All that crap is gimmicks and marketing. The only thing you can say with any confidence is that synthetic is better than non-synthetic.

Buy ANY brand of multiweight oil specified by the manufacturer. Change it every 7500 miles or less or in accordance with the manufacturers recommendations.

I use 0W-20 Mobil 1 synthetic. I change it about every 10-12K miles adding 3-4 quarts over that period.. The Priuses in question are an 08 with 175K miles and the other is an 07 with 215K miles.

 

Thanks!
I avoid the marketing nonsense
I'm a guy that has probably purchased off brand name gas almost exclusively over the last 40 years

 

Same, EXCEPT I try to stick with "top tier" gas, which excludes a lot of the cheapest convenience stores, but includes QT and others.

 

Two other 'old age' questions...
(2008 110,000 miles)
With a normal engine, you can tell when the battery is on its last legs as it strains to start the engine. Does the hybrid give any indication the battery is near the end of its useful life?
Do the spark plugs need replacement at 120,000...or should I just wait for a yellow engine light indicating that some aren't firing properly?

Thanks!

 

1) No. "Straining" isn't indicative of a failing battery any more than it indicates a neglected ICE. Plugs, dirty throttle body, dirty MAF can all cause rough starts, particularly when cold. Aktinson cycle engines tend to accumulate a lot of carbon in the intake (TB, MAF sensor), and it's a good idea to clean them periodically. Gen2 Prius seems to do pretty well every 60K miles or so. Not sure about the Camry, but I suspect it's no different.

2) At 120K (or now) replace with Denso or NGK "OE" style plugs, i.e., the same ones that Toyota uses, but under Denso/NGK P/N. Probably about $8 each.

Lastly, if you're an Android user, download Hybrid Assistant on a phone or tablet. You can run a battery diagnostic test that gives some indication of health.

 

Thanks, but not sure if I got the answers I wanted...
What indicator, if any, is there that the 12V battery is dying...or does it just die?
I use iPhone, but have an Automatic (plugs into the port and can read yellow lights, etc.)

 

The 12V does not start the engine. The 12V powers the computers and provides all 12V power to the car PRIOR to the HV battery being connected. Once the HV battery is connected, the HV battery spins MG1, which is connected to the ICE and starts the ICE.

If you are experiencing a "strain" associated with the ICE starting, it has nothing to do with the 12V, but is as I described above.

Signs of failing 12V are the typical ones: needs to be jumped, weird electrical behavior, OBDII codes that cover multiple systems.

Hit it with a 100A load tester after an overnight sit, and you'll know.

 

Thanks!
Not experiencing any issues at all, was just wondering what I need to be aware of as the car is now 11 years old.

 

If it's still the original 12V battery, it could go at any time.