one of the negatives that i did not like about my 2009 FEH is something called automatic temperature control. and the reason is that i knew that the
blend door actuators for them are 2 to 3 times more than if it was built with manual temperature control.
up in the dash with the radio display is 2 temperature displays - one on the upper left for the driver and one on the upper right for the passenger;
turning the **** counterclockwise will decrease the temperature displayed and turning to the right increases the temperature.
there is one **** for the drivers side and one for the passenger's side. between them is a middle **** for fan speed.
i put mine at 60 degrees but did not drive it much in the heat of the summer here in austin tx; and my ac is not up to par anyway.
well this is for the 2009 but i know you have the 2011.
AND, that was a Gem of a deal..

 

Thanks for the notes. I'll play it with it some, and then dig out my gauges. Presumably it has an electric compressor, so surely there are new things to learn for that, too!

 

Curious as to whether tposs001 got his supply working.

Mine didn't complain about running open circuit. Didn't try shorting it...but the spec sheet says it fully short-circuit protected (which it should be...).

So, that leaves mis-wiring. 3-prong plug is easy: green to ground lug. Brown to line lug - gold. Blue to neutral - silver lug.

DC out is brown to positive with diode in series, stripe toward the battery pack. Blue goes to negative. Pic in the intro post is pretty good, I double-checked voltage at the diode splice before buttoning it up just to be sure.

Here's my charger...didn't snapshot the mating half with the diodes inside the case. I used a grommet and super-sticking weatherstrip adhesive I had handy for the egress.

 

I would like to Thank everyone that has posted in this thread I used everyone’s knowledge to fix my Escape I installed a pigtail for future problems and built a charger using a Mean Well HLG-120H-C350A led power supply with a repurposed power cord from a computer a 30amp fuse on the battery pigtail and a few XT90 Lipo Battery connectors the battery only had 180V I charged it for 4hrs and then checked the HV Battery it now has 342.4.
Then after 8 months or more of owning this Vehicle I hit the ignition switch and nothing 😒.
I forgot to reinstall the High Voltage Service Disconnect 🤦‍♂️. Reinstalled and then 🎆🎇 we have lift off 🖌.

 

Two things:
- I have a 2010 FEH with a no-start issue (no magic pushbutton). I am set up using the "S Keith Bifurcation" to charge/discharge HV battery and to read voltage directly. Am wondering when is voltage too low for starting? -

 

Bifurcation? Please elaborate.

I have seen start attempts with voltages as low as 280V.

More important is inputting a known amount of capacity into the battery. A deeply discharged battery may have "junk capacity" needs to be input to bring it to "empty." Per the HV Jump Start thread, 4 hours of charging is recommended.

This ensures roughly 25% of capacity is input into the battery. The first 10% of capacity input may go to restoring the cells to normal function and not be usable as capacity, so a 4 hour charge should input about 15% of rated capacity into the battery.

This is more important that voltage. Discharged cells can be very sluggish and have abnormally high resistance. Even a small amount of charging may cause the voltage to increase notably before the voltage actually pulls back to a normal level. A battery in this state is not equipped to reliably start the ICE.

 

Sorry S Keith, I was just being cute with "bifurcation" which means a branching out or splitting into two. I was referring to your design for installing pigtails at the interlock relay to access the HV battery. I have used your technique a couple of times with success, but have not been able to get my 2010 FEH started. I have charged the battery and it is settled around 347V. I'm going to reread the HV Jump Start Thread and see if I've charged the battery properly.

Before using your technique to charge battery I took the car to the dealer who charged me about $800 for totally bogus work. They did not have a way to charge the battery nor did they have any means to check the battery condition. In fact, it was fairly obvious that they did not know how to accurately determine the battery condition. I have not been able to find any technician around here (Charlottesville, Va,) who are able to check the battery condition.

I've been looking at the traction motor current draw for several FEHs when I floor the gas pedal while driving on a test stretch of highway. I can usually get 140-150 amps briefly and I figure that indicates the battery is working okay. Not very scientific, but do you think that is a rough indication that battery is doing its' job?

 

I know what it means, and I was concerned that you were attempting to charge half the pack at a time, which I don't generally support.

347V is more than sufficient.

Does Forscan report any codes?

What is the DEL_MOD_V value?

Have you confirmed you're getting fuel at the rail?