100%, but I was under the impression that you don't have the time.

If you can't get to 100%, then it really doesn't matter.

 

I get that, but my question is am I aiming for 100% as far as the car expects (168v) or just charge as long as possible and then install?

though it's probably a moot question because if I stopped now it would be under 168 by install completion time...


EDIT: oh you mean the other direction - if it can't be a meaningful grid charge I might as well save on my electricity bill

 

I see both bumblebees and hybrid revolt selling honda OEM sticks on eBay, but packs with refurbished sticks are out of stock on both websites, normally I would assume this is somebody dumping junk but those two sellers are pretty respected in the community.

if all I need to do is find and replace a single bad stick, I only have two more slightly underperforming sticks to worry about (right now)

don't have time to do anything so crazy yet but trying to plot for future.... I know you said in your sig the hch1 and g1 are the only ones worth trying that on and even then it's pretty iffy...

 

Again, it doesn't matter. I always speak in terms of absolute SoC. When I say 100%, I mean 100%. Even the car tracks it this way, it just doesn't look like it on the gauge. If you can't get to 100%, anything over 20% is basically the same.

I can't speak to HR, but Bumblebee simply breaks down a pack, harvests the PTC strips, puts the sticks in a box and ships it to you. I've bought one. The bulk of the sticks were in pretty decent shape. However, it is a complete and total crapshoot. They are completely untested.

BB's waiting list is about 8 weeks. I'm pretty familiar with what they do, and I can say with 100% confidence no one does it better. They get down to the cell level. If you're looking for a reconditioned pack, BB is the way to go.

 

if I hadn't already dropped far too much just aquiring the car itself I would have been game for it but this car is no way no how worth $7,000 (4k car plus 3k for BB)

drove 15 miles today, ima light still off, I didn't take it too easy but I made sure not to punch it either.

There are several 40mph+ to STOP portions of my to work commute which do well to keep the SoC in the top 3 or 4 bars so long as I'm driving the car as if I'm trying to, ya know, save gas. I probably only use the brake pads for the last 15mph to 0 maybe even less., Sometimes the car decides it doesn't want any more and stops regen (Not sure if it's heat related or just that it thinks the batt is full enough... but I still don't think I've heard the batt pack fan, unless it sounds more like a whine than a fan.)

it's really only when I'm in school... (probably 1 mile of a pretty good incline after a stop sign...and then still a small upward angle that requires a little IMA to maintain speed.] That i expect to have issues again... i never needed the car to force charge until i had that commute....but thats in the fall so hopefully it's good until then.

that said,
Let's see how we fair with 12 hours of not driving.

thank you again for all your help, I'll probably try some stick replacement at some point (since it currently appears to only be 1 or 2 really bad ones) but I might just grab a junk yard battery to play with and take apart, so if I break something I know what NOT to do on the mostly good pack.

Did you have anything I should add or edit from the video before I take it off unlisted?
I tried to refer people here. I have some more footage I might post as part 2... will have to see

 

My gut says you should be good for a period of time comparable to the trouble free operation you received after they repaired the battery - perhaps longer. The one tap is of concern, but time will tell.

The SoC gauge is an estimate. If one of the taps gets higher than the others, it will throttle regen even if it seems the car still has capacity.

The fan is pretty hard to hear. You might occasionally notice it w/o A/C or the radio playing as you come to a stop or turn off the car. Even though it can move a massive amount of air, it is generally run at lower speeds where it's barely audible.

Video is fine. Can't think of anything to add.

 

http://99mpg.com/Data/Resources/down...erconnects.jpg

So in here, which 2 am I looking at likely being the issue?
I think it was pin 7 to 2

 

Note the labels on the pins. VHB6 and VHB7. It will be one of the sticks between those two labels - where the sticks are sketched in green.


Not surprising... that's pretty much the warmest spot in the pack.

 

Thats where I was missing it, i know it had to be one of the four in the middle but was not sure if I was looking at the green or the blue.

 

The blue lines are just interconnects between the two stick ends within the end plate.