With the hood open facing the car the EGR valve will be on the left at the front of the engine. It has two bolts and one connector.

Make sure you spray down the bolts with penetrating oil the night before and using a short socket and long extension makes getting to the back bolt easier.

You probably will want to order a gasket ahead of time (Item 13 at the link):

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...NTAKE+MANIFOLD

Best of luck....

 

Thanks! Ill post the results

 

Do a search, but I think it is on the front left of the ICE if I remember correctly. Looks like a old distributor, but smaller. Easy to remove. H

 

I saw over on the Insight Forum that a 1449 actually has 4 subcodes (see Reading Blinking Lights Post on that forum). I am currently getting a 1449 (78) which is the fourth subcode listed there and is Battery Module Deter.

This set of postings is starting to convince me to ignore the codes and just drive the car (03 HCH with 99800 miles) rather than spring for the new battery or try to convince Honda to replace it (same battery as the Insight of the same year but Insight has a 10 yr/157.5K warranty, all states whereas Civic seems to be 8 yr/80K for ULEV).

Perhaps it depends on how the battery holds up and whether it ever fails in a really bad way like a shorted cell.

Son recently drove car and got about 59-60 mpg over 3/4 tank. He was really into hypermiling and even kept the AC off in 95+ deg weather and rush hour commuting.

 

Mrkcohen: I am interested in a description of your charging/assist/charge level behavior. I am new to driving a hybrid of any kind and am not sure I would recognize abnormal behavior. On occasion the car will go from showing full charge to no charge at idle and then go into a 4 bar charge and finally comes back to a full charge showing on the gauge. Charging generally occurs upon decelerating and even more as the brake is applied. Codes (IMA and CEL lights) are generally thrown when going up a hillI under assist or maybe after 125 miles of driving. I am not getting any cat codes (yet, ...knock on wood), but am getting the P1600 and P1449 (this is after the car sat for several months for previous owner and I had to replace the 100 amp fuse (P1575 code)on the battery to restore charging/assist). I have heard there is also a P1433 that can come up on the Civic also relating to the 144V battery condition.

If we can drive the car for 100K miles (to 200K) and get 50-60 mpg without laying out 2 grand for a new battery,...well you see where I am going.

 

In a nutshell, if I allow the SOC as shown on the battery gauge to drop below about 3/4 full I know I can expect a forced recal. Usually what will happen is I will see a constant 4 bars of charge and my SOC will drop rapidly, sometimes to near zero, sometimes to about 1/4 and then will either come back to full quickly (when I'm driving at speed on the open road) or more slowly (when I am in an urban driving environment). While this is happening I will usually lose my IMA assist.

In addition the auto-stop doesn't kick in nearly as often as when the car was new. I find if it doesn't stop when expected if I manually turn the car off it will then auto-stop again for a little while by itself.

I also infrequently get an unexpected kick in of the 12V/starter when starting the car. This happens more in cold weather of course, but sometimes even on a nice day with an almost full SOC it happens. When it does I can also expect a forced recal shortly.

In short it seems the IMA system "loses it's cookies" a lot, but as I've stated, I can easily make up for the loss of assist by simply downshifting as needed.

That's exactly what I plan to do. I will continue to drive the car until the IMA system stops charging the 12V battery. You can tell this is happening because the red 12V battery icon will illuminate during operation. Just as in any other car without the 12V battery the car is dead in the water. ( If this happens check the 12V first of course and don't just assume the IMA DC-DC converter quit)

Best of luck with it. Just baby her as much as possible. Remember the fuel savings comes from the little 1.3 litre hamster wheel under the hood and driving style. The IMA assist is just for a little more power. If you keep your foot out of it the car will last a lot longer...

 

Congrads mrkcohen!

Do you have the calculated MPG value?

 

I agree completely. My CVT belt had slipped occasionally, but was fixed temporarily by an occasional fluid change. At around 130,000 miles the fluid changes no longer were effective to prevent the occasional slippage so I had Honda look at it. They said it needed a new belt/valve assembly which cost more than your battery figure.

I didn't have the work done and now the car is fast approaching 200k miles. That's money in my pocket.


Tell your son he can get heat stroke that way in a hot car. I've found that a Coleman 6pack size cooler half filled with ice cubes and water to soak a dabbing cloth is the best way to stay cool while hypermiling. Drink lots of fluid. See my signature, I am experienced in this.

 

It took 13 gallons to refill so I guess that makes it 57.7 MPG calculated.

You really got 1003 miles on a single tank? How did you do that; was it all downhill at 25 MPH?

 

Mrkcohen: your description of the behavior sounds very much like what I have seen so far. Thanks. I am interested in your statement "if I allow the SOC as shown on the battery gauge to drop below about 3/4 full" which makes it sound like you can control the SOC and keep it above 3/4 full. If so, do you do that thru your driving style or so other way?

When I had the blown 100 amp fuse and the charging/assist/etc was not working, the 12V battery light would come on below about 1400-1600 rpms. With a few seconds (less than a minute) of revving the engine above that rpm would cause the light to go out. Exceeding 4500 rpms would cause the 12V light to come back on. One solution to the lower rpm is to adjust the throttle linkage line to hold idle above 1600 rpms (works for a manual shift, but would be really hard on an automatic trans and the brakes unless you were willing to go to neutral each time you stopped). I kind of looked for a different adjustment for the idle (like a stop screw), but if it is there it is buried down near the IMA motor. This need all went away when I fixed the 100 amp fuze, but the final failed 144V battery state may cause me to reinvestigate (to keep the 12V charged). Hopefully unless the DC-DC converter craps out the 12V will still get charged at the higher rpm unless there is some kind of dead short in the 144V battery.

What we need is a 144V battery fooler that lets us run just the 1.3L and keeps the codes from being slung from the monitoring systems. I could be very happy with an 81 hp 5 spd manual that gets 60 mpg. If everyone drove something like that we would all be compatible on the on ramps.