2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

We just hit 100,000 miles on the 2005. I am being perfectly honest when I say that it is the best car I have ever owned. It is about to hit 10 years old and the extended warranty I bought will expire as will the "green state" 10/150 warranty on the hybrid components. I am not sure what I will do once it expires but since the trade-in value is pretty low, I may run it until something major craps out on it.

So, in almost 10 years of ownership, here are some details:

• I filled the tank at exactly 100k miles. Over that time I used 2933.54 gallons of gas for a lifetime average of 34.082 miles per gallon. That is every drop of gas and every mile, not select good tanks. And a good amount of that driving (maybe 30%) was my wife doing short, local trips that killed the average.
• Comparing this car to what I got for mileage in my 2004 V6 Escape, I saved an estimated $8,440 on gas.
• The car had only a couple major repairs. The front end had the swing arms replaced ($100 deductible), the AC condensor ($100) and just the other day had the rear AC actuator replaced ($100). Everything else has been regular maintenance. I've never even changed a lightbulb in this this thing.
• I did the brakes at about $70k. Did them myself for a couple hundred bucks in parts.
• The car still looks and drives like new.
• The best mileage tank was 40.028 miles over 536 miles. The car had about 78k miles on it at the time.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

Hi Ray,

That's an impressive track record, hope I can do as well at 100k.

At 65k my lifetime mileage is 30.1mpg, but I'm AWD which deducts 10% I've read.
I did spend $170 on the MECS pump but that should be reimbursed under the recall.
Original tires, but $120 on an Optima sealed 12v battery.
No other expenses except routine maintenance.
Almost forgot, I had a taillight bulb burn out that the systems check did not detect.
Brakes are only down 10% according to the tire store.

Until the first major problem it's all free miles for awhile, I hope.
I figure I save $500/yr over driving my S-10 4wd Blazer.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

Excellent info, thanks

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

At 73K, I've has both front ABS tone rings crack, four stabilizer bar link sets fail, the exhaust flex coupling failed, replaced both front wheel bearings, the servo that directs the battery cooling air failed and I have a front end clunk that neither I nor my mechanic can identify. Also replaced one set of brakes, one 12 volt battery and one set of tires. And the rear wheel well has rusted through.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report (210K for me)
 

210, 000 K total this morning, bought with 34k with salvage title after minor rear end collision that.

Total replaced:

• Rear brakes at 122k
• Reflash of PCM + dab of special grease (to correct the dreaded hydraulic brake issue at 145k.
• 1 tone ring (while carrying an overload of landscape blocks)
• MECS pump at 180k
• Wheel bearings at 205k
• A/C Compressor at 208k
• Thermostat housing at 209k (plus 2 more MECS pumps due to misinterpretation of MECS failure from Thermostat sensor failure

Routine wear items at appropriate time- 3 sets tires, two sets plugs, 2 coil packs, air-fuel-battery-oil filters, two windshields, 2 fog lamps (courtesy gravel on Missouri roads,1 12 v battery, 1 serpentine belt. 2 sets floormats, 1 radio (plays audiotapes continuously when driving.) while this looks like a pretty long list, 210k is a lot of miles- and the car still looks and acts like a low-mileage pampered vehicle.

1 Ford complete workshop manual.

Forget about the FEH part- this is a excellent vehicle with minimal maintenance. 210k and drives like new, no signs of engine wear. Good acceleration, easy to get in and out of, OK air conditioning, good urban driver, tows small boat trailer w/o issues, for medium distances. Seats, interior items, rubber, etc. all act as they should and aren't worn or frayed.

I am sure it will die one day, but it looks and acts like it has a lot of life left. No real value for resale, but no sign of permanent failure at present. Dealer still hates it.

Gary

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report (210K for me)
 

Hey Gary, what brake issue are you referring to? I'm closing in on 145k myself...

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

Forgot - all four tie rod ends also failed.

The hybrid stuff has been great, though, knock on wood. Based on the Escape's superior reliability record, bought a Honda CRV for the wife.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

Re: front end clunk. Early on, say about 75k, I had that when going over bumps on dirt roads. Couldn't find it but replaced Sway bar links and that fixed it even though I could find no slop in the joints.

Could you describe it more? I've got a repetitive clunking that I can't find either.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

I had that too and replacing the sway bars fixed it, although the first set of Moogs I put on were absolute garbage and crapped out all the grease as soon as I torqued the nuts. I took them back and got a newer, much stronger replacement that had apparently been slipped in unbeknownst to the parts store. Same part number and everything...

The clunk came back after I changed my front struts out. That wound up being the upper mounting nut losing torque on the stud. I had to go get a Craftsman "dogbone" tool to allow me to hold the strut stud with an allen wrench while torquing that nut down. I have about 7 threads showing now-- with the standard 3 showing it was not torqued enough and was still clunking on bumps.

FWIW

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

I know all about the sway bar links - I'm on set #5, the last three being Moogs. You cannot feel the slop unless the vehicle weight is on the tire - i.e. it goes away when the tire hangs.

My clunk sounds exactly like bad sway bar links and occurs on every bump, but especially at speeds under 40 mph or so.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

When you say the upper mounting nut, do you mean the big one in the center of the strut or the smaller ones that hold the strut mount in place?

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

The big one. Unless you have a crows foot or an open end torque wrench, it is practically impossible to accurately torque that thing, as you have to hold the strut stud to keep it from spinning with the nut (very common with stupid McPherson struts).

I cranked that nut down with a ratchet and actually put the correct torque on it (believe it or not!), but apparently the stud was spinning enough to deceive my torque wrench :) .

Once I got that dogbone on it that allowed me to crank the nut down some more while holding the stud still with an allen wrench, I got another 3 threads showing and the clunk went away altogether.

It's just a stupid aggravating design that I wish they'd do away with on all vehicles. It is so nice changing normal struts with normal side-mounted lobes where you don't risk trashing your brand new strut trying to torque it.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

I replaced the struts awhile ago. Since they were drop in units it never occurred to me that I should torque the large nut on top. I'll check it out.

Curiously the issue I'm dealing with only occurs with weight on the wheels (eg putting the car up on jack stands and putting it in gear shows no odd noises or clunks). Your comment in an earlier post here about only occurring with weight on the wheels may be the tipoff I've been looking for.

What is the torque spec for that big nut on top?

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

76 lbf, per Chiltons

and 46 lbf per AllDataDIY, so ymmv. I smoked mine down to about 80lbf.

This is the tool I used. It's a metric nut, if I recall correctly, but the equivalent SAE socket will *just* hold it enough to torque, as the metric version of this does not get big enough (I might have that backwards though). You'll want to check the nut size with a socket before buying it to make sure I didn't get that backwards (I can't remember if I bought the metric or SAE version).

Again, you can torque it without holding that ball stud with an allen wrench, but the torque is deceiving and leaves enough slop to make a noticeable clunking noise going over bumps. If you hold that ball stud, you'll be amazed how much more torque you can actually put on it before hitting 70-80 lbf.

**EDIT**

These are the FRONT struts I am referring to, of course. You mentioned "dropping in" your struts, which you don't really do with McPherson, but is the case with the rears, so I want to clarify that it is just the front struts I am talking about.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

Roger the drop-in comment... I use that since it comes as an assembled unit. I suppose the more accurate words would have been "lift in!"

Appreciate the torque value. Enabled me to find it in my shop manual. See pg 204-01-10, Front Suspension. Strut & Spring Assembly Step 3 reflects 76 lb-ft.

Since it came assembled I never thought to check the as assembled torque value of the rod-to-bushing nut.

One thing that has baffled me with this clunking is with the car up on jack stands the weight remains on the suspension struts (& therefore the sway bar links). If you have an idea why being on wheels makes a difference in the weight the strut & sway bar links feel I'd appreciate your thoughts.

That said, I roger up for the fact that the noise goes away when on jack stands versus on wheels... just figures!:rolleyes:

I've seen my share of oddities like that across my time working on things mechanical over the years.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

So you bought the pre-assembled unit-- got it. I forgot they sold that, as I had just bought the individual strut.

As for your question, I would look at anything that lifts up while the vehicle is on the ground. In the case of that strut-to-bushing bolt, it appeared tight (especially with the vehicle jacked as the springs extend that strut as far as it will allow, thus pulling it tight against the bushing), but when placed on the wheels, the spring contracted. Thus, going over a bump allowed for the strut to travel upwards just a fraction of an amount, but enough to make a very noticeable clunk when the springs extended again coming off of the bump.

So whether yours is that particular nut or not, I would look at anything else on your vehicle that could also move under compression (ie weight-on-wheels, traversing bumps or lateral shifts), rather than just looking at pure tension (ie jacked up in the air with gravity extending everything).

A few things that come to mind apart from suspension are:

- engine mounts
- exhaust mounts
- steering column
- steering knuckle
- half shaft components
- tie-rods

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

nicknc: when I place the car up on jackstands I put them under the wheel knuckle arm such that the weight of the car is on the suspension. The only things not feeling the weight are the wheel bearings and calipers.

Thus this one has baffled me. Will checkout the sway bar links. Any other ideas?

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

I'd still look at the items I mentioned and just rule them out one by one. There is a lot that can clunk when not properly torqued-- I'd start with the most common culprits, especially those easily checked.

Suspension and wheel/axle components are designed to move a lot during the course of driving making them more susceptible to premature failure.

I troubleshot the hell out of a steering wheel vibration recently that wound up being a warped wheel, of all things-- something I did not consider, but given the symptoms, should have been a logical cause.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

Roger that... I'm working down the list. Just hoping to avoid "throwing parts" at it.

My Sway bar links are due for replacement so that's next on the list.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

Well... It's in the strut (drvrs side).

I split for a Steelman remote sound sensor system. Got it from Tooltopia.

Put sensors on the brake caliper, transaxle, lower arm, and at the strut midpoint where the sway bar link attaches. No noise from the caliper, a nice rotational hum-m-m from the transaxle.

The lower arm showed some of the cyclic knocking. The strut midpoint sensor very clearly had the knocking.

Will put the sensors more specifically on the strut to see if I can pin in on where the noise is coming from.

Anybody out there got any experience here? The knocking I have is same as the wheel rotation, disappears on coast & hard acceleration and with steering input in either direction.

What I don't get is the synchronism with wheel rotation. I see no indication of the wheel contacting anything and I've swapped wheels side to side with no change.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

I'm watching this, as my mechanic says my clunk may be internal to the strut, as everything else checks out OK.

A word of caution on those remote sensors. I used these as a diagnostic tool as a development engineer and found that the cheap accelerometers have different sensitivities. We confirmed this by clipping all four to the same spot and listening to them one at a time. Sure enough some were loud and some were not.

The once per wheel rev knocking is baffling. Torque and steering input would point to a half shaft or differential bearing maybe???

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

It's going to take me a few days yet for the next iteration... Turkey Day and all that you know.

Your point about the repeatability of sensors is well taken. I spent a career in nuclear engineering and understand the issues of properly calibrated stuff... Still in all, this is what's reasonably available and within my budget.

What I do is use these to isolate noises and then listen for the pattern of the noise, placing less emphasis on the loudness of what I hear. A long time ago, in a place far, far away... I had some u-joints that kicked my behind trying to figure out "what that funny noise was." Turned out the failing u-joints noise was being transmitted down the propeller shaft and so the noise was appearing elsewhere! Took me weeks to figure it out.

In this case the critical initial questions were: is it in the transaxle or engine. Clearly not after I put this ChassisEar on. Very useful data points, as I was seriously concerned about the transaxle.

So now where is it coming from and why is it in sync with wheel rotation? The issue of the CV halfshaft is appropriate to consider, yet if it were the plunge joint (next to transaxle) the cyclic rate would be 3X and if it were the flex joint (at the knuckle) it would be a 6X cyclic rate. Since it is 1X, I infer it is some kind of slightly out of balance thing with the wheel energizing the lower arm arm once per revolution through a failing resilient mount.

My take for the moment is that the lower arm is my next step (~$50-60). There are two resilient mounts on this and if they are giving up the ghost, metal to metal contact would happen and would be cyclic. If I were a betting man it will be the rear of the two mounts that is failed (eg a vertical arrangement) rather that the front of the two mounts (a horizontal arrangement).

If that doesn't work then the strut itself is suspect. Since the noise is louder below the spring itself loose mounting bolts at the top, which I've looked at, seem not the problem, thus a strut with some kind of failure appears the next step.

Onward...!

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

2005 FEH at 121,000 miles. First 95,000 miles only had wire for engine block heater go out and two cracked tone rings. Yes I did have the brake rotors replaced. Then a speed sensor failure with another crack tone ring caused AWD and drivability issues. 115,000 miles a coupler for the AWD system and multiple items on the front end suspension needed replacement. Rust noted on rear passenger side wheel well despite it going to Ziebart. Had the MECS pump replaced at 120,000 miles not because it failed but because I didn't want to chance it.

Max mileage (mpg) tank was 43.5---tailwind for 200 miles helped!

Waiting for the new Ford PHEV in 2018 which will hopefully have an AWD version.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

Installed the lower arm, surprisingly straightforward, although not easy. No change in knocking sound. It did seem to take longer to begin but when it did it was the same.

Today started looking at the sway bar/stabilizer bar. Took off the bracket holding the bushing in place. Found the bushing in reasonable condition.

However, I found it installed backwards. The split is supposed to be facing the rear. As found the split was facing forward.

Frankly it's difficult to see how this alone could be the cause. Still, I finally found something that was not correct.

Have to think on this to see what makes sense. Will reinstall properly and see what happens with the knocking.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

Thanks for the update. I'm learning to live wiith my knock, now that I know it is not a safety issue. And wow, does my wife like her new CRV.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

Went in and looked at the pax side bushing. It also was installed backwards. Specifically, the shop manual calls for the bushing to be installed with the split facing to the rear. It also had the split facing forward.

Not at all clear that this could produce the knocking sound I'm hearing. On the drivers side there was some amount of small gravel in the cupped area beneath where the bushing bracket bolts up. But at least I found something wrong.

This gravel could in effect cause the sway bar to contact the frame. Still the cyclic nature of the knocking causes the inference of something else as the cause.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

Just reinstalled the pax side sway bar bushing. No big deal. Note: it is worth chasing down the threads as they are in a place where dirt and water gets on them easily.

While reinstalling the bushing rear bolt (you have to get underneath and look forward) looked over the sway bar itself to see if it was correctly seated. Noticed that where it goes downward and forward toward the drivers side wheel (and over the underframe) that it was less than a little fingers width away from the underframe. On the Pax side for the same place the clearance was well more than a full fingers width from the underframe.

Since it is only held in place by the bushings and the two end point links to the struts, it can be moved somewhat side to side. So I moved it to equalize the clearance to the underframe in each place.

Road test to follow. As I see things if this were the cause it would be positioned to contact the frame and cause noise at the strut & link attach point and right underneath the driver.

Hm-m-m, if this turns out to be the issue...

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

Well... the sway bar thing wasn't it.

Did some work on the drivers side wheel & brake caliper to ensure there was no interference. Took out on a test drive with ChassisEar sensors installed.

The noise was most pronounced on the strut midpoint at the sway bar link attach point. It was also present on one of the bolts that mates the strut to the steering knuckle. It was fainter on this second sensor.

So... everything comes back to the strut itself. What baffles me is that it is cyclic. It's as if the welded joint where the strut tubes mates to the cast iron unit that attaches to the steering knuckle is wobbling from a weak & failing weld.

There was zero noise on the brake caliper and the lower arm. On to replacing the strut.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

Installed the new strut (drivers side front). Fixed about 80% of the problem.

With the chassisear the notable knocking was on the sway bar link attach point midway on the strut. It is now gone there.

Knocking now only occurs when doing a gentle left turn. The knocking only shows up on the tie rod. It is present but not loud.

Will have to reflect on this.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

Did a long trip (~80 miles). Knocking virtually gone. There is one angle of left turn where the knocking pops up.

Curiously, the knocking shows up on the steering gear. Set up with one sensor attached to one of the steering gear bolts. Go figure. The ChassisEar system has been useful here. But what in the world on or associated with the steering gear could cause cyclic knocking?

My take now is that I fixed one problem with the new strut pack and uncovered another one.

PS Sent off an email to RockAuto regarding the Monroe Lifetime warranty on this strut pack. Will let you know how it works out.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

Did another run with different test points, but the results weren't as expected. Had thought that the steering gear casing would show some knocking. It didn't.

Based on the previous run where I had a sensor on the steering gear casing mounting bolt and heard some knocking coupled with there not being a resilient bushing there that there would be some knocking on either of the two mounting brackets on the subframe. No knocking.

So will do another run with different sensor points.

The knocking was clear on the strut at its midpoint and that has fixed the major knocking issue.

It appears that Rock Auto will make good on the return of the strut I removed. It had about 35k miles on it. Will let you know how it works out.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

An extended run (80 miles+) last night.

There were two problems kicking my behind across this drill.

First was the failed MacPherson Strut on the drivers side. Because I didn't believe that it could fail I easter-egged with other things: wheel bearing, Lower engine/transaxle mount, sway bar link, lower arm, sway bar bushings.

Each item individually was less expensive than a replacement strut, yet clearly I'd have gotten off cheaper if I had (1) bought the ChassisEar sooner and (2) listened to what it was telling me shortly after I got it.

In the end the ChassisEar system told me the truth in the middle of my trouble shooting and I didn't believe it for awhile. The noise on the strut midpoint mounting for the sway bar link was the give-away. That was always noisy and everything else was not as loud. Once I replaced the strut this noise disappeared. It just vanished.

Still I had a knocking, albeit somewhat different and only in a small left turn, but there. I suspect the new strut changed the geometry somewhat and allowed another problem to surface producing a somewhat similar sound on the pax side.

I've had a longstanding issue of front caliper interference with the OEM wheels since I first replaced brake pads and later installed rebuilt calipers. I had ground down the calipers a bit to clear this but it somehow didn't go away.

So in this drill I spent a considerable amount of time on this with a Dremel Moto-tool to eliminate any interference from the caliper. That paid off as last night there was no audible noise on my trip of 80+ miles. There was some noise to be heard on the ChassisEar, so I suppose some more time with the Moto-Tool is in order...

But in the end what fixed things was the strut replacement then getting down to business on the caliper interference thing.

Having to work through two similar symptoms could not have been done without the ChassisEar. That was a good investment.

Note that I did look into the Ford Tech Note on subframe pins & alignment but the symptoms didn't really match.

Second Note: RockAuto did not hesitate to make good on the Monroe Lifetime warranty for this strut. They're some of the good guys along with my local NAPA folks.

Buried in this caliper issue had to do with the grease being used on the caliper guide pins. It appears that the regenerative braking heats up calipers far more than I have ever seen on any other car. So I obtained some really high temperature caliper grease.

The previous grease would burn up & coke on the guide pins causing the calipers to mis-align. So when you rebuild calipers or change brake pads use a really high temp grease on the guide pins such as:
Permatex "Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant" (Item #24125).

This caliper lube may seem to be overkill as its rated to 3000ºF, but it's not that expensive (an 8 oz bottle was maybe $15...) and that one bottle amounts to a lifetime supply for me.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

PS While I'm noting those folks that were the good guys in helping me.

SilverStateFordparts.com which is Gaudin Ford in Nevada worked with me identifying engine mounts and such. There were very responsive, courteous, and just plain helpful.
Their prices are among the best I can find on the internet. You'll see an entry like this on the MECS pump discussion.

So they're some of the good guys too.

www.silverstatefordparts.com

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

Bill, thank you for taking the time to document and share this fix with us. I think I will eventually have to replace my struts, as my clunking is just as mysterious. I second Rock auto as a parts source as they have warrantied two sets of Moog stabilizer links for me (even though the second one was probably a bad call on my part.) I'll buy strut assemblies frorm them. The whole assembly with spring and mount is only $150 for Moog premium grade.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

I think the Monroe's were like $127 & change...

Part of my quandary in fixing things was I just couldn't see anything wrong with the strut and just couldn't reason through how it could have been bad. After I got the ChassisEar I very quickly had evidence that the strut was bad... and didn't believe it.

Essentially the loudest knocking sounds were on the mid-strut sway bar link attach point. Other places sounded distant, maybe not muffled, just not as sharp & clear as the strut mid-point. ...And because I couldn't reason through how the strut itself could be bad, I went on to other things.

I was writing down what I did at each step and a couple of weeks ago did a Sunday Night Football game read it all over again and see what pops out. The answer was then clear: the knocking was always loudest and sharpest on the strut. So I replaced it and guess what...

One can only say: "Duh-uh... why didn't I think of that sooner?"

PS The return UPS charge that you get through the RockAuto website was only $10.31 so in effect I'll get most of my money back on this one.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

Rock Auto just made good on the return credit. I was pretty sure they would after all of the troubleshooting I did before asking to return it. Still there are some companies out there who make life difficult.

Rock Auto is not one of those bad guys.

Rock Auto is one of the good guys. Well done.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

A follow up on my clunk problem.

After exhausting all the usual causes of clunk, notably the sway bar links, and having an independent mechanic look in vain for a solution, I replaced the front struts with Monroe Quick Struts. This was a piece of cake job. If I hadn't had to also replace a (second) cracked tone ring (thanks Ford), I could have done the job in an hour. With the assemblies, you just unbolt eight bolts and a brake clip and swap them out.

Monroe has a $90 rebate on struts + shocks right now, so I also bought rear shocks and did them at the same time and came out ahead $30.

The constant clunking is gone. On big pot holes I still have a deep thunk noise, which may have always been there - in any case I can live with it.

Bottom line - mechanic's estimate - $1000, my actual cost after rebate - about $250.

While I was under there I noticed the replacement Walker flex pipe has shed the entire stainless woven mesh on the pipe, so that is next. :(

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

Thanks for the report. You know, I think the noise I'm getting is the front struts. They have that persistent rattling noise like loose shocks. The noise is not there on smooth roads, but rattles even with tiny bumps like formed lines in poured concrete. Rough gravel roads produce a symphony of rattles. The noise seems to be coming from the dashboard, but the strut towers are pretty close to the dash. I was thinking it was the tie rod ends, but the struts are far more likely. Hmm, a visit to the mechanic is in order.

One nice thing about equipping a car with Monroe shocks/struts and keeping a car for a long time, is that you can get a replacement pair for free when they eventually wear out. But be sure to keep proper documentation of the purchase. I had to fight for months one time to get the warranty covered.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

I buy from Rock Auto. They keep a record of all your purchases.

Re: 2005 FEH 100,000 mile report
 

Our very first FEH was a retired illinois state car with 170000 miles. It looked nice and ran well so we bid on the auction and won! 5500 bucks😄😄. So we have had it 2 years and it just broke 200k! This little SUV sold me on the FEH. I learned about the blend door after a couple of shut downs and I put brakes and tires on it. It is a BEAST!!!!! Solid, sound and drives like it has 70k miles. That led to another auction purchase out of Wisconsin for another exact copy 2008 green fwd FEH for 5500 with only 110k miles, it needed nothing and we drove it for 4 months until my youngest driver rolled it into a ditch. But the silver lining is, airbags!!!! She didn't have a scratch on her! So we bought a 2006 4wd with 70k miles that had the notorious left rear wheel well rust issue on the shock mount for 4450 and I bought a welder and learned how to weld and repaired it. My oldest got that one and absolutely loves it, and the 32mpgs!!!!! And I just bought an 09 that I'm currently having some issues with but yeah, I love this FEHs!