CREDIT GOES TO SNOOKWHALER!!


Water pump replacement
Here are some pics of the replacement. This is a 2008 TCH with 114,783 miles. I chose jack the front end of the car and put it on jack stands. I jacked the car so that the front wheels were about 3 inches above the driveway. This gets the water pump up higher and is easier on my back. It also gets the car high enough to use a bucket to drain coolant out of the radiator and pump. The car is off, key is in the house, emergency brake is on and rear wheels are chocked. I removed the passengers front wheel for easier access into the engine bay from below.

There are safety procedures and warnings in the FSM that should be followed to prevent injury or death. Some are listed above. One of them is removing the negative battery cable. I chose not to do this because of the hassle associated with doing this on these particular cars and the fact that I do not currently own a scan tool.

Torque values for all the bolts are also mentioned above and or in the FSM.

Tools I used. Needle nose pliers, door panel tool, regular screwdriver, 14mm 12mm and 10mm boxed end wrenches, allen wrench, putty knife, 1/4 drive ratchet with small extension and 10mm socket, 1/2 drive stub ratchet with 12mm and 14mm socket.
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Removing the tension-er cover. 2 10mm bolts. I used the 1/4 drive ratchet and 10mm socket with extension to remove the 2 bolts.
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Removing the wire loom bracket from tension-er. I used the 1/4 drive ratchet and 10mm socket to remove the 1 bolt.
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Removing the belt. I used the 14mm box end wrench. Push forward to release tension and remove belt from engine bay. Note the routing of the belt before removal. Make a diagram or take a picture.
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Removing the upper tension-er bolt. I used the 1/2 drive stub ratchet with 14mm socket on the top bolt.
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Removing the lower tension-er bolt. I used the 1/2 drive stub ratchet with 12mm socket on the lower bolt.
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Removing the Passengers lower engine cover. I used the 1/4 drive ratchet with extension and 10mm socket to remove the 5 bolts. I used the screwdriver and door panel tool to release the 3 plastic panel fasteners.
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Removing the Passengers inner fender engine access panel. I used a 1/4 drive ratchet with extension and 10mm socket. Remove the 2 bolts and leave the panel fastener in place. This allows the panel to swing forward.
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Here the panel is still attached to the forward panel fastener and the panel is swung forward.
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Removing the water pump pulley. I used the allen wrench to "pin" the pulley in place. Insert the allen wrench through the hole in the pulley and wedge it between the 2 ribs on the top of the water pump as shown. This allows you to remove the 4 bolts. I used a 12mm box end wrench to remove the 4 bolts. I removed 2 from above and 2 from below.


Removing the water pump pulley. I used the allen wrench to "pin" the pulley in place. Insert the allen wrench through the hole in the pulley and wedge it between the 2 ribs on the top of the water pump as shown. This allows you to remove the 4 bolts. I used a 12mm box end wrench to remove the 4 bolts. I removed 2 from above and 2 from below.
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Here is what my pulley looked like. This pump was leaking from the weep hole. There was no noticeable play or noise in the bearing. The seal went bad.
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Draining the coolant. There is a petcock on the bottom of the radiator on the drivers side. There is a hole in the Drivers lower engine panel. Feed the hose through the hole and attach it to the spigot on the bottom of the petcock. Feed the hose into a bucket. I used a bucket that is marked in quarts on the inside. This way I know how much coolant comes out and how much I need to get back in. Turn the yellow **** on the petcock counter clockwise until coolant starts to flow out at a rapid rate. Be careful not to unscrew it too far or it will come out. Removing the radiator cap speeds this process. It took about 10 minutes to come to a drip. Close the petcock when you are done. Be careful not to over tighten it. Just "snug" is good enough.

 

Draining the coolant. There is a petcock on the bottom of the radiator on the drivers side. There is a hole in the Drivers lower engine panel. Feed the hose through the hole and attach it to the spigot on the bottom of the petcock. Feed the hose into a bucket. I used a bucket that is marked in quarts on the inside. This way I know how much coolant comes out and how much I need to get back in. Turn the yellow **** on the petcock counter clockwise until coolant starts to flow out at a rapid rate. Be careful not to unscrew it too far or it will come out. Removing the radiator cap speeds this process. It took about 10 minutes to come to a drip. Close the petcock when you are done. Be careful not to over tighten it. Just "snug" is good enough.
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Removing the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) wire loom bracket and water pump bolts. I used the 1/4 drive ratchet and 10mm socket tor remove the 4 bolts and 2 nuts.
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Once you have removed the bracket, bolts and nuts place your bucket under the sub frame rail to catch coolant when you remove the pump. Use a screw driver or small pry bar to break the pump away from the block. There are several tabs on the pump for this purpose. I used the one towards the bottom in the front. Go down below and dry the area around the CPS. Remove the bolt holing the CPS with a 10mm box end wrench. Carefully pull the CPS straight out of the bore and cover the hole with a paper towel. This image shows the CPS removed and the 10mm bolt.
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Now you can pull the pump up and out and remove the plastic clip holding the CPS wire to the bottom of the pump. I used the needle nose pliers to remove the clip. Carefully wipe any oil off the CPS and clean the o-ring. Lay the CPS wire loom up across the shock tower or over on the exhaust manifold. Clean all the sealant off the block with your scraper and some acetone being careful not to scratch the mating surface. Be sure that you have a paper towel over the CPS bore to prevent debris from getting into the engine.
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Compare your old pump to the new one and be sure they are a perfect match. IE: be sure the impeller is facing the same direction, be sure the impeller depth is the same, pulley bolt hole pattern, mating surface, mating surface bolt pattern, etc... If it does not match take back and get one that is a "perfect" match. I opted to use a NAPA TruFlow pump instead of Toyota since Toyota is obviously having problems with their pumps. The pump was $67 from NAPA and is a new pump "NOT" a rebuilt. Old and new side by side.
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Clean the mating surface of the pump with acetone and let dry. Place a bead of Toyota 103 Sealant in the grove on the back of the pump. Be sure to fill the grove completely all the way around.
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Carefully install the new pump onto the studs coming out of the block. When you are ready, gently push the pump onto the block. Bring the CPS wire loom down and carefully feed it down below so you can install the CPS wire loom bracket onto the pump. Install the 2 nuts and 4 bolts. I started in the back and worked my way to the front using an X pattern. Get them all snug and apply torque as listed above or in the FSM.
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Get underneath the car and install the plastic clip that holds the CPS to the pump. Carefully push the CPS back into the bore and tighten the 10mm bolt with the 10mm box end wrench. Just "snug" is tight enough or you will break the plastic tab on the CPS.
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Clean and re-install the pulley. Follow torque values listed above or in the FSM.

 

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Re-install the tension-er assembly. Follow torque values listed above or in the FSM. Re-install the wire loom bracket to the back of the tension-er assembly. Replace the belt if needed. Refer to the diagram or picture you took earlier. Mine was ok. So, I re-used it. Bending the belt will reveal cracks. If your belt is cracked... Replace it. Replace the tension-er cover. Follow torque values listed above or in the FSM.
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Re-install the Passengers lower engine cover and fender well panel. Re-install wheel. Follow torque values listed in the FSM or Owners Manual. Remove the jack stands and lower the car. Remove the expansion tank and dump the old coolant into the bucket. Just lift up and it comes right out. When done re-install. Remember to recycle the coolant at your local parts store.
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Fill radiator with coolant. Toyota SLLC. If you do it slowly you can get back in what you got out (I did). Fill the expansion tank to just below the "F". Don't install the cap yet. Go inside and get your key. Start the car and set the heat to HI. After about 30 seconds the thermostat will begin to open and the coolant level in the radiator will drop. When this happens fill the radiator until it is full again and install the cap. Check for leaks around the pump and radiator petcock. If it looks good go for a quick test drive to bring car to normal operating temp. Check for leaks again and your done.
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It looks like some of the steps are out of order. Maybe it was copied and pasted wrong??

It is a tutorial on water pump replacement. Assuming this will work on all models 2007 to 2011?

Here is that thread:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...ater-pump.html

 

maybe it was. site was acting up, and I had to cut long post into several pieces.

didn't realize, it is permissible to post live links to outside similar forums. most forums ban this.

so, my bad.

 

naahh, it all looks OK. just checked.

 

After removing the inner fender panel, you are missing the water pump pulley removal and pulley pic and info.

Also, missing the pic and info. showing the water pump pulley re-installation, draining the expansion tank and then re-filling the coolant.

You should probably edit them if possible. There are some important steps missing.

 

I can't. site won't let me. I'll try again. It's something about number of characters allowed in a post. Also, it cut all the pics in the 3rd post.
But now that they have link, should be awright. I seeded the seed, he-he.

 

Removing the water pump pulley. I used the allen wrench to "pin" the pulley in place. Insert the allen wrench through the hole in the pulley and wedge it between the 2 ribs on the top of the water pump as shown. This allows you to remove the 4 bolts. I used a 12mm box end wrench to remove the 4 bolts. I removed 2 from above and 2 from below.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.


Here is what my pulley looked like. This pump was leaking from the weep hole. There was no noticeable play or noise in the bearing. The seal went bad.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.


Draining the coolant. There is a petcock on the bottom of the radiator on the drivers side. There is a hole in the Drivers lower engine panel. Feed the hose through the hole and attach it to the spigot on the bottom of the petcock. Feed the hose into a bucket. I used a bucket that is marked in quarts on the inside. This way I know how much coolant comes out and how much I need to get back in. Turn the yellow **** on the petcock counter clockwise until coolant starts to flow out at a rapid rate. Be careful not to unscrew it too far or it will come out. Removing the radiator cap speeds this process. It took about 10 minutes to come to a drip. Close the petcock when you are done. Be careful not to over tighten it. Just "snug" is good enough.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

 

naah, it won't copy/paste pics. sorry. just go for the link to original post.