolonged parking. Maybe it's issue of little rust build up.. I'll simply replace that rotor. Worse come to worse, will swap caliper next Saturday and go to dealership.
Litespeed, those calipers have banjo line connection. You can't cap that.

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

Never even looked at them man. Just trying to find a way to help you out.

Actually, you can cap a banjo line connection. Just a little more complicated with a "fluid bolt".

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

[quote=litespeed;250216]Never even looked at them man. Just trying to find a way to help you out.

Actually, you can cap a banjo line connection. Just a little more complicated with a "fluid bolt".[/quote

help is always appreciated. Love and peace.

Re: Bleeding brakes
 

I got one of the knock-off mongoose MFC cables, and a copy of techstream. You can run the actuator test and activate the brake-bleed procedure using that cable.

You can get the cable with a "bootleg" copy of techstream for around $20 on e-bay or around $30 on amazon. There is a bit of a trick to get the drivers properly installed, and it likes to run on a 32 bit computer, but once it is running it works just like the dealer's computer system.

I plan to replace my actuator myself and then bleed the brakes and give the dealer a big middle finger for trying to get over $3,000 out of me for a part/job that should run around $500.

I'm just glad I got well over 200,000 miles out of the first actuator unlike some that have as few as 40,000 miles before theirs failed.

The other bonus of the MFC cable is the ability to change all of the custom settings in the ecu. I have 3 Toyotas and now they all have the seatbelt warning chimes turned off.