Originally Posted by Billyk (Post 214854)

This is a scanguage xguage photo of a normal working traction motor blend door of a 4WD vehicle.

Originally Posted by stevedebi (Post 214883)

I would think that the code would be the same for FWD as AWD... or do you know differently?

Originally Posted by Billyk (Post 214915)

I hope everyone realizes this information is from Carl (Desert Dog) and not from me. For the 4wd version TXD 076xxxx is used instead of 045xxx.

Try it and report back on the findings.

Originally Posted by Stranger (Post 225518)

When blend door should be opened? My door have newer been opened during 5 year of operation. Air circulating in closed loop through air cond. evaporator when it is hot.
Recently I had a/c problem and driving with hot battery frequently checking that door with running engine and battery's fans, door was always closed. After replacing of a/c condenser and recharging system my battery is cold and door closed again. So what for this door?

Originally Posted by travelover (Post 227701)

I've been getting the wrench light on and off for a couple of months now, so I decided to change out the blend door actuator on my 2007 FEH.

Here are a few hints for anyone doing it themselves. The Ford part number is 8L8Z 19E616E or Motorcraft # YH1750. I bought mine at Rock Auto, $20 delivered.

When removing the large plastic rear quarter panel trim piece, there is a push pin located on the rear of the rear door scuff plate. You need to pop open this trap door and release the push pin to release the big trim panel. I also had a difficult time getting access to the top, outboard screw that holds in the actuator. I ended up removing the steel bracket that mounts on the D pillar. There is a bolt up under the headliner that must be removed - tricky to get to. Once the bracket was removed, I was able to tilt the whole assembly a little farther inboard and access the last actuator bolt with a small box end ignition wrench.

Total time was about 1.5 hours start to finish.

I took the old actuator apart to see if there was an obvious failure mode, but all I saw that looked suspicious were the little spring steel brushes that rotate with the gear to keep it from over rotating. They must wear out and lose contact periodically. This would explain the on again, off again nature of the problem. Poor design.

Originally Posted by Matt D (Post 230202)

I have to do the change on mine. Did you re-flash the BCM?

Originally Posted by corski67 (Post 232410)

I recently completed this job. It's not a difficult job. I've documented the job with pictures. To view a slide show go to the link:
https://picasaweb.google.com/Familyc...JSRx9DckszaDw#

If you'd like a document that you can print, email me at corski67@hotmail.com and I'll send you a word document with the whole progression with instructions.

-Corey

Originally Posted by guerinkeywest (Post 240696)

Originally Posted by tommyball (Post 247350)

I think I may have to take on this repair soon. My '08 is giving me the wrench light.

I wanted to ask about the step instructing you to reprogram the TBCM. Travelover mentioned not doing it. For others here, was that just skipped?

Thanks,
T

Originally Posted by tommyball (Post 247359)

Thanks!

Wow that much of an MPG boost? Mine has dropped, but I assumed it was due to a number of other factors.

Originally Posted by tommyball (Post 247372)

Wow. Good to know.

I always got an MPG of 28-30, but in the past several months its been about 26, all based on the Gas Cubby iPhone app.

In that time I've bought new tires, replaced the MECs pump and moved from MD to TX where my weekly commute is almost 175 miles less. I figured between the tires, roads, possibly different fuel mix and a 6 mile drive to work with heavy AC use, I was getting a drop.

I ordered the actuator from Ford Parts Giant. So hopefully I can tackle that installation (it doesn't look any worse than replacing 4 speakers and the OEM stereo) and get rid of the wrench light and reclaim a few MPG.

Thanks!
-t.

Originally Posted by stevedebi (Post 247373)

Actually, that short commute is most likely the culprit.

Originally Posted by GaryG (Post 247374)

My blend door light came On for 40,000 miles till I sold my '05. It never affected my MPG at all. The shorter commute, coolant pump, and the new tires are most likely the cause of the lower MPG.

GaryG

Originally Posted by tommyball (Post 247477)

How would the coolant pump effect MPG? Because it's a new part that needs breaking in?

-t

Originally Posted by tommyball (Post 247477)

How would the coolant pump effect MPG? Because it's a new part that needs breaking in?

-t

Originally Posted by GaryG (Post 247480)

No, when the electronics get hot, you don't go EV. This will drop your MPG because the engine is running more.

GaryG