HID Conversion complete
#21
08-14-2008, 02:22 PM
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 171
Re: HID Conversion complete
I did not run anything to the battery. I used Digital Ballasts that only draw 60 watts on startup, then drop to 35 watts once the bulbs are lit and hot. I was able to make a direct plug-in harness for the ballasts.
#22
08-14-2008, 03:23 PM
Re: HID Conversion complete
Hmmm....I'm not getting it. So these digi ballasts offer and supply a self-contained power source for the HIDs to fire and run independent of the TCH's power plant? What am I missing? Thx
#23
08-14-2008, 10:42 PM
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 171
Re: HID Conversion complete
It's just a Digital version of an HID ballast. A normal ballast (less expensive) uses up to 100W on startup. The Digital ones simply draw less power on startup. This allows you to run it off of the stock wiring without risk of burning them up.
#24
08-15-2008, 03:51 AM
Re: HID Conversion complete
hey intrus, love all the info you provided .... (much appreciated!!!)
#25
10-06-2008, 11:58 AM
Re: HID Conversion complete
I have read there is a problem using HID on the TCH. Squirrel spotters.... I think they are saying that it blinds other drivers. I just don't understand how it would be different from standard bulbs. I really would like to change to HID but I don't want to modify the lights by bending metal. Has anyone had a problem with their HID?
#26
10-07-2008, 12:06 PM
Ridiculously Active Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Mid Hudson Valley, New York
Posts: 1,389
Re: HID Conversion complete
I have read there is a problem using HID on the TCH. Squirrel spotters.... I think they are saying that it blinds other drivers. I just don't understand how it would be different from standard bulbs. I really would like to change to HID but I don't want to modify the lights by bending metal. Has anyone had a problem with their HID?
#27
10-07-2008, 04:03 PM
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 171
Re: HID Conversion complete
I have not had a single issue either. I did take my car to a CHP (California Highway Patrol) inspection station to have the lights checked and aligned. They passed without any adjustments.
#29
12-26-2008, 10:23 AM
Re: HID Conversion complete
Hi David
I just finished my install yesterday. Went with 55W 4300K kit from Retro-solutions (http://www.retro-solutions.com) offering on eBay for $159. It has a lifetime warrranty and uses digital DSP ballasts. It is completely "plug and play" and includes the male connector to plug the OEM lamp connector into. Todd threw in a capacitor pigtail that solves the "auto" setting flickering problems. It ships in a neat, padded aluminum briefcase to protect it from any shipping damage.
Todd (retro-solutions) was super knowledgeable and helpful. He answered any questions that I had and made my install go smoothly. He even threw in the capacitor pigtail mod. for free.
The hardest part of the install was mounting the ballasts. I used the OEM ground wire location (both sides) to bolt the ballasts. I dropped the plastic driver side under carriage protection shield, to get easy access to the ground wire bolt. Just removed a couple of bolts and plastic fasteners.
No need for extra relay or power wire run, cause of the digital ballasts. It worked flawlessly and has a super bright light. The OEM projector lens controlled the glare and aims the light properly.
I've also install 12" blue dual cold cathode tubes in my trunk and under the hood. Trunk wasn't a problem as I got power from the OEM lamp socket. For under the hood, I had to install a pin switch for ground and run the hot wire to the fuse box. I ended up mounting (via tie wraps) the tubes and inverter to the insulation under the hood.
I will be changing out my other lights to LEDs too.
I just finished my install yesterday. Went with 55W 4300K kit from Retro-solutions (http://www.retro-solutions.com) offering on eBay for $159. It has a lifetime warrranty and uses digital DSP ballasts. It is completely "plug and play" and includes the male connector to plug the OEM lamp connector into. Todd threw in a capacitor pigtail that solves the "auto" setting flickering problems. It ships in a neat, padded aluminum briefcase to protect it from any shipping damage.
Todd (retro-solutions) was super knowledgeable and helpful. He answered any questions that I had and made my install go smoothly. He even threw in the capacitor pigtail mod. for free.
The hardest part of the install was mounting the ballasts. I used the OEM ground wire location (both sides) to bolt the ballasts. I dropped the plastic driver side under carriage protection shield, to get easy access to the ground wire bolt. Just removed a couple of bolts and plastic fasteners.
No need for extra relay or power wire run, cause of the digital ballasts. It worked flawlessly and has a super bright light. The OEM projector lens controlled the glare and aims the light properly.
I've also install 12" blue dual cold cathode tubes in my trunk and under the hood. Trunk wasn't a problem as I got power from the OEM lamp socket. For under the hood, I had to install a pin switch for ground and run the hot wire to the fuse box. I ended up mounting (via tie wraps) the tubes and inverter to the insulation under the hood.
I will be changing out my other lights to LEDs too.
#30
12-27-2008, 09:59 AM
Ridiculously Active Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Beautiful Pacific NW
Posts: 1,678
Re: HID Conversion complete
I used a Digital Ballast with a 50W start up draw, and 35W running draw.
Snake oil salesperson at work....
HID lamps work the following way....
An ARC must be started across the gap, think of the way you might see a welder strike an arc to begin a welding procedure. In the HID case there is a DC-to-DC upconverter within the "ballast" to raise the 12 volt battery voltage to upwards of 25,000 volts, whatever it takes to break down the bulb's gas and get current flowing across the gap. Think spark plug "here".
Then the instant, the VERY instant current flow across the gap is detected the upconverter is switched off and the current flow is tightly regulated to about 0.50 amps (approximately 70 volts.
Basically there can be no difference, other than random or climate, between the wattage required to start a 35 watt HID and a 50 HID that operates at 35 watts.
For that matter I really question if a 55 watt HID bulb even exists, the ballast may be labelled as such, being capable of supplying 55 watts, but the lamps might still operate at 35 watts, approximately 70 volts across the gap with 0.50 amps flowing. AS one can see, a "55 watt" ballast would still work perfectly fine with a 35 watt bulb's "standard" gap distance.
This allows for using the stock wiring to power the HIDs. The kit (from Retro Solutions) came with everything needed. The Ballasts are small, and appear to be built well. The only thing that I didn't like was that I thought the "Plug and Play" kit would use an H11 socket to power the Ballasts, instead they use two pins (with rubber boots). You stick the pins into the existing H11 socket. It works just fine, but I would rather have some type of locking system to hold them in. Electrical tape looks tacky.
So far, I'm leaning towards the 5000k. The 6000k are NICE, it's amazing just how much more they light up all the various reflective things on the road. However, I think they may draw too much attention. I don't want to look like I'm 17.
I'll swap them out tomorrow and try again tomorrow night.
Oh, and I've just finished replacing all of the interiour lighting with White LEDs. I can not stand that nasty old looking yellowish brown lighting. I ordered the LEDs from SuperBrightLEDs.com. I'm pretty happy with all of them, except the rear seat lights. They look almost purple with the lenses that Toyota used. I'm going to check out my brother-in-laws Lexus ES350 to see what they use in it.
Snake oil salesperson at work....
HID lamps work the following way....
An ARC must be started across the gap, think of the way you might see a welder strike an arc to begin a welding procedure. In the HID case there is a DC-to-DC upconverter within the "ballast" to raise the 12 volt battery voltage to upwards of 25,000 volts, whatever it takes to break down the bulb's gas and get current flowing across the gap. Think spark plug "here".
Then the instant, the VERY instant current flow across the gap is detected the upconverter is switched off and the current flow is tightly regulated to about 0.50 amps (approximately 70 volts.
Basically there can be no difference, other than random or climate, between the wattage required to start a 35 watt HID and a 50 HID that operates at 35 watts.
For that matter I really question if a 55 watt HID bulb even exists, the ballast may be labelled as such, being capable of supplying 55 watts, but the lamps might still operate at 35 watts, approximately 70 volts across the gap with 0.50 amps flowing. AS one can see, a "55 watt" ballast would still work perfectly fine with a 35 watt bulb's "standard" gap distance.
This allows for using the stock wiring to power the HIDs. The kit (from Retro Solutions) came with everything needed. The Ballasts are small, and appear to be built well. The only thing that I didn't like was that I thought the "Plug and Play" kit would use an H11 socket to power the Ballasts, instead they use two pins (with rubber boots). You stick the pins into the existing H11 socket. It works just fine, but I would rather have some type of locking system to hold them in. Electrical tape looks tacky.
So far, I'm leaning towards the 5000k. The 6000k are NICE, it's amazing just how much more they light up all the various reflective things on the road. However, I think they may draw too much attention. I don't want to look like I'm 17.
I'll swap them out tomorrow and try again tomorrow night.
Oh, and I've just finished replacing all of the interiour lighting with White LEDs. I can not stand that nasty old looking yellowish brown lighting. I ordered the LEDs from SuperBrightLEDs.com. I'm pretty happy with all of them, except the rear seat lights. They look almost purple with the lenses that Toyota used. I'm going to check out my brother-in-laws Lexus ES350 to see what they use in it.
Last edited by wwest; 12-27-2008 at 10:24 AM.
