I have not had auto stop issues, however its my first winter with it here. We have not had temps much lower than -15C.

Try driving in manual mode in the city for a bit to get your battery charged up to the max they allow. Then switch to regular drive and see if you can get it to stay on E only.

I stop and go traffic I can often get over 3 KM on battery only and I am easy on the throttle.

Have you connected the Torque pro app yet and check the voltages of your battery module pairs?

Chees,
Jaco

 

sorry I missed your post.

I can only really tell you how it runs now, as my battery was probably bad when I got it, it just didn't show the really bad signs yet. my 2 cents is its really not using the lithium batteries that hard at all, I think one of skeith's concerns was the nmhi programming would run the lithium down to low of change and damage the batteries because of the voltage curve. which makes sense but to my eye I don't see it. it feels to me like it doesn't add a crazy amount of battery time, if anything I expected a little longer. the over all voltage and cell voltage just don't drop that low before cranking the engine. which it does crank seamless. like it has a good reserve of power, where the old nmhi struggled the most was the crank voltage.
as for driving, now I will say I adjusted my speedo using hptuners to be more accurate. my ecm mph was correct but my dash was 2mph high and it annoyed me. when I made that change it seemed to start the engine sooner. so I probably should move it back and test. but anyways, under like 10mph you can get into the throttle pretty good, climb hills and take away almost as fast as normal traffic from stop signs and left turns but red lights you're going to get into gas in a few feet. it's pretty good, but between 10 and 20mph you need to be kinda light on the throttle. anything above 20 you can basically just hold that speed or creep up on it on flat ground and bearly picking up speed, once your near 30 it's really hard to get into auto stop, like you said, you pretty much need to get it above 30 on gas and come down and catch it around 30 and hold very steady. not something that would happen without trying and there's no gas mileage to be had there. I believe that's all in the tuning, as I've seen it pull over 50amp under 10mph no problem, but maybe 20amps around 20mph and it starts.

the state of charge isn't correct with the different battery type, but just as a reference mine doesn't go full charge or discharge, just like 65 - 50 something.

when doing the log test I popped the hood and ran it at 2k rpm until it read 70% soc. higher than I've ever seen it driving around. and ran it all way down to crank with a 10amp load, which is way more than it sees in normal driving. so to be honest, I think it's using a bit less capacity than the nimh batteries, not more even though the battery are rated at more capacity. but again I don't have a new nmhi battery to compare it to.


also gm did a lot of changes to the battery software along the way, I get the feeling in 08 it worked the batteries pretty hard to get good mileage but they soon realized it would never make the 8 year 100k battery warranty, so they tuned down how hard it worked the battery and kinda fudged the numbers as to when it reports the battery is out of range. it would be super interesting to see a log between the older software Rev and the latest but with so little support for these trucks and how few are on the road, I don't think we will ever see anything like that. so at this point it will be interesting to see how these packs are in a year or 2.


as for mileage, mine does well to me(well the wife drive it's 90% of the time) for not having the 4cyl mode anymore and I honestly haven't even changed the plugs and wires since I got it. I still need to do full maintenance, I did the tranny but haven't done the t-case or both diff fluid changes let alone plugs and wires haha. I feel like the regen is probably hard on the decel side of the ring gear, they aren't really meant for that, especially with 138k lol. but I'll get around to it as it runs good it kinda gets put on the bottom of the list. it's probably time for a full coolent fluse too. I'd hate for the coolent to turn in the hybrid electronics over me being lazy. dexcool does goes go bad at some point.

 

Hold my beer please as it made it to 109k at 15 years old . jan/2008 build date. i'm going to keep punishing the battery and take it threw the summer time I just gotta get passed this winter...

gotta find a new job i really want the lithium battery..it will not even take long to save the 3,000$ for it.. 3mo at the most

 

be careful with the coolant change you need to use deionized water..

just buy the premixed 50/50 (cheaper as deionized water is 11$ a gallon, no net savings)

Using tap water to flush it will damage the hybrid inverter module..

 

mileage doesn't seem bad but the years are definitely getting up there. can you post a log of how they are acting?

at some point I'm not sure these are even that safe to drive when the battery completely goes. mine did some weird stuff, and I've read of guys having the truck Rev up to 3k while off the gas and on the brakes. I'd try to be ready to pop it in neutral if the gets to crazy.

 

yeah, never use tap water in cooling systems of any type these days. we have big water deionizing setup at work for servicing our battery equipment. the big lead acid packs get a monthly equalizing charge and top off the water. we also use it for cooling systems but I will just buy the premix dexcool. my stuff lists the hybrid capacity at 2.9QT. so no biggie. the radiator will be a bit expensive haha.

 

I got a P0A80 code that says: "Battery EOL High Resistance" according to the DTC information manual, the specific manual for the Tahoe/Yukon/Escalade


it could also be dirty bus bar ...but 99% chance it's the battery

 

my bus bars and terminals were pretty green and corroded on my oem packs when I took it apart. I'm sure they aren't great, but not sure it's worth replacing the bus bars on your old pack. on a prius it might help, but these trucks seem to damage their cells much faster.


I did notice on a good scanner it will list the battery resistance, or impeadance. never really knew the difference lol. I thought about it later I wished I'd have checked before and after the battery swap, just to see what it came up with for the lithium. I'd expect them to be a much lower internal resistance, but like state of charge, who really knows if the math they use for nmhi would show any useful numbers for lithium packs. ​​​

 

Haven't you had a bad battery for years now?

 

It refuses to start with the key.(it does try to crank for a split second ). it does crank with remote start, Auto stop doesn't work(will not restart) in drive it randomly stalls.. m4 not as often but occasionally stalls..

i was just waiting for it to get a code.. Luckily I was able to get my tags and pass smog before it check engine on me.

I was going to get a battery with hybrid2go but they jacked up the price while they're charging 2399 for the silverado and 2699 for the tahoe and 2499 for GMC and escalade...


i'm sure the silverado is far more labor then the tahoe(considering the fact that the battery can be pulled out of the tailgate instead of the side door) as i see they have a lower price for the GMC and escalade
the price scheme doesn't make any sense since both of those are identical to the tahoe anyways, I already got the SUV apart ready for the battery to be unbolted...