I'm going to invest in Forscan and see what that tells me. I plan on doing the Rebalancing feature. Do you know if that is available on an Android version of Forscan Lite? Thank you for the information.

 

I am not sure. Here is a feature comparison. It says it has the Service Procedures (which this is, it's called the RMode Balance Function) ... "Except Most Dangerous" and I'm not sure what that means. I don't consider that to be a "dangerous" procedure, so it's probably there.

https://forscan.org/comparsion.html

 

It should. I remember running it there before.

 

Alright Gents,

I have ran Forscan Lite from my android phone and have conducted some tests and readings. There is literally no codes whatsoever after running it a couple times. I performed the battery rebalance function and expected a time of 20-45 min until completion. I was surprised the test only ran for 13 minutes. After driving around the neighborhood I noticed a bit of improvement but much of the same. The assist needle doesn't go more than halfway up and when I step on the throttle the needle goes to "assist" for a second then back down to "charge."

I then read some of the stats, and I logged as follows

Battery Pack Maximum SOC is at 83.96%
" " Minimum SOC is at 48.97%

Average SOC is 78.96%
Battery Pack Voltage 320.19 V


I then conducted a battery test function and it found no faults. I'm curious what the battery reset function does and if I should try it. Are there any other notable stats/PIDs I should be monitoring? Thanks all!

 

This is very high. Your car is charging the battery pretty far and not using it. On the 09, mine goes between like 40 and 60%

 

***WARNING*** Nonexpert Opinion

It sounds to me like your battery is not providing much assist at all. I know the battery on my '10 FEH is beginning to 'slip' but I still get reliable assist when accelerating, climbing hills, starting from a dead stop, and on the highway. On on-ramps in particular I'll get easily 15 seconds of medium-strong assist as I accelerate to 65 or 70 going uphill (I have a gnarly on-ramp that is an uphill run that puts you right in the crosshairs of big rig trucks.) On flat ground around town, my car will run at 30-40 MPH in EV mode for over a mile with the (electric) A/C on, and I can clearly see the needle move about 1/3rd of the way into the "assist" range and stay there, until it has to spool up the ICE. When I drive home, most of the time I take a road that is a moderate downhill (overall) for more than 3 miles and the car runs in EV mode the entire time, even at night with the A/C and all the accessories on including high beams.

I am not familiar with the Battery Reset function - I've never tried it. But if it works like a Ford Fusion, what it does is allow you to "roll back" the declared age of the battery, which changes the way the BCM handles all aspects of battery tending. Some Fusion owners have reported that this has given new life to their vehicles. Others have cautioned that it could cause the batteries to overheat, and a few have speculated that it could even cause a fire. AFAIK nobody has reported a burning car after using it. Since nobody here on the Forum to my knowledge has ever tried it and reported their results, you could certainly do it and see what it offers (on the Fusion it apparently lets you set the battery age anywhere from "brand new" to the maximum age it has available.) You would be engaging in an experiment. I'd be interested to hear what happens, but I don't want to encourage you to do something that could harm your car.

On the other hand, it seems pretty clear that you're not getting the kind of performance out of the battery that you want. The car+battery are 16 years old...so....

Maybe someone else has something to add here...

 

Ok, I ran the reset. It produced P0AA7-60 and C1862-20. The P0AA7 comes back but the C1862 does not. Maybe some contactor or cabling problem is the cause of my P0AA7. I've pulled off quickly before and had that P0AA7 not come on. I don't think we've had any kind of aging built into our batteries, there is no PID for it. It simply monitors current output to check performance.

I found this on ebay and makes me wonder if this is the problem: https://www.ebay.com/itm/363338606667

 

Idk if my Average SOC is accurate at almost 79% but thats what the reading says. However at the time I was scanning my vehicle my current SOC was at 49.6%. I read that normally it'll be between 40-60% maybe?

BTW did you have any fault codes before doing the reset? I wonder if I reset mine if it'll produce any fault codes. Also did the reset affect the battery performance in any way? Interested to hear. I hope to have had a fault code of some kind to know where to begin.

 

I've been chasing that P0AA7 for a bit. No noticeable effects when I drove today. I watched the SOC too. Goes up to 52% or 53% and then at 41%-42% the engine comes on. At least in a 40ish mile drive.

I think our cars operate different than the 10+. He says he has assist all the way up a highway ramp but I lose electric on acceleration after about 15-20mph unless I accelerate really slow. When I let off the gas and I'm under 40mph I can go back into electric and stay there maintaining. Taking off from stop lights even at a moderate pace also pops on the engine. I'm guessing the 07 and below are similar but you would be able to confirm. The 10+ strategy doesn't seem any better since I get similar MPG.

You're basically free to reset as you want. If something comes up it might help pinpoint. If it's that same code it could be due to the reset. I have 2 places to look now for the P0AA7, in the battery data connector and in the service disconnect. On a previous thread someone replaced the battery BMS and it didn't fix it... but nobody ever messed with the service plug, the part looks like it has a sensor or something in there.

If you have the apk forscan, set up a chart with battery SOC/amperage/etc and watch what it's doing while driving. If the average is the average and you didn't reset the module or the PCM it should not be in the 70s. My "average" would be in the low 50s.

 

I'll try to take a picture of it tomorrow. I get on this ramp at less than 5 MPH and then it's uphill to 65 or 70, about 1000 feet total distance. It merges onto an interstate highway where there are a lot of trucks that are trying to conserve momentum and don't always have the ability to move to the middle lane to let you merge in, so you have to outrun them unless you want to hit the brakes hard in the last couple seconds and then sprint again. I call it my FEH's "morning constitutional" because it's "all hands on deck!" I usually hold the RPM at about 3,500-3,750 with the throttle and reach the end of the ramp at about 68MPH every time, no drama. It's very linear and predictable from day to day. The engine maintains almost the same RPM over the entire distance and speed range, so I know the eCVT has to be changing the effective gear ratio by varying the amount of power contributed by the ICE and RPM of the traction motor over the entire distance. Once I reach highway speed I back off, put it in Cruise and the tach. drops down to about 2,300 with the EV gauge going back to dead center (or sometimes a little charging if I'm running the A/C and it's really hot.)

I run this drill almost every day and it's almost the same story every day - it's one of my benchmarks for how the car is performing.