Okay, it took me about an hour and a half. (I know, most do it in 30 minutes, but I'm really **** about my installs) My HID's are in. Digital ballasts are mounted to the frame in existing grounding locations. I was not willing to "wire-tie" them in place. They are physically bolted to the frame. I ran all the wires in wire looms, right next to the OEM wires. The install is VERY clean.

I have 4300k, 5000k and 6000k bulbs. I'm starting with the 6000k. I tried the 4300k and I didn't like the color. After a few nights I'll try out the 5000k. Though I have a feeling that the 6000k are going to the be winners.

Thanks to all those that helped with details and suggestions.

 

How did you wire up the power?

Also, let us know which you choose. I am thinking the 5000k.

 

I used a Digital Ballast with a 50W start up draw, and 35W running draw. This allows for using the stock wiring to power the HIDs. The kit (from Retro Solutions) came with everything needed. The Ballasts are small, and appear to be built well. The only thing that I didn't like was that I thought the "Plug and Play" kit would use an H11 socket to power the Ballasts, instead they use two pins (with rubber boots). You stick the pins into the existing H11 socket. It works just fine, but I would rather have some type of locking system to hold them in. Electrical tape looks tacky.

So far, I'm leaning towards the 5000k. The 6000k are NICE, it's amazing just how much more they light up all the various reflective things on the road. However, I think they may draw too much attention. I don't want to look like I'm 17.

I'll swap them out tomorrow and try again tomorrow night.
Oh, and I've just finished replacing all of the interiour lighting with White LEDs. I can not stand that nasty old looking yellowish brown lighting. I ordered the LEDs from SuperBrightLEDs.com. I'm pretty happy with all of them, except the rear seat lights. They look almost purple with the lenses that Toyota used. I'm going to check out my brother-in-laws Lexus ES350 to see what they use in it.

 

Very nice, could you possibly provide a picture of the hid ballast installation location, I seem to have friends wanting me to install theirs and I am always looking for a better way.

Also could you provide a list of the led replacements for each light

thanking you in advance

tim

 

I will defiantly provide a list for the LED lighting. I am waiting for another order of LEDs before I do though. A few of the locations didn't work out very well with the first round. Once I get them all install and looking right, I'll give a list a what I used, and where.

Also, I'll post pics of the mounting locations.

 

Thanks David.

I to replaced all of my interior lights with LEDs, except:

1. The vanity lights as the LEDs were just not as bright (due to the orientation) and I figured if I ever need those lights they should be bright (thinking -- what to do if I get something stuck in my eye while on a trip at night).

2. The glove box light because it is useless since it only works when the headlights are on (stupid stupid feature -- it should turn whenever you open the glove box.).

3. The license plate lights (because I did not feel like taking it all apart).

To do the replacement I actually bought all white LEDs and all blue LEDs from SuperBrightLEDs. SuperBright was great to work with and even accepted a return order.

I ended up going with the blue :-P .... haha.

I am ordering my HID kit from MobileHID (5000K). They recommend wiring directly to the battery, but as you know, in our cars the battery is somewhat inconveniently located for such a thing (although it is conveniently located for audio installations).

Instead of running the power off the battery I think I am going to tap the main power line that connects to the fuse box. Since this is designed to supply power for all electronics, it should be rated high enough to handle the draw.

We'll see.

 

I chose to go 'Plug and Play' with a Digital kit so that I didn't have to run anything else. I wanted to make sure that I can VERY simply remove the HID kit and put the stock bulbs back in without having any trace of the HIDs.

As for the LED's, I've replaced them all already, except the license plate. I'm waiting an a new type to replace the rear lights. (the little directional / movable ones) They put out very little light with the LEDs that I bought.

For the trunk, I went Cold Cathode. The kit isn't here yet... I want a LOT of light in my trunk. I keep my tools and spare parts in the trunk, and when I'm working late, I need to be able to find what I need. (I'm a Contracted IT Manager -- Outsourced IT Staff)

License Plate LEDs are coming, I'm going to try the same that I'm using for the rear seat. I'll post pics of all of them once I'm done.

 

Did you go with six or nine LED bulbs? I went with mostly six. Except the trunk, which I went with nine.

 

Actually, Most of them are 5 LED. They worked out better for the most of the locations. The front map lights are pointed down, so I used 1W single LEDs in them. I'm waiting for some 6 LED ones that are different layout to try for the rear and license plate

 

I give up on the pictures. Just can't seem to get them. I'll explain where they are thought...


Okay - Passenger Side Ballast
When you look in the engine bay, find the ABS system. (Big pump with all the little tubes running in and out) It's at the front passenger side of the bay. Look just under that and you will see the frame rail. On the frame rail, below the ABS and A/C tubing, you will see a small bracket that is only supporting a small wire loom. I removed the bracket holding the loom, and verified that the loom was still well supported. I bolted the Ballast to the frame using the bolt from the bracket removed. Total Time: 15 minutes

Driver Side - This one was a *****.
Okay, The easy part is finding the mounting point. Remove the lower driver side grill cover. (Where the SE and XLE fog lights go) Get a flash light and look in, and up. you will see two things, on the left is a gray box about the size of a relay with some wires attached. Right next to it on the right is about 4 or 5 wires that are grounded to the frame. What I did was remove the bolt that attached them to the frame, and attached the ballast to the that point. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE GROUND WIRES ON THERE STILL.
now, I only say that, because you can't actually see what you are doing while you are mounting it. The opening was just big enough for my arm to fit, but no way to see while my arm was in there. I got the Ballast mounted, but when I looked in, the ground wires had moved and were just hanging there. So, I had to do it again.

Both mounting points are very secure, and should be pretty free of water and excess heat. The bolts were both 10mm. and both locations left enough room to easily remove and replace the bulbs.