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bwilson4web 12-09-2008 04:36 PM

Backup trick - NHW11
 
Hi,

So far, my experiments show this works with the NHW11. It may also work with the NHW20. However, it is a little "exciting" the first few times and somewhat risky if you are not practiced.

PROBLEM

Until the coolant reaches 70 C, the engine of the NHW11 runs regardless. If you are stopped at a light or stop sign due to traffic, the idling engine can make a significant impact on your mileage. However, turning off the car induces a second, more wasteful engine STOP/START cycle.

SOLUTION

NOTE: be sure to practice this with no other traffic around!
NOTE 2: it seems to work only with the coolant below 40C
  1. Hold the foot brake with your left foot, hard!
  2. Shift into "R".
  3. Pulse the accelerator. --> engine stops
  4. Shift into "N".
  5. Use right foot to hold brake, normally
  6. When light changes, shift into "D", release brake, and drive off
SYNOPSIS

This works because the NHW11 turns off the engine when going in reverse. However, it appears you only have to be in "R" and hit the accelerator. It doesn't notice that the car is being held stationary by the power front disk brakes. So pulsing the accelerator causes it to shutdown the ICE. Then you slip into "N" to keep it from restarting the ICE.

Now this process can be a little exciting and the steps have to be follow precisely. It is especially important that the left foot hold the brake HARD as backing into a car behind you will result in further delays. However, it seems to work. This may also work with the NHW20 but I do not have a test vehicle.

Subsequent testing indicates that shutting off the engine is a brief event. When the coolant temperature is under 40C, it works reliably. However, above 40C, there is brief pause and the engine continues to run. Still, when the engine is very cool, anytime it can be shutdown at a stop is a good thing.

Bob Wilson

wwest 12-10-2008 08:41 AM

Re: Backup trick - NHW11
 
Bob,

doesn't your complicated/convoluted technique result in just as many WASTEFUL stop and start engine cycles as would be the case in simply "turning off" the car..??

And with no "danger" in the "turning off" case...??

bwilson4web 12-10-2008 10:20 AM

Re: Backup trick - NHW11
 

Originally Posted by wwest (Post 193242)
. . .
doesn't your complicated/convoluted technique result in just as many WASTEFUL stop and start engine cycles as would be the case in simply "turning off" the car..??

And with no "danger" in the "turning off" case...??

It is a more efficient start/stop compared to the manual method:
  • hit "start" on key, all ECUs have to come up
  • MG1 spins ICE for 2-3 seconds
  • apply gas, ignition and wait for ICE response
With the "N" trick:
  • shift "D", all ECUs are already up
  • MG1 spins ICE and uses a faster, ~250 ms., power up
  • apply gas and ICE responds
My recommendation is to experiment with both approaches. My data suggests a manual start runs about a 5 MPG deficit even before the acceleration deficit. The "N" trick runs no deficit other than the normal acceleration cost.

Bob Wilson

GeorgiaHybrid 12-10-2008 11:18 AM

Re: Backup trick - NHW11
 
Bob,

When I first read the title, I was expecting to read that your new method was to drive to work in reverse during rush hour in Huntsville....:) That would have been exciting to watch.

centrider 12-10-2008 12:46 PM

Re: Backup trick - NHW11
 

Originally Posted by bwilson4web (Post 193202)
Hi,

So far, my experiments show this works with the NHW11. It may also work with the NHW20. However, it is a little "exciting" the first few times and somewhat risky if you are not practiced.

PROBLEM

Until the coolant reaches 70 C, the engine of the NHW11 runs regardless. If you are stopped at a light or stop sign due to traffic, the idling engine can make a significant impact on your mileage. However, turning off the car induces a second, more wasteful engine STOP/START cycle.

SOLUTION

NOTE: be sure to practice this with no other traffic around!

  1. Hold the foot brake with your left foot, hard!
  2. Shift into "R".
  3. Pulse the accelerator. --> engine stops
  4. Shift into "N".
  5. Use right foot to hold brake, normally
  6. When light changes, shift into "D", release brake, and drive off
SYNOPSIS

This works because the NHW11 turns off the engine when going in reverse. However, it appears you only have to be in "R" and hit the accelerator. It doesn't notice that the car is being held stationary by the power front disk brakes. So pulsing the accelerator causes it to shutdown the ICE. Then you slip into "N" to keep it from restarting the ICE.

Now this process can be a little exciting and the steps have to be follow precisely. It is especially important that the left foot hold the brake HARD as backing into a car behind you will result in further delays. However, it seems to work. This may also work with the NHW20 but I do not have a test vehicle.

Bob Wilson

INTRIGUING. Well, too many steps for me to handle.

wwest 12-11-2008 10:00 AM

Re: Backup trick - NHW11
 

Originally Posted by bwilson4web (Post 193259)
It is a more efficient start/stop compared to the manual method:
  • hit "start" on key, all ECUs have to come up
With ~43 years, and counting, in the computer business I have never "met" an ECU (computer system) that used more power during startup vs running, other than something like a disk drive spin-up.

You're assuming ECU shutdown (along with lights/accessories..?) during "off".

ADVANTAGE, overall
  • MG1 spins ICE for 2-3 seconds
How do you know..?

But if so that would be pretty **** poor programming. Most engines can be started under computer control within a minimum of 630 degrees of rotation, one of the major advantages of "E-start", you don't determine how long the starter is/remains engaged, the ECU does that.
  • apply gas, ignition and wait for ICE response
Hmmm..

Okay, under your technique, the light goes "green", YOU shift out of reverse, THEN, ONLY then, lift your foot from the brake, move your foot to the gas pedal and apply pressure. Now you wait to go forward after the engine restarts.

With the "N" trick:
  • shift "D", all ECUs are already up
Yes, having consumed POWER for the full duration of the traffic light "red", along with the power to the electric ABS pumpmotor assisted brakes being used to overcome the TORQUE being used in the ECU's attempt to move the car BACKWARDS against your braking.
  • MG1 spins ICE and uses a faster, ~250 ms., power up
Faster (re)start..?? How..??

A restart, or initial start, must turn the ICE over long enough for at least one cylinder to ingest an air charge, AFTER reaching an EFI injection time/period, and then, via a compression cycle, fire the ignition.

630 degrees, minimum, of crank rotation for a start.
  • apply gas and ICE responds
My recommendation is to experiment with both approaches. My data suggests a manual start runs about a 5 MPG deficit even before the acceleration deficit. The "N" trick runs no deficit other than the normal acceleration cost.

"My data suggests.."

Does NOT compute....


Bob Wilson

Do the lights/head lights and accessory powered components turn off in both techniques or only with a true shutdown.....

Is there a chance that your data is flawed because MPG computation is suspended in reverse due to "forward proess" not being possible...??


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