New exhaust 2 1/4"
#21
10-15-2005, 01:22 AM
Re: New exhaust 2 1/4"
Wow man, that's too much info for me. **** I'm lame!
Anyways, couple of questions, what's "CC breather"?
Wouldn't removing the air box, and for that matter the exhaust, void the warranty?
Seeing as you seem to have some experiences with mufflers, what do you think about flowmasters or dynomax?
So you not only replaced the muffler but you also replaced your air filter?
Anyways, couple of questions, what's "CC breather"?
Wouldn't removing the air box, and for that matter the exhaust, void the warranty?
Seeing as you seem to have some experiences with mufflers, what do you think about flowmasters or dynomax?
So you not only replaced the muffler but you also replaced your air filter?
#22
10-15-2005, 08:38 AM
Re: New exhaust 2 1/4"
Originally Posted by malditos
Wow man, that's too much info for me. **** I'm lame!
Anyways, couple of questions, what's "CC breather"?
Wouldn't removing the air box, and for that matter the exhaust, void the warranty?
Seeing as you seem to have some experiences with mufflers, what do you think about flowmasters or dynomax?
So you not only replaced the muffler but you also replaced your air filter?
Anyways, couple of questions, what's "CC breather"?
Wouldn't removing the air box, and for that matter the exhaust, void the warranty?
Seeing as you seem to have some experiences with mufflers, what do you think about flowmasters or dynomax?
So you not only replaced the muffler but you also replaced your air filter?
That is an argument to be settled between you and the dealer, they have to prove that the damage (assuming your car craps out) was caused by the mods. The air is reversible in less than 10-15min, the exhaust is to if you keep it. Think about ALL the cars/trucks you see with exhaust and you will be safe, as for the air look online and if it runs they sell a kit for it so I would imagine you would be ok there to. My car has been in the shop twice with the air mod and they did not say anything.
According to the flowbench, two of the best flowing units you can buy are the Walker Dyno Max and the Cyclone Sonic. They even slightly out flow the straight through designs from HKS and GReddy BL series. Amongst the worst, are the Thrush Turbo and Flow Master mufflers. We'll flow some of the newer mufflers as they become available at our local Chief auto.
Correct
#24
10-18-2005, 03:46 PM
Re: New exhaust 2 1/4"
Sort of; the ones I am talking about can be bought at AutoZone. O'Reillys, etc.
You choose the color:
PN: 8131, 8132, 8134, 8136, 8138
http://www.powerflowracing.com/prdlist.asp?PG=2&PSG=9
http://www.powerflowracing.com/prtdetail.asp?PD=672
Clif
BTW I beat my best tank ever (with 500 miles on the tank before mod) mpg's and total. I am currently running 59mpg with 280 miles on tank and I have been using the cruise running at 70 to and from places where I couldn't get 50 before. Even in extreme hills running the same path as another HCH 5spd I overall beat him by almost 4mpg and I only downshifted once compared to his almost every hill.
So far I am most pleased with the results, if you couldn't tell
You choose the color:
PN: 8131, 8132, 8134, 8136, 8138
http://www.powerflowracing.com/prdlist.asp?PG=2&PSG=9
http://www.powerflowracing.com/prtdetail.asp?PD=672
Clif
BTW I beat my best tank ever (with 500 miles on the tank before mod) mpg's and total. I am currently running 59mpg with 280 miles on tank and I have been using the cruise running at 70 to and from places where I couldn't get 50 before. Even in extreme hills running the same path as another HCH 5spd I overall beat him by almost 4mpg and I only downshifted once compared to his almost every hill.
So far I am most pleased with the results, if you couldn't tell
#26
10-19-2005, 08:32 AM
Re: New exhaust 2 1/4"
"If" you are asking me:
I did the air filter months ago, first thing I did within a month of buying the car.
Yes
I am not saying one is better than the other but one is a lot easier to find and a lot cheaper that is why I am using it.
Clif
I did the air filter months ago, first thing I did within a month of buying the car.
Yes
I am not saying one is better than the other but one is a lot easier to find and a lot cheaper that is why I am using it.
Clif
#27
10-19-2005, 09:03 AM
Re: New exhaust 2 1/4"
Duc,
The air filter interests me. I've never done a mod like that before, and I read through your instructions and had a few questions. I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I'm not totally incompetent with tools. :-)
The air filter is housed in this plastic case and connected to the round pipe leading to the engine. You suggested removing that, and installing the cone filter directly over the pipe and securing it. Couple questions:
This suggests to me that there is no adaptor requried between the "pipe" leading to the extisting filter and the new cone filter. Take off one, put on the other. Is it really that simple?
Also, I'm guessing the cone filters don't have the same plastic housing as the stock filter. I'm assuming that's OK (yes, stupid question, but this is my first time considering something like this). Essentially, the cone filter is just exposed to rest of the engine compartment.
What about replacement? Do you have to buy a whole new "cone"? How often?
Lastly, do you think the filter by itself would make an FE difference? Thanks!
The air filter interests me. I've never done a mod like that before, and I read through your instructions and had a few questions. I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I'm not totally incompetent with tools. :-)
The air filter is housed in this plastic case and connected to the round pipe leading to the engine. You suggested removing that, and installing the cone filter directly over the pipe and securing it. Couple questions:
This suggests to me that there is no adaptor requried between the "pipe" leading to the extisting filter and the new cone filter. Take off one, put on the other. Is it really that simple?
Also, I'm guessing the cone filters don't have the same plastic housing as the stock filter. I'm assuming that's OK (yes, stupid question, but this is my first time considering something like this). Essentially, the cone filter is just exposed to rest of the engine compartment.
What about replacement? Do you have to buy a whole new "cone"? How often?
Lastly, do you think the filter by itself would make an FE difference? Thanks!
#28
10-19-2005, 09:51 AM
Re: New exhaust 2 1/4"
The air filter is housed in this plastic case and connected to the round pipe leading to the engine. You suggested removing that, and installing the cone filter directly over the pipe and securing it. Couple questions:
This suggests to me that there is no adaptor requried between the "pipe" leading to the extisting filter and the new cone filter. Take off one, put on the other. Is it really that simple?
Yes it is. The stock box assy comes off with just a couple bolts (3 I think but I would have to ck) then you slide the new one on over the stock tube that connects to the motor. Tighten the clamp and you are done, if you use a CC breather if not then you have a couple more steps.
Also, I'm guessing the cone filters don't have the same plastic housing as the stock filter. I'm assuming that's OK (yes, stupid question, but this is my first time considering something like this). Essentially, the cone filter is just exposed to rest of the engine compartment.
Correct it will be just sitting in the eng comp exposed, you could build a splash guard or heat shield if you want but I am running mine open. Almost every aftermarket company sells this exact setup (exposed filter) and I run everything I own this way.
What about replacement? Do you have to buy a whole new "cone"? How often?
The filter is cotton and is washable, buy it and at the same time (or later your choice) by a K&N re-charge kit. It comes with special soap and filter oil for about $12 and will last for years if you clean and oil you filter every few months. Like any other filter just monitor it for cleanliness and instead of replacing it clean it as needed.
Lastly, do you think the filter by itself would make an FE difference? Thanks!
Can't say for sure since I did mine before I honed my hybrid driving skills but I can say it made a power difference so FE should follow. Here is a money saving way to make your own decision:
Take out you stock assy and put a pantie hose over the tube, make sure you secure it with a tie strap so it does not get sucked into your engine.
Drive your car for a couple of days and see if you notice any increase in anything if you don't reverse the steps if you do then replace the pantie hose with a filter.
Free and safe way of determining the end results that will take you less then 15min total.
Clif
This suggests to me that there is no adaptor requried between the "pipe" leading to the extisting filter and the new cone filter. Take off one, put on the other. Is it really that simple?
Yes it is. The stock box assy comes off with just a couple bolts (3 I think but I would have to ck) then you slide the new one on over the stock tube that connects to the motor. Tighten the clamp and you are done, if you use a CC breather if not then you have a couple more steps.
Also, I'm guessing the cone filters don't have the same plastic housing as the stock filter. I'm assuming that's OK (yes, stupid question, but this is my first time considering something like this). Essentially, the cone filter is just exposed to rest of the engine compartment.
Correct it will be just sitting in the eng comp exposed, you could build a splash guard or heat shield if you want but I am running mine open. Almost every aftermarket company sells this exact setup (exposed filter) and I run everything I own this way.
What about replacement? Do you have to buy a whole new "cone"? How often?
The filter is cotton and is washable, buy it and at the same time (or later your choice) by a K&N re-charge kit. It comes with special soap and filter oil for about $12 and will last for years if you clean and oil you filter every few months. Like any other filter just monitor it for cleanliness and instead of replacing it clean it as needed.
Lastly, do you think the filter by itself would make an FE difference? Thanks!
Can't say for sure since I did mine before I honed my hybrid driving skills but I can say it made a power difference so FE should follow. Here is a money saving way to make your own decision:
Take out you stock assy and put a pantie hose over the tube, make sure you secure it with a tie strap so it does not get sucked into your engine.
Drive your car for a couple of days and see if you notice any increase in anything if you don't reverse the steps if you do then replace the pantie hose with a filter.
Free and safe way of determining the end results that will take you less then 15min total.
Clif
#29
10-19-2005, 10:34 AM
Re: New exhaust 2 1/4"
Thanks for the great answers! I may give this a try. I can't stop laughing at the thought of pantie hose in my engine compartment. 
My luck I'd mess it up and would have to confront a bunch of giggling mechanics as I explain how pantie hose got sucked into my engine....I may assume the risk of just buying the filter just to avoid embarassment. 
One last question on the CC breather - you implied it's optional. What does it do? Is it something I really need, or can I just replace the filter as you described?
Thanks again!
My luck I'd mess it up and would have to confront a bunch of giggling mechanics as I explain how pantie hose got sucked into my engine....I may assume the risk of just buying the filter just to avoid embarassment. One last question on the CC breather - you implied it's optional. What does it do? Is it something I really need, or can I just replace the filter as you described?
Thanks again!
Last edited by Tim; 10-19-2005 at 10:39 AM.
#30
10-19-2005, 11:45 AM
Re: New exhaust 2 1/4"
One last question on the CC breather - you implied it's optional.
What does it do?
Is it something I really need, or can I just replace the filter as you described?
Thanks again!
It is optional because you can mod your filter and pipe the fumes into it, it is necessary in one form or the other.
Think of your eng as being sealed, if it wasn't you'd leak oil correct. Now imagine your sealed eng builds up pressure and it needs to vent but it can't because it is sealed. What would happen is you would blow seals so wala the CC (crankcase) breather. When your eng needs to burp it is there to vent the pressure versus blowing seals.
You do not need to buy one if you are thrifty and own a drill if you do/are not then you will need one. You can either buy a filter at autoparts store like:
PN# 3992, 3994, 3995, 3996, 3998
http://www.powerflowracing.com/prdlist.asp?PG=2&PSG=9
Slide it on, clamp it, and be done (fastest, easiest, but cost money) or drill the end of the cone filter, install a nipple, and connect it with a 3/8 piece of tube.
Clif
What does it do?
Is it something I really need, or can I just replace the filter as you described?
Thanks again!
It is optional because you can mod your filter and pipe the fumes into it, it is necessary in one form or the other.
Think of your eng as being sealed, if it wasn't you'd leak oil correct. Now imagine your sealed eng builds up pressure and it needs to vent but it can't because it is sealed. What would happen is you would blow seals so wala the CC (crankcase) breather. When your eng needs to burp it is there to vent the pressure versus blowing seals.
You do not need to buy one if you are thrifty and own a drill if you do/are not then you will need one. You can either buy a filter at autoparts store like:
PN# 3992, 3994, 3995, 3996, 3998
http://www.powerflowracing.com/prdlist.asp?PG=2&PSG=9
Slide it on, clamp it, and be done (fastest, easiest, but cost money) or drill the end of the cone filter, install a nipple, and connect it with a 3/8 piece of tube.
Clif
