Well, there is an "alternator", it just comes in the form of a 144 HP internal combustion engine.

But my understanding is that it charges the traction batteries, which in turn charge the 12 volt battery. So I still think a cap would be pointless in this car since you've got a HUGE bank of batteries backing up the 12 volt battery.

 

OK...Learned something today. I spokw with a guy at installer.com who advised me that you can add an outboard amp (and subwoofer) by purchasing a device with the part number

svenr

Manufacturer is www.peripheralelectronics.com

It is a device that you connect to the rear speaker terminals as its input...it has RCA's out from which you feed its low-level signal to your aftermarket amp. This thing costs about $30.

 

I don't think the 144 HP can all feed into the electrical system. There is a electric motor-generator that turns the rotary motion into electricity. I think the generator is rated for something like 40 HP. Then, we have to consider the capacity of the transformer that converts the high voltage from the main battery down to the (nominal) 12 volt supply that the audio system needs.

I am pretty sure that 12V converter would be rated for less than 100 amps. But just for fun, lets assume the entire 40HP can be converted to 12V, at 100% efficiency. Then, 40 HP times 746 watts per HP, makes something like 29,840 watts. I doubt a bass speaker that large would fit in the back seat. But, if it could, that just might be enough to bust some eardrums.

Of course, the stock stereo is more than enough to damage your ears, without any extra bass. If you value your hearing, don't even think about making it any louder.

 

For me, it is not a about volume it is about bass quality...particularly at low volumes. To achieve that you need an ample power (for instance I am going to use an old 80 watt amplifier that I have had for years...just to drive the sub). This is not the boom boom boom that you hear in kids cars (that is high distortion poor quality for the sake of loudness) this is about nice tight quality bass that you can feel.

 

Hello - So I've read through all the posts in this thread, and I have a question. I was driving a 98 Honda Accord and had a nice 10in system installed in it. Nothing huge.. provided nice bass quality, as well as some loudness if I wanted it. Now I'm driving the 09 TCH. I definitely don't want to mess up ANYTHING with the electrical wiring, but since the batt is in the trunk that seems rather convenient. - In this thread I read about a couple of you that were going to Install a small sub, just to round out the low-end freqs.. to make the overall sound better. This is basically what I am looking for. So, any install pics? How did it all turn out? Did you run a gain control **** up to your front seat? What brands did you go with? Thanks for the infos!!

 

I never got around to it...it is still on my project list. It's priority has slipped in the grand scheme of things.

 

well this is a fun thread. its old but fun. I have an O9 TCH and I have a complete "HIGH END" system. I have a Kenwood 8120 head unit Zapco compitition sepertates and comptition 10" subs in a ported custom made enclosure as well as a Zapco DC 650 powering the highs and mids. A DC 750 powering the subs. I have HID lights, but when I was stock the lights did not dim when the bass hit. I am running lots of power and the only negative I have is I lost about 2 MPG. The loss could be from the fact that I am not driving like someone who is trying to **** off the rest of the traffic here. (I dont drive like the people boasting 40 + MPG) Any ways If your going to only add a external sub without changing the rest of the system. Leave it alone (IMOP) You will only make it sound worse. Like a K-Mart jenson system. good luck

The Riddler

 

PS what I am saying is... If your system is installed right and you have good stuff. You should not see a major draw in current. Your car is high powered its fricken 1/2 electric.

 

Back on here again - I just purchased a Kicker 800watt max, 400watt rms sub and and amp with the same specs to go with it. Not looking to blow out my trunk like some ppl you can see on the road, but looking to round out some low freqs.

Here's my thinking. I can hook it up the the 12v battery in the trunk, then feed from the rear speakers for the low freqs using a converter (similar to the one mentioned earlier in this thread). From there I can run a gain **** for the bass to the front .. so if I turn the stock bass down to level 0 or -1, and turned up the gain on the sub, maybe it could even it out? .. If not, then it will have to wait for another car, or some home theater testing as well. Any thoughts?

 

Man, I have been searching and searching and I finally read what I have been looking for - Thanks Riddler! I have some high end stuff that I want to put into my new TCH 2010 model that I just actually purchased earlier today to pick up Monday! I am familiar with the vehicle sort of. I bought a 2010 Camry SE 9 months ago. I got an offer I just could not pass up on this TCH however and it is what I wanted all along anyway. It helps when you talk to the right guys at the right time . I am going with Audison/Hertz for much everything. I got the loaded version tho so I will be keeping the HU - full navi unit - and using my Bit One.1 as the interface to get my system going. I can't wait. I was so worried about not being able to do this because of the different type of electrical system. After reading about your install I am not worried in the least as I will be running similar wattage I think, probably ~2000 watts rms or so all said and done. I would love to see how you got 2 10 inchers in your trunk however. Man, it sure is alot smaller than the standard Camry and I will probably have to do something custom now. I only want to do one sub so as to hopefully still have some trunk left - a top end 10 or maybe a 12. I will probably PM you and hopefully you have pics you wouldn't mind sharing...