I recently took my 160k manual HCH I into Mile Hybrids here in Denver. I informed them that I am a novice DIYer and asked them to instruct me what to do. Here is my issue.
Symptoms:
1) Bouncing idle - at rest, rather than engaging auto stop, the idle begins fluctuating between 500-1500 rpms.
2) OR it will stall or sometimes idle normally; but again without engaging auto stop.
3) Frequent engine stuttering above 2700 rpms.
CEL codes:
1) P0335 crank position sensor 1 circuit malfunction
2) P0505 Idle air control system
3) P0420 Catalyst system efficiency below threshold
4) P1601 IMA system malfunction
5) P1567 Cylinder position circuit problem

I was instructed to clean the throttle body/intake manifold and/or idle air control valve (IAC) and clean the crank sensor. I don't know where these items are or how to get access to them. I have a service manual at home, but am currently traveling. I would like to do this work myself, but I need some help getting to the right spots under the hood. Any help would be greatly appreciated, especially pictures of the locations of the IAC, throttle body/intake, and crank sensor. Thank you all in advance.

 

Wow. You have your work cut out for you.

The service manual is the best place to start.

Homey is the man here when it comes to wrench turning as he's rebuilt a CVT.

Good luck,

Steve

 

Unfortunately I cannot order a service manual in time for my departure in 8 days. I have to drive 1800 miles from Denver to Baltimore at this point.
I would really like to avoid taking the car to the mechanic, so if anyone has any advice or information, please help.

 

If it were me I would replace the spark plugs, all 8. Clean the egr manifold while your there. I get my plugs from advance auto parts, after I find a coupon for online purchase and then walk in and pick them up. Usually saves me 25-30 percent. clear all the codes cause they are probably bogus anyway. My first gen 1 was jumping around and the spark plugs stopped everything. My guess is the lean burn stuff makes it really wiggy when the plugs get old. (they are 100k plugs) I believe that this is the problem that cause my cvt to break its belt all that bouncing round.


this video has some good pictures of how you clean the egr valve and it shows the egr plate removed. The guy rambles like a magpie so you may just mute him and watch the screen but you can see how to get to the plugs and the egr parts.

 

Denso SK16PR-L11 Iridium Long Life Spark Plug 40 dollar off 100 dollars (code TRT41) makes 8 plugs 63.92 which is a good deal. Buy online walk up and pick them up. Sweet

 

Update.
I replaced the spark plugs and cleaned the intake.
I snapped off one of the bolts to the EGR valve housing which is going to be a pain to fix. Plus now it's only held on by one bolt until I can fix it.
A knocking sound is coming from under the hood when I accelerate, and I'm really really hoping that somehow it's related to the EGR only having one bolt, but I'm skeptical. I did clean what little debris was inside the EGR as well. I'll give another update when I fix the bolt issue.
None of the previous symptoms have been resolved. I reset the CEL and it came back on immediately after I started the car.

 

Whats the code? I wouldn't think one bolt would cause a sound. is it still bouncing around? and check your pm

 

Yea still bouncing around at every 3-4th idle. I'll check the code and respond tomorrow.

 

Update: FIXED!!

Fixed the bolt in the EGR valve and the spark knock stopped immediately. Hard to believe the EGR only being secured by one bolt instead of two can make that much of a difference!

About a week ago I checked the crank sensor wire harness and sure enough the casing was split open and the power (red) wire was sliced. Spliced the wire and problem solved!
All of those codes except the IMA ones were bogus, and caused by the damaged crank sensor wire.